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Old 01-09-2006, 11:05 AM
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Rogue Engineering Camber Plates for the BMW E53 X5

Contributed by: hayaku





Rogue Engineering Camber Plates
for the BMW E53 X5








by hayaku for xoutpost.com





Scope:

This DIY article will address how to install a set of Rogue Engineering
Camber Plates into an E53 X5 with the macpherson front suspension (not
for air suspension equiped X5's produced in 2004+).



Subject used was my wife's 2002 E53 X5 4.4 with sport suspension.
Rogue Engineering reports that this camber plate will fit all X5's from
2000-2003. However, if you have a 2004+ model with the normal
macpherson front suspensions, this will fit also.



After the installation of these plates, your car's alignment will
be out of spec and will require an alignment. The steps to perform an
alignment will not be covered in this article, although we did perform
one on this car immediately after installation. Please take your
vehicle to a qualified alignment shop after you have installed these
plates. It is quite safe to drive after installation to the alignment
shop, chances are you only have a little toe out up front.



Effort Required:

Skill Difficulty: 6 out of 10.

Strongly recommend having 2 people performing the tasks.


Much THANKS goes to my crew, Zivago Lee and Danny Lee, for the
assistance while my right wrist was suffering from severe tendonitis
and a possible fracture. They actually performed most of the work while
I took pictures in this session.


Time Required: 2+ hours depending on experience.




Disclaimer:
This is what worked for me. If you
are not sure nor comfortable doing any of these steps, please DO NOT
attempt to perform this procedure. Rather take your vehicle to a
qualified mechanic for the work to be done. Do not take your vehicle to
a friend that does not understand this document either (2 confused
minds will not make it better). You cannot hold X5World nor me
responsible for any damages YOU may have caused on YOUR vehicle (we
weren't there and didn't do any of it, thats the story and I'm sticking
to it). But seriously, it ain't all that hard to do.



This is what I promptly received in the mail after my conversation with Rogue Engineering.










































Rogue Engineering Camber Plates































































Tools Required:
10mm socket

13mm socket

18mm socket

l9mm socket

21mm socket

22mm socket

13mm 1/2" bevelled impact socket of similiar

4mm allen socket or allen key

5mm allen socket

rachet with various extensions(3" and 6")

break bar

low range torque wrench, usually in 3/8" drive

high range torque wrench, usually in 1/2" drive

18mm wrench

22mm wrench or a second set of 22mm socket and rachet

6" C-Clamp

strut spring compressor (Usually a free rental from Autozone/Pepboys)

Optional Tools:
Air Compressor and Impact Wrench

21mm Deep Offset box end wrench

flat blade screw driver

Flashlight

work gloves





You will obvious need to lift the vehicle. You can lift one corner
at a time as you work or you can lift the entire front end. You do not
need to lift the back end at all. You can use any hydraulic jack with
jackstands or even the scissor jack in your trunk. This article will
not cover how you lift your vehicle but if you need more instructions
on how to lift your X5, please submit a request on the forum at
www.xoutpost.com.


What ever you do, PLEASE do not work with a hydraulic jack alone/without jackstands!
You cannot depend on a simple rubber seal to hold the weight of any car
up safely as you work underneath it. Please use jackstands to securely
and safely hold the vehicle up.






























































































































































































































































































































































































































































































































































































































Disassembly
Step 1: Loosen strut bolts




with a 19mm socket, remove the wheel.



Open the hood.



On

each strut tower is a round black plastic dust cap. Simply pop the dust
cap out to remove. Use a flat blade screw driver to pry it out if you
have to. I was able to pull it out with my fingers.

With a 4mm allen socket remove the small silver alignmnet pin.



With

a 13mm socket, loosen the 3 nuts that secure the strut. Do not remove
them completely. We backed them out till they were flush with the bolt
thread on top.

This will give you some manuevering room to move the bottom of the strut free.









Work only on one side at a time. If you are on the driver side (LEFT side - USA SPEC), skip to Step 2.



On the passenger side (RIGHT side - USA SPEC) you will have to move the windsheild washer resevoir.



With a 10mm socket, remove the 2 black plastic nuts that hold the windshield washer resevoir on the strut tower.



Pick up the resevoir and sit it on the engine valve cover as best you can without spilling it.



























Step 2: Unclip hoses


Pull the rubber hose grommets out of the brackets



there are 3 on the LEFT side (driver's side) and 2 on the RIGHT side.



the brake line has a square locking clip, just pull this out.

























Step 3:Disconnect Sway End Link


Use a 18mm wrench inbetween the end link's rubber bushing and the strut backet.



This

bushing nut is only flat on 2 sides. Usually your wrench should be
vertical and parallel to the strut or near there somewhere...

Use a 18mm socket to remove the end link nut.



You may have to use a break bar. We used an impact wrench air gun.



























Step 4:Remove the 2 bolts holding the strut to the hub


Use a 22mm wrench or 2 sets of 22mm sockets and rachet and break break bar to remove the lower strut bolts.



They are very tight, torque of 150 ft-lb so a breaker bar is necessary.



