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  #31  
Old 07-25-2016, 06:01 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ricky Bobby View Post
We have a winner!

List is $584 - can you believe he tried to tell me parts dept said its $685? Luckily I had my homework done - Service Advisor apologized and said he wouldn't charge over list, he probably almost spit his coffee out when I asked him point blank just now on why they would price gouge me 15% over list price?

I think he said $937 installed is my total - so I think 2 hours of labor to R&R the alternator which is fine.

The additional "needs" are great though that he said the tech noted:

-Battery won't hold a charge (YOU THINK?) - I told him I'm sure it would once the alternator works, if it doesn't, I just bough this Bosch from Pep Boys in December and will swap it out (4 year warranty) - just for giggles, "how much is BMW battery?" - $387

-"Both front door handles are sticking/inoperable, recommend door carriers" I told him the passenger carrier is sitting on my shelf, and the drivers door is perfectly fine, but if some magic way it broke over the weekend while sitting in their parking lot, I'll get in through the rear doors and do that one as well next weekend -

I'm sure the biggest money maker for techs is the 1 hour of labor (2 hours book time I'm sure) for the door carrier or window regulator. Especially considering how much they were trying to mark the parts up for me.


Hey StephenVA, you seem to be a pretty knowledgeable charging system guy - what do you think the chance is that the Bosch AGM that I bought back in December is fried from driving it with the alternator dying on Saturday?
When my driver side handle broke, I just unlocked the door with my FOB and kept pressing the unlock button until the windows lowered themselves and reach in to open the door with the inside handle. This will only work if you get your X coded to open and close the windows and sun roof with the key fob.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=zIyZcAc9WTY
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  #32  
Old 07-25-2016, 09:23 PM
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RB, interestingly enough, according to the records from the previous owner, on my 03 3.0, dealer replaced alternator at 79k miles. The replacement unit (Bosch Reman) works just fine at close to 208k miles. Possibly bad batch of alternators on 03 models.
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  #33  
Old 07-25-2016, 10:18 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by StephenVA View Post
Most batteries will come back to life after a deep discharge and a slow recharge. The dealer has jumped started it already other wise they could not have tested the alt's out put as it needs to spin (ya think?). On the drive home the Alt will be charging at 100% to recharge the battery. 24 hrs on a slow 2-5 amp battery charger should bring the battery to full charge. If your not planning to driver her every day I would leave it on a trickle charger for an additional 24 just to make sure.

Quick test after charging to confirm the battery ability is to load test it for 15 secs with 150 amp draw (actually it should be the battery's 1/2 cold cranking amps rating but you will need one of these to do that) to pull away any "surface charge" and then wait a few mins and test with a volt meter.

The poor man's load test is simple, key on, accessories all on, headlamps, blower on high, radio, etc (don't forget the rear window defroster). Leave on for 20/30 seconds and then wait 15 seconds and test battery voltage. See Chart for actual battery state of charge.

Stephen she's on the charger now! Long fucking headache story to tell tomorrow but she's home.

I left it on 2A (I have 10 and 2 amp on my Schumacher) and "conventional" automatic setting (I have auto conventional, "auto maintenance free/deep cycle" and manual settings) and the conventional setting. Let me know if it should be on deep cycle but on the 1+ hour drive all seemed well in the charging system.
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  #34  
Old 07-26-2016, 11:19 AM
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Deep cycle setting is for marine type batteries. I would use the automatic setting unless the instructions recommend a particular setting for AGM batteries which some chargers do.

Completely discharging a battery can damage or destroy it (sulfation). Once the battery is fully charged, if it will, I would have it load tested at the place you bought it. That way you will know if it is OK. Some chargers have a load test setting.
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  #35  
Old 07-26-2016, 12:29 PM
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A 2 amp push is fine on automatic for a car battery over 24 hrs. Should be completely charged by then. The shumacher chargers only push until the draw requirements signal backs off so as not to over heat. The auto maintenance free setting should be fine also.

Easy enough to test the battery correctly. I always wonder how the counter clerks test an X5 battery with one of those quickie testers when the battery is buried under the rear floor.
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  #36  
Old 07-26-2016, 07:57 PM
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Look at it this way: $1100 = one months payment on a low optioned X3. It's the hassle factor that is always the worst when these things happen.
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  #37  
Old 07-26-2016, 09:37 PM
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Oh I'm fine with my $1100 tab for my alternator. Could have been worse.

