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Old 07-14-2014, 12:33 AM
cn90 cn90 is offline
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DIY: 2006 BMW X5 3.0i: Front/Rear Diff, MT, Transfer Case Fluids

DIY: 2006 BMW X5 3.0i: Front/Rear Diff, MT, Transfer Case Fluids
The E53 is now at 115K miles. Time for Fluid Changes…


PARTS/TOOLS:

* The capacity is approximate and I did my best to estimate it.

* Front Diff ~ 0.7L, Redline 75W90 Fluid, 14-mm Hex type; Drain/Fill bolts have O-ring.

* Rear Diff ~ 1.5L, Redline 75W90 Fluid, 14-mm Hex type; Drain/Fill bolts have O-ring.

* Man Trans ~ 1.7L, Redline MT-90 Fluid, 8-mm Hex type.

* Transfer Case ~ 0.8L, BMW Fluid PN 83220397244, about $40/qt at local BMW dealer. It is GL-4 fluid but proprietary juice, so you are stuck with this juice! Drain/Fill bolts: 16-mm with washers. I re-used the washers.

* Make sure you mark the Hex key with Sharpie at let’s say 1cm deep, this way you know the hex key is fully inserted into the bolts to avoid stripping it! Clean the inside of the Hex Fill/Drain Bolts to allow the hex key to be fully inserted.

* You need an Iron Pipe for added leverage on the ratchet.






For those who are new to BMW X-drive, this is what it looks like:






* You can do gravity fill but you need long hose. A friend told me to use the Suction Gun ($15 at auto parts store), so I gave it a try, it actually worked great.
- Avoid the "Pump Tool" because it tends to fall apart after a few uses. So best is to use "Suction Gun".
- When using "Suction Gun", after sucking the fluid, plug the end with your finger to prevent spill. Make sure you have cardboard, newspaper to absorb the spill on the driveway.
- Pay attention to what system you are filling, making sure you fill with the correct fluid. It is very easy to get distracted and fill with incorrect fluid.
- Make sure you can undo the FILL bolt before removing the DRAIN bolt for obvious reasons!
- Fill the fluid until it drips out of the FILL hole, then install the FILL bolt.


PROCEDURE:

1. Car on wood ramps on level surface, in 1st Gear (or Park for those with A.T.); apply Parking Brake.
Chock the wheels if possible.






2. The PLASTIC SHIELD is held by these bolts, screws, pay attention to which is which!






3. The METAL SHIELD: you must re-install it once done!!!
- This is because the Swaybar Endlink is held down by the same 16-mm bolts/nuts.
- You need to counter-hold the nut while undoing the 16-mm bolts.
- If you decide to leave the METAL SHIELD out to monitor fluid leak, I am thinking using some big washers and re-install the 6 bolts/nuts.-
- Support the METAL SHIELD with a jack, then lower it to the ground.










4. I do the FRONT and REAR Diff together because it is the same fluid.
- You will need a 14-mm Hex socket. I used 1/2-inch ratchet with Iron Pipe for extra leverage. Again, make sure the Hex key is fully inserted.
- Clean the inside of the Drain/Fill plugs to be sure the socket is fully seated before undoing or tightening it. Failure to do so can result to stripping the Hex head!
- Mark the 14-mm Hex socket with Sharpie so you know it is fully seated before loosening or tightening it!

Front Diff:






Rear Diff, fluid still golden color at 115K miles:









5. Man Trans ---> 8-mm Hex:









6. Transfer Case is a challenge because the FILL bolt was very very tight. I almost stripped it!
I had to use a Propane Torch to heat the FILL bolt for a good minute (keep flame away from the White Plastic Cup nearby!). Then the FILL bolt came loose.






That is all boys and girls, routine maintenance goes a long way. Not sure if these fluid changes prolong the life of these parts but what the heck, they recommend these fluid changes at 100K anyway.



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2006 E53 X5 3.0 6sp MT
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