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  #31  
Old 09-25-2016, 12:31 AM
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Having the bleeder valve open while cycling the ABS should guarantee you've got all of the air out of the ABS. I tried driving on gravel and activating the ABS then later bleeding the system but still got no air out. Even though your activating the ABS the air is not getting pushed through the line unless you are bleeding while activating the ABS.
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  #32  
Old 06-23-2017, 07:24 AM
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Brake line corrosion has claimed yet another X5. The red "Brake" light appeared shortly after an elderly lady stopped in a high speed merge lane and I had to floor the pedal to avoid her and the ABS kicked in. I topped up the MC, but after a couple of days the level has dropped again and I can see fluid on rear of the liner.

Just what I need, another summer project.

Looks like the NiCopp 3/16 tubing is the way to go. Are folks running it all the way to the ABS pump, or using unions as original?
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  #33  
Old 06-23-2017, 08:36 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Scott ZHP View Post
Brake line corrosion has claimed yet another X5. The red "Brake" light appeared shortly after an elderly lady stopped in a high speed merge lane and I had to floor the pedal to avoid her and the ABS kicked in. I topped up the MC, but after a couple of days the level has dropped again and I can see fluid on rear of the liner.

Just what I need, another summer project.

Looks like the NiCopp 3/16 tubing is the way to go. Are folks running it all the way to the ABS pump, or using unions as original?
Hello Scott ZHP,
I did this project last fall. After having bought all the parts at local dealer for about $400 thinking everything would come pre-bent, ha! That's not the case, just very expensive steel epoxy coated straight lines. I realizing there was no way I was going make all those exact bends so I read on here someone did the NiCopp and I couldn't be happier that I found it. Paid $25 a roll (x2) and ran it straight from wheels to ABS block, no unions! The trick with the right week is to just feed the line thru from the left side. The whole job took only a few hours and was so much simpler that the BMW way.. Also not, you will need to activate the ABS bleed program with a scan tool once your ready.. For me that was the most expensive part/tool I had to buy was the Foxwell NT510 on Amazon. Good unit to have if you own a BMW.. Your also going to need a couple of tubing benders. Got a really good little one at Harbour freight for like $7 and you will need the flaring tool for the European style flare. I paid $100 at NAPA only because I was in a hurry. You can find them on line much cheaper.
Good luck!
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  #34  
Old 06-23-2017, 09:27 AM
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Thanks for the tips.

I have most of the tools for the job, been doing lines on British cars for a while. But I think I'm going to follow the advice earlier and buy the hydraulic flare tool, either the one mentioned above or the Mastercool kit for about $250.

I have an old laptop running INPA and the recommended cable/driver installed for it, I need to add the jumper and test that out to ensure I can cycle the ABS. Does the Foxwell NT510 work with the newer BMW models as well, like the E70 LCi?
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  #35  
Old 06-23-2017, 09:30 AM
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One more thing ... do people leave the old lines in place and run the new one parallel to it, as a reference prior to removing, or just remove the old one and eyeball it?
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  #36  
Old 06-23-2017, 01:18 PM
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Take several photos of how the original lines are run then remove the old lines and keep them for reference if needed. Putting in the new lines is fairly straight forward and they will fit into plastic body clamps along their route so you will pretty much know where they are supposed to go. Just pay particular attention to how both lines run around the suspension at the rear left wheel and you should be good.

I did full runs of NiCopp from wheel well to the ABS. No unions to mess with!

BTW I tried several (cheaper) flaring tools but this one was the best. SUR&R » HFT50

Just as an update: This past week I had to replace the front left brake caliper because the piston was sticking. Last year I let the car sit for about two weeks with the rusted brake lines before doing the brake line job and I wonder if the system got some moisture in it because it was open to the elements. As a precaution I replaced all four calipers, the rubber brake lines and put on new rotors and pads to complete a full system refresh.
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  #37  
Old 06-23-2017, 02:34 PM
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Thanks; bought the HFT50 tool a few minutes ago. $113 and change. Looks like it does 3/16 or 1/4 tube and all three flare types. Still on the fence about tubing, looks like a buck a foot at some places, and twice that much at others. Seems to all be the same 90/10 copper nickel alloy.

I'll probably replace both rear caliper hose/tube/hose assemblies in the back as well while I have the system open. Strange design.
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Last edited by Scott ZHP; 06-23-2017 at 02:44 PM.
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  #38  
Old 07-07-2017, 12:46 PM
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I replaced all my lines (with the exception of the right front wheel) with NiCopp using the HFT50 tool. It worked great, I only had one bad flare and that was a beginners mistake. I put a union on my lines on the left rear wheel well for the 2 rear lines to make it easier to do the routing. The NiCopp bends so easy it was almost a waste to buy a tubing bender. I ran all my lines to the ABS pump. I also replaced all the rubber tubes with ECS steel braided lines. I did not replace the line to the right front wheel because it did not have any rust on it. The engine heat must be keeping it dry.

This was not really hard work but a lot of time and it is quite a pain to remove all the shielding required to do it.


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  #39  
Old 07-07-2017, 07:02 PM
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So just an update...

I received two 25ft coils of 3/16 NiCopp, a bunch of fittings, unions and the HFT50 flaring tool. Already have the tube bending tools. I've done a few practice flares and I'm really impressed with this tool. I had one dodgy flare, probably because I didn't debur the inside of the line.

I'm waiting on a tube straightener and a free weekend. The tube tool is made in the UK and available from Eastwood for $90, but I found it in the UK for half the price even with overnight air shipping. This is the tool: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=4OVREFfoAAA

Out of town wedding next weekend, so following weekend is soonest I can play with this.

Edit: also waiting on a pair of new rear brake hoses and 2 liters of low-viscosity ATE fluid. Got my INPA working, that took a bunch of fiddling to find the right driver/COM port combination for the cable, but that's now working Ok to cycle the ABS pump. Probably should have just bought the Foxwell 510 tool, as I doubt my K-DCAN cable will talk to my LCi E70 with it's fiber bus.
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Last edited by Scott ZHP; 07-07-2017 at 07:43 PM.
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  #40  
Old 07-08-2017, 01:59 PM
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Got the liner off this morning. Wasn't too hard to find the leak, there's also a large puddle under the two crusty lines on the right. The unions at the footwell actually look surprisingly clean.
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