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  #31  
Old 05-04-2015, 10:19 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TiAgX5 View Post

I've avoided the sealants because some actually need to be wet sanded to remove if it's done wrong.
^^Wanted to correct you here as I think you are confusing sealants with coatings, 2 totally different things.

Coatings are actual additional layer of product (for example OptiCoat is a resin of sort) that cures to the surface and would need to be polished to be removed.

I'm speaking of sealants which are a liquid product that is applied like a traditional wax (thin layer), and it actually chemically cross-links to the paint, reduces surface tension and provides tons of slickness and gloss. Unlike wax which is a layer on top of the clear coat that is applied, polymer sealants basically form a hard shell and bond with the pores of the paint chemically, and don't "build up" like waxes. You will get a solid 6 months out of an application, be more dust repellant as well.

My 2 favorite liquid sealants are Menzerna Power Lock and Adam's Liquid Paint Sealant, I also used Sonax PNS, but due to the "non-slick" feel, although its extremely hydrophobic, that is now dedicated to wheels.

Adam's Liquid Paint Sealant | Sealants And Waxes | Paint Sealant

http://www.detailersdomain.com/Menze...-oz_p_323.html


And S, I'm working on getting my wash routine as efficient as you, just got myself an electric PW and working on getting a foam lance as well
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  #32  
Old 05-04-2015, 11:34 AM
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I use the Meguiars Quick Detailer to prolong time between wax jobs, seems to extend shine and help the surface release dirt.

I'm doing a total rethink of what products I need going forward with the pressure wash/foam lance cleaning.

I've always considered the "paint sealant" products as those that are applied, cure/dry and become bonded to the clearcoat.

Comprehensive Opti-Coat 2.0 Application Guide

All the products in this thread being called "paint sealers" are really nothing more then quick detailer products.
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  #33  
Old 05-04-2015, 11:53 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TiAgX5 View Post

All the products in this thread being called "paint sealers" are really nothing more then quick detailer products.
TiAg, I hate to break it to you but you are wrong again and there is some education to give you here.

Spray and wipe products like Meg's Quick Detailer is nothing more than a light cleaning agent along with a slight gloss enhancer, and perhaps a touch of spray wax.

If you look at the MSDS for Quick Detailer is is over 85% water, up to 5% each of prop and glycol ether (cleaning agents), and "conditioners" up to 2%. You are NOT sealing your paint with a cross-linking polymer and adding any protection by using a spray and wipe Quick Detailer.

Sure if you wash your car weekly and wipe it down with Quick Detailer weekly you can keep it looking and feeling slick for a few days, but you are not waxing or sealing the paint when you do so.


The products I linked to (Adams Liquid Paint Sealant and Menz Power Lock) are actual cross-linking polymer products which are applied as a liquid, they haze over in about 10-15 mins like a wax, and you wipe down any residues about an hour later.

Again the difference between wax and sealant is that the wax is actually ADDING a physical layer of protection on the clearcoat, because it is not chemically bonding, like a sealant would As a sealant cures on the surface it is chemically bonding to the paint (but NOT adding anything "on top"), which lasts for about 5-6 months depending on conditions and maintenance. Rain, washing, agitation, etc over the subsequent months will weaken the bond and eventually you will have to reapply.

However, products like Opti-Coat (the category is called COATINGS) are actual resins and other chemical products which ADD a layer of protection like wax, however it is significant, a few microns, and acts as more clear-coat for your vehicle's clear coat. It does bond to the paint but it is not absorbed chemically like a paint sealant.

Opti-Coat does dry/cure (as do other coatings), and adds additional microns to the clear coat. Liquid Paint Sealants dry/cure, but they do not add additional microns to the clear coat, do not need to be abraded to be removed, but offer a similar hydrophobic, slick, glossy, dirt/dust repellant surface that you would have with a traditional wax. However, the melting point of liquid sealants is in the 350F range, so unlike a traditional Carnauba wax which will melt off at 185-190F or so, your sealant will outlast that Zymol in the Texas sun/heat by about 3 to 1 in terms of longevity.

Did I confuse you yet?
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  #34  
Old 05-04-2015, 01:14 PM
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Looks as if I need to look into paint sealant products going forward.

I've measured the surface temp of the BMW TiAg paint in full TX sun at noon, always see mid 120s deg F. The carnuba has not been an issue on this color (applied every spring & fall).

