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Old 09-08-2016, 04:55 PM
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Rear Brake Lines Rusted Out - Anyone replace the hard lines with Stainless Steel?

Hey Guys,

One of the rear brake lines rusted out under the big black plastic protection shield. I am going to pop it off and replace all the brakes lines going to the back of the battle wagon but I was wondering if anyone had any recommendations on doing it? It looks like stainless steel or copper lines would be the best option so that rust is never a factor. It looks like I need the following:

3/16" line
Bubble Flaring tool
M10 fittings
Bending tool

Anyone have any recommendations on the tools or where to get them?


As always, thanks guys.
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  #2  
Old 09-08-2016, 05:09 PM
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Copper is too soft and will expand or rupture if you make an emergency stop. Stainless steel lines are better. Unless it is a real tight bend you should be able to bend it with your hands. For tight bends I use a spiral sheath that looks like a spring which go over the brake lines to prevent them from kinking as you bend them. Harbor Freight has this tool. You will need to do a double flare. You will also need a mini tubing cutter to cut the brake line. What ever you do, don't use compression fittings. They will only fail at the worse possible time.

I replace all the brake lines on my Lotus when I did a body off restoration. I also did a repair on my Ford Ranger truck when the line rusted out and leaked fluid.

Plenty of Youtube videos on this type of repairs.
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Last edited by upallnight; 09-08-2016 at 05:25 PM.
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Old 09-08-2016, 06:03 PM
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Hey upallnite, good to hear from your.

I am surprised to hear you say that about copper (copper alloy to be exact), everyone seems to say that is the "best" material for the lines with stainless coming in second. I think copper is all Fedhill brake line - Where to buy brake line, fuel line, brake line flaring tools, brake line nuts and brake line fittings sells.
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2001 3.0 X5 5M - 227k - "Station Wagon according to the great communist state of IL"
1995 M3 5M - 230k and waiting for a new head gasket
1988 325i Auto Convertible - sold
1992 318i 5M Convertible - sold
1992 325i 5M Convertible - sold
2001 330i 5M Convertible - The more money I put in, the better it gets...
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Old 09-09-2016, 08:03 AM
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Can't recall for sure, but I believe copper lines are not DOT legal in the US. As mentioned, the good alternative is Cunifer, a copper nickel steel alloy, hence CuNiFer.

I have stainless steel lines on my MGB, the flares are unforgiving and difficult to seal against the brass unions. I bought them pre-bent, took about 15 minutes to install the set. They shipped in a HUGE mostly empty cardboard box - it weighed more than the lines did, lol.

My Spitfire got a set of Automec copper-alloy lines, as I think Cunifer is a trademark, but they look identical.
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Old 09-09-2016, 09:06 AM
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Mine had a bit of surface corrosion on it but nothing major when I had the pan dropped to tackle the fuel filter - I just hosed them down and soaked in WD40

These lines should be much more accessible IMO don't even get me started on the big pan under the car lol
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Old 09-09-2016, 09:38 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Spunbearing View Post
Hey upallnite, good to hear from your.

I am surprised to hear you say that about copper (copper alloy to be exact), everyone seems to say that is the "best" material for the lines with stainless coming in second. I think copper is all Fedhill brake line - Where to buy brake line, fuel line, brake line flaring tools, brake line nuts and brake line fittings sells.
Copper alloy or copper nickle tubing will be fine for brake lines. Copper tubing is a no no.
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Lotus Europa 1970 Destroyed by fire
Lotus Europa 1970 S2 Renault Powered
Lotus Type 52 1970 Twincam Webers Powered
PORSCHE 911 Targa 1982 The Garage Queen
Audi Avant donated to Kars for Kids
BMW 525IT Sold
Audi 4000CS Quattro Sold
Jensen Healey Lotus Powered Sold
Opel 1900 Sold
Triumph Spitfire 1971 Sold
Triumph Spitfire 1968 Sold
Plymouth "Cuda" 340 Six pack SOLD
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Old 09-09-2016, 10:10 AM
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BMW sells the brake lines really cheaply. They come in straight sections, but are cut to the correct length and have nice flares and nuts on them. If you take the front wheel liner out (a few screws and maybe 6 plastic rivets) then you have good access.

