| Disassembly |
Step 1: |
Loosen strut bolts |
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with a 19mm socket, remove the wheel.
Open the hood.
On
each strut tower is a round black plastic dust cap. Simply pop the dust
cap out to remove. Use a flat blade screw driver to pry it out if you
have to. I was able to pull it out with my fingers.
With a 4mm allen socket remove the small silver alignmnet pin.
With
a 13mm socket, loosen the 3 nuts that secure the strut. Do not remove
them completely. We backed them out till they were flush with the bolt
thread on top.
This will give you some manuevering room to move the bottom of the strut free.
Work only on one side at a time. If you are on the driver side (LEFT side - USA SPEC), skip to Step 2.
On the passenger side (RIGHT side - USA SPEC) you will have to move the windsheild washer resevoir.
With a 10mm socket, remove the 2 black plastic nuts that hold the windshield washer resevoir on the strut tower.
Pick up the resevoir and sit it on the engine valve cover as best you can without spilling it.
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Step 2: |
Unclip hoses |
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Pull the rubber hose grommets out of the brackets
there are 3 on the LEFT side (driver's side) and 2 on the RIGHT side.
the brake line has a square locking clip, just pull this out.
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| Step 3: | Disconnect Sway End Link |
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Use a 18mm wrench inbetween the end link's rubber bushing and the strut backet.
This
bushing nut is only flat on 2 sides. Usually your wrench should be
vertical and parallel to the strut or near there somewhere...
Use a 18mm socket to remove the end link nut.
You may have to use a break bar. We used an impact wrench air gun.
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| Step 4: | Remove the 2 bolts holding the strut to the hub |
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Use a 22mm wrench or 2 sets of 22mm sockets and rachet and break break bar to remove the lower strut bolts.
They are very tight, torque of 150 ft-lb so a breaker bar is necessary.
The upper bolt holds the hose bracket, remove this bracket and remember where it goes.
We used the air impact wrench again and had an easy time removing these bolts.
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| Step 5: | Remove the strut from the car |
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Use something to support the hub so the brake lines aren't stretched/damaged. They cannot hang free.
We used 5 gallon buckets upside down to support them.
While supporting the strut, remove the top 3 13mm nuts to release the strut from the tower.
These are the only things holding its weight right now. Becareful as it is heavy.
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| Step 6: | Compress the springs |
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Different types of spring compressors have different instructions. Be sure to follow the directions from your kit.
Compress the springs so that they are no longer touching the top strut hat
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| Step 7: | Remove the strut hat |
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Before you remove it, count
how many threads are showing so you know how much to bolt it back down
later. On mine it was 2.5-3 threads showing above the nut.
We used the air impact gun again here so we didn't need the allend socket or deep offset 21mm wrench.
We used a 21mm socket with the impact gun and just shot it out.
Otherwise,
you will need to use the Deep Offset 21mm wrench and an allen socket (I
don't know what size since we didn't go this route).
The allen socket holds the strut rod in place while you turn the 21mm nut to remove it.
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| Step 8: | Examine the strut hat |
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Not that there is anything special here, but just remember how it goes back on...
There are no bearings inside to turn or rotate
The bushing is rubber.
There is only 3 parts to this assembly: the 21mm nut, the washer and the whole top hat.
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| Step 9: | Press out the studs from the strut hat |
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Use a socket on the back of
the strut hat that has an opening larger then the back of the silver
stud. We used a bevelled 13mm impact socket.
Use a 6" C-Clamp and compress the stud out of the strut hat into the opening of the socket.
It took only 2 turns to do this. Very easy. There is a loud pop tho...
Once out of the strut hat, everything falls down as there is no pressure on the C-Clamp anymore.
Repeat for all 3 studs.
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| Assembly |
| Step 10: | Install the Rogue Engineering Camber Plates onto the strut hat |
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Locate the alignment pin hole on the stock strut hat.
Position
the Rogue Engineering Camber so that the LEFT or RIGHT imprint is over
that alignment pin and then turn forward towards the front till the
holes line up.
Use the supplied 5mm flat bolts and nuts to secure the Rogue Engineering Camber Plate onto the strut hat
Use Red LocTite on the bolt. just a small dap on the threads will prevent vibrations and such from loosening the bolt.
Use a 13mm socket and rachet to hold the hold while you use the 5mm allen socket and a torque wrench to tighten the bolt.
tighten to 13 ft-lb.
Repeat for all 3 bolts.
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| Step 11: | Reinstall the strut hat onto the strut |
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Place the assembled strut hat onto the strut with the springs still compressed.
Place the washer onto the strut hat
Thread the 21mm nut onto the strut rod
We used the impact gun again and shot the nut down to 2.5-3 threads showing above the nut.
If
you used the allen socket and the 21mm deep offset wrench, then you
will have to turn the nut back down to where you noted the thread count
above your nut before you removed it.
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| Step 12: | Insert the assembled strut into the strut tower |
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From underneath, insert the strut into the strut tower.
Ensure that the camber plate's engraved arrow points to the front of the car
Ensure that the LEFT or RIGHT engraved writing is on the correct side of the car and points to the outside of the car.
Finger tighten the 3 13mm strut nuts on top to hold the strut in place.
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| Step 13: | Install the 2 lower strut bolts to the hub |
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Tilt the hub back up and onto the strut and align the holes.
Put the 22mm bolt through the bottom to hold the it together.
Put the hose bracket on the top 22mm bolt and insert into the top hole
Put the 22mm nuts onto the bolts.
tighten to 150 ft-lb torque on both these 22mm bolts.
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| Step 14: | Install Sway Bar End Link |
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Insert the bolt from the sway bar end link into the bracket on the strut body.
Use the 18mm wrench to align the nut between the bushing and the bracket to be near vertical and parallel with the strut body
Put the 18mm nut on the bolt and secure the end link
Tighten to 74 ft-lb torque.
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| Step 15: | Clip in the hoses |
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Clip the rubber grommets from the hoses back into the brackets
Use the square locking clip to secure the brake line back into it's bracket.
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| Step 15: | Set the top strut nuts |
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For maximum camber, slide the top of the strut to the center of the car by pushing on the strut body.
tighten the top 3 13mm strut nuts to 18 ft-lb
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| Step 16: | Install the round dust cap |
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Pop the round black dust cap back onto the strut tower hole.
If
this is the RIGHT side (Passenger side - USA SPEC), place the
windshield resevoir back into the 2 bolts and use a 10mm socket to
secure the 2 black 10mm nuts to hand tight.
Do not over tighten these as they are plastic nuts. Just hand tight is good.
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| All Done | Wrapping Up |
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Once done, install your wheels and torque them to 101 ft-lb. Now
perform the same steps on the other side to complete the installation.
You will have these parts left over:
Remember to get your car aligned. At least a front end
alignment. Since we increased negative camber, expect your car to have
increased in toe out.
Enjoy your better aligned X5!
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01-09-2006, 11:05 AM
Linear Mode
