Quote:
Originally Posted by Doru
To help the CCV last longer, and also the engine, while using the OE CCV setup, here is what I do (we have really long & cold winters):
- Once the temps drop below freezing have a cardboard placed in front of the radiator
- After the car is started, turn the heating off, turn Test #7 on to see the KTMP. Drive until the KTMP reaches 85°C (or better, if you can hold on). KTMP will climb really fast with the heater core turned off. Once you have more than 85°C, you can turn on the cabin heat. You will see a 10°C sudden temp drop (or better), but the bulk of coolant reached higher temps, and it will warm up really fast
- have the vehicle garaged at all times if you can help it during the cold months. I have a garage, and at work it's parked in an underground parkade, which helps a lot.
I'm on the same cold climate CCV (including re-designed dipstick guide) since February 2008. I will prolly need a new kit soon (preventative) - I don't think that rubber membrane of the CCV lasts forever. But only 2 or 3 years out of a CCV is too short. |
Dorin THANK YOU for chiming in here, I know you know this engine very well, and I also suspected Gary @ GAS was stalling his project because of issues related to crankcase vaccuum as well. 2 very good tips for winter btw!
I will have to think about the cardboard in front of radiator or at least turning off the cabin heat until the coolant is warm, great idea (the latter I probably will do for sure). I also agree that if you are running on 6 years on the OEM cold weather CCV then that is good lifespan, my valve just might be original on my car so it is way overdue for replacement, but I think the key here is if you do the OEM CCV cold weather kit, don't forget the cold weather dipstick tube, as many do forget about it!