Seems way faster. And, yes, they might rust out in another 10 or fifteen years, but I think by then everything else will have failed, too.
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Old 09-09-2016, 11:28 AM
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Just to clarify, when I said copper, I was talking about the Cunifer lines which are DOT approved. I had no intention of putting pure copper lines on the car. I am not pluming water I though I clarified it when I sent the link to the Fedhill site where they only sell Cunifer lines but there still seems to be some confusion.

From what I have been reading it looks like the Cunifer lines are a lot easier to work with then the stainless. Any recommendations on a flair tool?
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2001 3.0 X5 5M - 227k - "Station Wagon according to the great communist state of IL"
1995 M3 5M - 230k and waiting for a new head gasket
1988 325i Auto Convertible - sold
1992 318i 5M Convertible - sold
1992 325i 5M Convertible - sold
2001 330i 5M Convertible - The more money I put in, the better it gets...
1998 K1200RS - Done all 48 Contiguous States, looking forward to Alaska at some point in my life
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Old 09-09-2016, 11:33 AM
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I just had to do this on my 2005 X5 and I replaced the rear lines with AGS NiCopp. Supposedly this copper alloy has been used for brake lines by other manufacturers for decades. (Audi, Porsche, etc.)

I used 2 - 25 foot rolls of NiCopp and ran each line as a continuous run. This should cost around $60 online (~$30 per roll). NiCopp Nickel/Copper Brake Line Tubing Coil, 3/16" x 25' - AGS Company AGS Company You'll have some tubing left over from each roll but a single 25 foot roll is not enough to do both lines.

I ended up using an HFT50 flaring tool after buying a cheap one and being disappointed with the quality of the flares. The HFT50 is not cheap ($140) but it is a quality tool. http://surrauto.com/documents/HFT50H...laringTool.pdf Practice! Practice! Practice! before making the flares on the car. Also note that the flare type you want is a DIN Mushroom flare. A bubble flare may work but it's not the correct flare type.

Most of the bending I did by hand but in the wheel wells where the connection is made to the rubber brake line I used this bending tool from Harbor Freight for $10. 1/8" to 1/4" Tube Bender
It gave nice consistent bends and is a good size for fitting in tight areas if needed. I also used it for making the bends going into the distribution box.

Once I got the NiCopp lines in place I bought 4 feet of 3/16 ID rubber hose and cut it in 2" or 4" sections and slit it along the length and used it as additional vibration protection bushings for spots where the lines may cross or they may come in contact with the body. These were tie wrapped in place.

FYI BMW sells the steel lines cut to length BUT that will cost you about $200 for all the lines. But the big problem is going to be joining the lines that run under the trunk over to the right rear. Getting a wrench in there will be too tight unless you connect them before installation. Using a continuous line avoided that headache as I just fed the line from the left side over to the right side.

Also be aware that BMW recommends using Low Viscosity DOT 4 brake fluid. I chose to use BMW fluid from ECS Tuning in 12oz bottles. It's cheaper to buy the 12oz bottles than a gallon and if you dont use them all they will stay sealed and be good for your next brake flush.

WARNING! My lines rusted out in the usual spot right behind the drivers side wheel well under the plastic cover. However I noticed significant corrosion on both lines hidden behind the left front wheel well splash guard and on the right rear line as it travels from left to right under the trunk and over the differential. Just checking under the long plastic cover is not enough!
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Old 09-09-2016, 11:52 AM
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^Good tips and thanks - I still use standard DOT4 brake fluid, the low viscosity stuff needs more frequent changing (yearly) IMO -

I will have to get the front end in the air and direct a hose behind the wheel well so I can rinse any salt off and get some WD40 on the front hard lines - I only got to the rear section when I was doing my fuel filter recently
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