The upper bolt holds the hose bracket, remove this bracket and remember where it goes.



We used the air impact wrench again and had an easy time removing these bolts.



























Step 5:Remove the strut from the car


Use something to support the hub so the brake lines aren't stretched/damaged. They cannot hang free.



We used 5 gallon buckets upside down to support them.



While supporting the strut, remove the top 3 13mm nuts to release the strut from the tower.



These are the only things holding its weight right now. Becareful as it is heavy.


























Step 6:Compress the springs


Different types of spring compressors have different instructions. Be sure to follow the directions from your kit.



Compress the springs so that they are no longer touching the top strut hat


























Step 7:Remove the strut hat


Before you remove it, count

how many threads are showing so you know how much to bolt it back down
later. On mine it was 2.5-3 threads showing above the nut.

We used the air impact gun again here so we didn't need the allend socket or deep offset 21mm wrench.



We used a 21mm socket with the impact gun and just shot it out.



Otherwise,

you will need to use the Deep Offset 21mm wrench and an allen socket (I
don't know what size since we didn't go this route).

The allen socket holds the strut rod in place while you turn the 21mm nut to remove it.


























Step 8:Examine the strut hat


Not that there is anything special here, but just remember how it goes back on...



There are no bearings inside to turn or rotate



The bushing is rubber.



There is only 3 parts to this assembly: the 21mm nut, the washer and the whole top hat.


























Step 9:Press out the studs from the strut hat


Use a socket on the back of

the strut hat that has an opening larger then the back of the silver
stud. We used a bevelled 13mm impact socket.

Use a 6" C-Clamp and compress the stud out of the strut hat into the opening of the socket.



It took only 2 turns to do this. Very easy. There is a loud pop tho...



Once out of the strut hat, everything falls down as there is no pressure on the C-Clamp anymore.



Repeat for all 3 studs.




























Assembly
Step 10:Install the Rogue Engineering Camber Plates onto the strut hat


Locate the alignment pin hole on the stock strut hat.



Position

the Rogue Engineering Camber so that the LEFT or RIGHT imprint is over
that alignment pin and then turn forward towards the front till the
holes line up.

Use the supplied 5mm flat bolts and nuts to secure the Rogue Engineering Camber Plate onto the strut hat



Use Red LocTite on the bolt. just a small dap on the threads will prevent vibrations and such from loosening the bolt.



Use a 13mm socket and rachet to hold the hold while you use the 5mm allen socket and a torque wrench to tighten the bolt.



tighten to 13 ft-lb.



Repeat for all 3 bolts.


























Step 11:Reinstall the strut hat onto the strut


Place the assembled strut hat onto the strut with the springs still compressed.



Place the washer onto the strut hat



Thread the 21mm nut onto the strut rod



We used the impact gun again and shot the nut down to 2.5-3 threads showing above the nut.



If

you used the allen socket and the 21mm deep offset wrench, then you
will have to turn the nut back down to where you noted the thread count
above your nut before you removed it.

























Step 12:Insert the assembled strut into the strut tower


From underneath, insert the strut into the strut tower.



Ensure that the camber plate's engraved arrow points to the front of the car



Ensure that the LEFT or RIGHT engraved writing is on the correct side of the car and points to the outside of the car.



Finger tighten the 3 13mm strut nuts on top to hold the strut in place.


























Step 13:Install the 2 lower strut bolts to the hub


Tilt the hub back up and onto the strut and align the holes.



Put the 22mm bolt through the bottom to hold the it together.



Put the hose bracket on the top 22mm bolt and insert into the top hole



Put the 22mm nuts onto the bolts.



tighten to 150 ft-lb torque on both these 22mm bolts.


























Step 14:Install Sway Bar End Link


Insert the bolt from the sway bar end link into the bracket on the strut body.



Use the 18mm wrench to align the nut between the bushing and the bracket to be near vertical and parallel with the strut body



Put the 18mm nut on the bolt and secure the end link



Tighten to 74 ft-lb torque.



























Step 15:Clip in the hoses


Clip the rubber grommets from the hoses back into the brackets



Use the square locking clip to secure the brake line back into it's bracket.


























Step 15:Set the top strut nuts


For maximum camber, slide the top of the strut to the center of the car by pushing on the strut body.



tighten the top 3 13mm strut nuts to 18 ft-lb


























Step 16:Install the round dust cap


Pop the round black dust cap back onto the strut tower hole.






If

this is the RIGHT side (Passenger side - USA SPEC), place the
windshield resevoir back into the 2 bolts and use a 10mm socket to
secure the 2 black 10mm nuts to hand tight.

Do not over tighten these as they are plastic nuts. Just hand tight is good.


























All DoneWrapping Up


Once done, install your wheels and torque them to 101 ft-lb. Now
perform the same steps on the other side to complete the installation.




You will have these parts left over:






















Remember to get your car aligned. At least a front end
alignment. Since we increased negative camber, expect your car to have
increased in toe out.


Enjoy your better aligned X5!






References:
Free Negative Camber for the E53 BMW X5
[reference]
BMW E53 X5 Camber Options

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