Now I'm dealing with the dealerships asinine incompetence since they broke my drivers door carrier and stupidly called me telling me "it broke" and I guess I was expected to pay for it? I told them to basically fuck off and I guess I would buy the part from my local dealer and DIY.

Then I go to pick up yesterday. Someone didn't tell the lot jockey that my handle was broke and he locked my key in the car. I was over an hour from home and it was 8 PM so I really didn't want to make my wife drive down.

Dealer jockeys jimmied the car open with their rod and wedges and air bag and scratched up my B pillar shadow line trim pretty bad and scratched up the paint pretty good on my door jamb and the door jamb on my actual door. I'm amazed they didn't damage my interior Titan trim.


After a pretty frank and scathing 5 page letter to the owner of the dealership and copied in BMW NA, I spoke to the GM today.

Told him I just want to pay for what I needed done. So I had no problem with my $1100 alternator bill.

But I didn't bring the car in with a broken door handle yet I left with one. And also no paint or body damage which was inflicted subsequently because they locked my key in. Also incompetence. So I am looking at having them reimburse me for the door carrier parts so I can DIY, and my local body shop is within walking distance of my office (painted my skid plate) so I will be sending them the invoice for the repairs to my vehicle they inflicted while "breaking in"

Such a friggin headache. Literally this could have all been avoided if the service advisor said "you know what I remember when you checked in on Saturday, your door was fine - it broke in our hands, we wouldn't dare ask you to pay for it" - but they tried to get another 4-500 bucks out of me and now they are probably going to pay the same amount in reimbursement to the body shop and to my local dealer parts dept than they did to fix my alternator.

Long story but I can try to post my letter here in case someone wants a good read. I basically called out their price gouging, and asked if I dropped my car off with 4 perfect wheels and if a tech curbed my wheel would they call me and ask if I want to pay to replace it? I also don't even want to mention the most minute detail but most annoying.

On my $1100 tab, I see 10 @ .88 - $8.80 - 5w-30

I CHANGED MY FUCKING OIL A WEEK AGO

I don't even want to get into semantics about how a tech measures that I am 10 ounces low on oil. Never mentioned by service advisor either. Just was on my bill at pick up. That pissed me off too because as an enthusiast and in my letter to BMW I noted that as an enthusiast I keep oil on my shelf and was furthermore enraged that they didn't just charge me price for the quart and let me keep the rest. I couldn't believe they had the audacity to charge me for 10 ounces of oil after I changed mine a week ago with 8 fresh quarts.
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  #38  
Old 07-26-2016, 11:18 PM
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I feel your pain RB.

This is a classic case of why my X NEVER rolls into a dealer or indy shop.

I dealt with lots of similar dealer BS before swearing to DIYing everything.

NOBODY will treat my vehicle with the same care that I do.

My transfer case chain job had around 25 different torque specs during re-assembly, I would bet most would have been air ratchet tight had I let the "pros" do the job.
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  #39  
Old 07-27-2016, 01:12 AM
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^I second TiAG. I DIY everything I possibly can... which, so far, has been 99% of things gone wrong on my bimmers.

Such a hassle RB. Hope they at least try to make it right somehow. That is a terrible dealership experience. We have the same thing happen here at our dealership but they are the only game in town. Funny, Lexus dealers treat you like royalty. As do Infinity. Maybe the Germans need to take some lessons on customer service from the Asian brands?
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  #40  
Old 07-27-2016, 09:55 AM
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I can feel your pain all the way down to Virginia. Atypical dealer experience which seems to occur too frequently on "older models" as they represent 100% COD on any repairs.

All dealers pump oil in bulk so there is no "quart" to give you, unless you bring your own bottle.


Good luck on getting her back to square one...
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The Blue ones are always FASTER....

Current Garage:
2005 X5 4.8is
2002 M5 TiSilver
2003 525iT
1998 528i
Former Garage Stable Highlights
2004 325XiT Sport
1973 De Tomaso Pantera, L Model
1970 Dodge Challenger T/A 4 sp Alpine White
1970 Dodge Challenger T/A 4 sp GoManGo Green
1971 Dart Sport, “Dart Light” package
1969 Road Runner 383
1968 Ply Barracuda 340S FB Sea-foam Green
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