CCV replacement 3.0l any tips or tricks!?

[RFaber]

Hello, Well, I had a cracked upper CCV hose (from valve cover to CCV) very easy to spot, not so easy to repair!! ended up using some heat shrink and it worked pretty well! but its not perfect!
Spent a few hours poking around in there, found that the lower hose from the CCV to the oil dipstick is also broken, and therefore leaking oil all over the steering rack etc. Any one ever done the job!? on a 3.0l X5?? Ive done a few on the E36, it was a bit of a bear, but not too bad, the E53 seems really tricky!!!! wondering if the intake does have to come off, despite urban legend that says otherwise!!
Maybe it was because it was a degree or two below freezing, or maybe it was that I couldn't get parts (Sunday) but I didn't want to pull the engine apart, only to have to tell my wife, its staying in the shop for the night!!
Are there any tips or tricks ?? does the intake need to come out?? I figure maybe the alternator comes out, maybe the oil filter housing, that would give a bit of access through the front.
I read through the Bentley manual, there was nothing specific regarding the CCV removal, just some general stuff about removing the intake, the air box, and subsequent hoses etc, the throttle body, the electrical "spider" under the intake etc.
I ended up changing the valve cover gasket, having a beer, and wiping some grease on my face then went in and warmed up!
ordering a hose for the lower ccv-dipstick today! hopefully all will go well!
Ive got a winter prepped CCV, as well as two of the hoses, (all insulated), I have ordered a lower ccv-dipstick hose.
There are a few CCV replacement instructions online, but they are for the 3 series cars, a different ball game as far as I can see!
or am I missing something obvious!?? (like access from the wheel well etc!)
thanx

[Ricky Bobby]

The more you remove the better obviously, the intake manifold does not have to come off in the least. You have to remove everything up to and including throttle body -

Dipstick tube/hose is done from under the car for the most part. I only moved the PS reservoir to the side, OFH, alternator stayed in the car, I also moved the big honking electrical box out of the way.

Unless you have gorilla hands, you should be able to get away with the job like that. First time took me 4 hours taking my time, going slow, and because I plugged something in wrong the first time and got it almost back to assembled before I had to take off the airbox again, and it took me about 15 mins to rotate the S-hose into position as you are placing it on the pipe blindly and its a tight fit, and a rotate to lock hose.

[RFaber]

I do have smaller gorilla style hands! Lol I cus engineers of Japanese cars a lot!! Lol thank for the tips! I might take a pile of pics and post my adventure!

[Kristophe]

Here is a link to an excellent DIY video from my new hero, aka "50skid", where he removes the intake manifold to R&R the CCV system. Granted its on an E46 but exact same engine (M54). He makes very good points during the process on why removing the intake manifold is the best way to tackle this job.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ZDP8Dma0nUs


If you browse his channel he also owns a 2001 E53 and he's done several DIY vids such as a transfer case remove/rebuild and steering rack and pump replace.

[cn90]

It is all in the forum, you have to search for it.

I wrote a CCV DIY recently, here you go:

http://www.xoutpost.com/bmw-sav-foru...-overhaul.html

[rhusbands]

Originally Posted by Kristophe

Here is a link to an excellent DIY video from my new hero, aka "50skid", where he removes the intake manifold to R&R the CCV system. Granted its on an E46 but exact same engine (M54). He makes very good points during the process on why removing the intake manifold is the best way to tackle this job.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ZDP8Dma0nUs


If you browse his channel he also owns a 2001 E53 and he's done several DIY vids such as a transfer case remove/rebuild and steering rack and pump replace.

I spent 11 hours struggling with a Valve Cover, Oil Filter Housing, and CCV change... I simply couldn't figure out how to get the hoses undone and the new CCV in place.

...Then, I found this video that suggested removing the air intake manifold... and HOLY CRAP! There is a ton of room!

On top of that, he recommends (and I do too) removing and replacing all the old vacuum tube while you have the top end stripped. The fuel hose is easier to remove from the drivers side wheel well before you remove the injector rail, and the parts above the injector rail are small and tedious, and prone to fall, so be CAREFUL!

Other than that, it's not a terribly hard job, just... fiddley. a lot of small parts and figuring out how best to manage the crazieness. but it does make sense once your elbow deep.

[RFaber]

Thanks, I think the intake will be coming out and I will give everything a good clean! (plus I had a nagging fuel lean condition that I want to source out!!!!) I like the sounds of new vacuum lines too! unless I get in there again, and I can make it work! then the intake stays!

[Joshdub]

I did it with the intake manifold in, but the oil filter housing removed. I also replaced the dipstick tube without ever getting under the car.

[RFaber]

Well, I tackled the CCV replacement today, took 4 hours, left the intake in place, removed the alternator, to provide some access for my gorilla hands! Since I installed a cold climate version (covered with insulation rubber) my install was a bit tricky. I found that in installed the hose on the upper part of the ccv to the back of the intake , first. before I secured the ccv. this way I was able to get the hose to connect, I say this calmly now, but I think the neighbour kids had some new word questions for their parents . It tool about 10 minutes of fidgeting to get the hose to connect to the ccv, then and only then did I connect it to the smaller vacuum line, and the intake hose nipple. moving on to the install of the ccv, two easy T40 coarse threaded screws, went in smoothly! next I threaded the upper pipe through, "I found it easier to remove the oil filter cap, to allow a tiny bit more room. I heated up the lower part of the hose (with the 45 degree bend, so it wouldn't snap! ( it was just hovering around the freezing mark today) once I had the lower part installed with two solid clicks, I attached it to the top of the valve cover. easy peasy!! then removing the dipstick, I found I had the old style, with the dual wall pipe. I tried to blow it out with my compressor, with no luck, completely full of solidified mayo! yuck!!! so I made some picks out of haywire, and was able to force them through with some degreaser etc, finally, success!! and no bad words!! lol, all cleaned up and a new o ring, (priceless tip!) it all goes back together, no drama no headaches. I did disconnect the battery (habit ) and so upon reconnecting it, I was met with the usual dsc, brake, and abs lights, (they go out after driving a few hundred feet) Im happy with my day, the x5 is all buttoned up, and its shower time for me, Well I go to lock the truck and NOTHING, no click no beep no nothing!! I hop back in, try the central door lock button, nothing, by then its getting darker, and I notice no lights inside. crap, try the key remote again, this time all I get is one click when I open the rear hatch, ok, so I check fuses, nothing, all good, the lower rear door wont open, crap, I remember reading about this, looks like my GEN III module might be toast. check the wipers, nothing, so, I have no locks, no wipers, and no interior lights, also no rear hatch opening.
Anyone ever get this before ??? Any thoughts?? or am I looking for a new GM III???
thanx!

[jfoj]

Check the battery terminal Voltage then check the Voltage at the under hood jumper post. They should be very close.

You may need to disconnect the battery again and touch the cable ends together for 30 seconds if the battery Voltage is good.

Had to laugh about heating the hose, I see you are in Canada.

I used to carry a hair dryer and inverter with me at times when replacing fuel pumps in the Winter where I had to get the hard plastic corrugated fuel line connected to the sender on some of the M5 and other models.

Sux to work in the cold, but you tend to work faster.