Also measured the neighbors H2 & Vette (both black), almost 180 deg F. The Zymol would never last with those temps.
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  #35  
Old 05-04-2015, 01:16 PM
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Good to hear. Chemically yes polymer sealants are going to be more durable in regards to temps and chemical resistance and also higher temp resistance as well.

Looking forward to the foam lance review!
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  #36  
Old 05-04-2015, 01:24 PM
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Should have the foam lance on Wed, will use after the next series of rain showers (coming into N TX tomorrow, ending ?), with the Karcher Wash/Wax solution provided with the kit.

I will take pics and post here.

RB, are you planning to use the Karcher Pump Guard during storage between washes? It's primarily used as an anti-freeze for cold climates but also lubes valves/seats, prevents corrosion and prevents wear.

The bottle screws into the high pressure output (and remains there) it keeps the internals happy.
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Last edited by TiAgX5; 05-04-2015 at 01:32 PM.
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  #37  
Old 05-04-2015, 03:18 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TiAgX5 View Post
Should have the foam lance on Wed, will use after the next series of rain showers (coming into N TX tomorrow, ending ?), with the Karcher Wash/Wax solution provided with the kit.

I will take pics and post here.

RB, are you planning to use the Karcher Pump Guard during storage between washes? It's primarily used as an anti-freeze for cold climates but also lubes valves/seats, prevents corrosion and prevents wear.

The bottle screws into the high pressure output (and remains there) it keeps the internals happy.

I have the Ryobi from HD but should be similar maintenance. I'm of the mind that an ounce of prevention is worth a pound of cure. I bought a bottle of Pump Protector from HD on Saturday for $10, its a plastic bottle which screws on the inlet, you squeeze the bottle once attached with the PW off until you see some liquid come out the other end of the pump.

Seems cheap and easy to do after each use in order to maximize life of the pump.
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  #38  
Old 05-05-2015, 12:18 PM
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I'd choose UPGP or Hydr02 for a ~sealant~.

I prescribe to minimize the touching of the paint as much as possible, so for a application like that, I prefer a Wipe On Wipe Off sealant variant.
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  #39  
Old 05-05-2015, 01:25 PM
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Took a load of last hand wash pics.....
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  #40  
Old 05-10-2015, 09:46 AM
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Alright boys (soto and Tiag) I used the Turbo Tip on my Ryobi PW this weekend.

Was cleaning my 2003 Scag 52" commercial walk behind mower, I bought it over 3 years ago when we moved into our house, from a landscaper. Well maintained, but I haven't had a chance to PW under the deck to get the built up grass/grime out of there.

So I started out with the 15 degree fan tip, let me tell you, that was nothing but a high pressure rinse, it was going to take forever to remove stuff under the deck with it.

I popped on the Turbo Tip which came with the machine and let me tell you guys, its def a consumer grade tip, although its the most powerful one the machine comes with, you won't be stripping paint unless you are an idiot and put it 2" from the surface.

My wife held her hands about 20" away from the tip and washed her hands easily with it on the nozzle.

It did cut all the built up grass and grime under the deck, but I wanted to be extreme and I literally had the tip 1" or basically on the paint of the deck seeing if it would strip anything else besides the grime (i.e. start stripping metal on the deck) and it didn't.

Then I used it to wash the topside of my mower which is painted orange, again held it about a foot and a half back to 2 feet, and it wasn't harming the finish in any way.

I'd say if you are looking to go touchless, foam the vehicle, and use the consumer grade turbo tip with the machine if you have a machine rated under 1600-1700 psi.

No harm done on my mower, will use it on my wheels next wash to see just how touchless I can do those.


Either way, the PW makes a huge safe washing threshold, with a thorough rinsedown of the X with the 15 degree tip, honestly my wash mitts were probably 70% cleaner while actually soaping down the X, and Friday's wash was the first since the nasty NJ pollen season began, and prior to that it hadn't been washed in about 6 weeks.

If the theory is the more surface dirt/grime you remove off the surface in rinsing/pre-foaming the vehicle, before a mitt will ever touch the paint, the less things are left on there to actually be "wiped away" or rubbed on the paint. The electric PW is a phenomenal investment to do that.

Probably my second wash after our decently harsh cold winter, and the paint still looks shiny, unmarred, and glossy after my August 2014 paint correction. The electric PW is partially to thank for my good wash technique and ability to get a majority of grime off before I start the actual wash. About to clay, and go put a coat of sealant on there today.
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