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  #51  
Old 09-15-2020, 10:53 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Effduration View Post
Doing this project now. CN90 DIY is excellent...

I am cutting out rusted sections and replacing with Ni-Copp tubing.

I need to make good bubble flares on both Ni-Copp and the steel lines still in X5.

I tried a new, in-line bubble flaring tool - Cal-Van part# 155...for about $30...good idea, poor execution. It is small and is ideal for in-line work, but unfortunately it is not robust enough for making bubble flares in (non-stainless) steel. It won't grip the tubing with enough clamping force to withstand the bubble formation. I am returning it.

I ended up borrowing a mid-level MasterCool bubble flaring tool.

Haven't tested any connections yet..still working on it.
Also will use Cu-Ni tube stock, borrowing tools from a friend. For the lines that are still in good condition, i will apply a light coating of grease to help preserve them.

I was appalled by all the road crap that came out when the plastic cover was removed. You're located not far from me (CT) so you probably had the same.
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'06 X5 4.8iS
'89 525i - sold
'91 M5 - sold
'12 Lexus IS 250 awd
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  #52  
Old 09-15-2020, 11:07 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Thors Twins View Post
I was appalled by all the road crap that came out when the plastic cover was removed. You're located not far from me (CT) so you probably had the same.
Sure did... I will also likely replace the fuel filter while I am down under there.
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  #53  
Old 09-15-2020, 11:15 AM
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I used this type of flare tool. Worked like a charm.

https://www.ebay.de/itm/BRAKE-PIPE-F...53.m2749.l2649
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  #54  
Old 09-15-2020, 01:19 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Clavurion View Post
I used this type of flare tool. Worked like a charm.

https://www.ebay.de/itm/BRAKE-PIPE-F...53.m2749.l2649
Wow that tool has great reviews...I may have to try it.
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  #55  
Old 09-16-2020, 03:06 AM
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Thanks for posting the tool.
I created a jpeg photo so everyone can see it.

The Neiko tool that I used in 2019 had the following issues:
- The wing nuts broke after 3 uses, had to use standard nuts to clamp the pipe.
- It leaves some marks on the pipe, not as big deal bc it is mostly "cosmetic".
- It has a short section for gripping.

The tool you posted above has a longer section for gripping (RED in the photo below).
So the tool you mentioned, TRIDENT T413705, seems better than the Neiko tool.

Here is the photo:
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  #56  
Old 09-18-2020, 08:09 PM
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just did the job tonight. 3/16" Cu-Ni lengths flared with the fittings. Bought 2 couplings with corresponding line nuts, and the M10 and M12 line nuts to fit with the existing unions at the front.

Auto Zone rents tools, you make a deposit, use 'em then bring them back for full refund.

i used my hand for tube bending, nothing to it.

Tomorrow is the going to be a harder day as i have to replace the vacuum booster, then bleed all brakes.
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'06 X5 4.8iS
'89 525i - sold
'91 M5 - sold
'12 Lexus IS 250 awd
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  #57  
Old 09-18-2020, 09:53 PM
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I had to do my rear brake lines and had nothing but problems using the rented flaring tools available to me. I ended up buying this tool so I could have faith driving my e53 again. Also used the Cu-Ni line.
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  #58  
Old 09-18-2020, 10:01 PM
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Slowly nibbling at my brake line project. I made 3 tubing cuts today, bent a replacement piece of Ni-Copp and made 3 bubble flares - 2 of which were on the X5.

I got the open brake line to stop dripping fluid by placing a piece of cellophane (saran wrap) over the brake reservoir opening and closing the reservoir cap.
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  #59  
Old 09-19-2020, 06:29 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Effduration View Post
I got the open brake line to stop dripping fluid by placing a piece of cellophane (saran wrap) over the brake reservoir opening and closing the reservoir cap.
Press the brake pedal slightly and keep it there for example with a block of wood between pedal and front seat. This will close the line between fluid reservoir and main cylinder.
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  #60  
Old 10-06-2020, 01:43 PM
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Am at a standstill and taking a step back to collect thoughts.

My brake repairs started with a stiff brake pedal at low speeds and idling at stop lights/signs, it would transition to normal once car was moving at speed. Fast fwd, one of the brake lines to the rear pass side failed, after which i collected all the parts i needed to fix the brake issues.

Brake booster was inspected and found internally with orange color, replaced it with used but good spare, and fitted a new master cylinder. Vacuum pump opened and full of motor oil - replaced. Check valve was ok, but replaced it anyway.

For the brake lines, removed the affected section and installed a Cu-Ni 3/16" insert with the appropriate fittings, flaring etc. The driver side rear brake line was not so good so repeated same for this one as well.

Now i go to bleed brakes. The front calipers bled as they should with good bubble-free fluid streams. THe rear brake calipers barely have any fluid coming out, even after using a electric-motor driven vacuum pump to remove air, still no good fluid flow when pumping the pedal. Bled the fluid at the ABS pump by loosening the fittings for all 4 brake points, fluid came from each. Repeated caliper bleeding but no change with the rear brakes.

I went back to the 2 Cu-Ni lines i installed to make sure there were no obstructions - confirmed none.

Is there something wrong with the ABS pump? Grateful for any input and thoughts/ideas. THnx
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'06 X5 4.8iS
'89 525i - sold
'91 M5 - sold
'12 Lexus IS 250 awd
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