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  #111  
Old 08-08-2018, 05:25 PM
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It looks as if the assembly is being compressed (and bent) when you screw it down, rather than the sprung section taking up the height difference...?
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  #112  
Old 08-08-2018, 06:01 PM
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I am assuming that the bottom of the tank is getting sucked up(and top down) further than the sprung travel ??
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  #113  
Old 08-08-2018, 06:18 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 80stech View Post
I am assuming that the bottom of the tank is getting sucked up(and top down) further than the sprung travel ??
That's a reasonable theory but the tank walls are very thick - I'd be surprised if it can deform that much under vacuum alone.

Maybe it's had massive hit from underneath at some point and is permanently deformed.

Or the sprung section is binding and not allowing enough travel.
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  #114  
Old 08-09-2018, 03:11 AM
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The compression under vaccum is my theory because putting the assembly in is not difficult and it slips right in without the gasket, when I add the gasket, it doesn't slip as easily but that's normal.


I don't think its been hit, the car has only been on road for the last 6 months (went light off roading prior to that) and the first broken assembly was 10 months old when it broke suddenly. and the second one was 10 days old.



I'm guessing if the tank was permanently deformed, it would have broken sooner.



The only two options I see would be high preassure not being vented and the tank expanding a little more than the full course of the assembly, allowing it to move and get out of its locating hole or the tank being vaccumed into submission to the point where it breaks the assembly.



I'll need to take it out again and take some measurements to see how much course there actually is. As for the strengh of the tank, it is strong but I can make the top move a little without too much force so I'm guessing the V8 vaccum pump would be able to do better.
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  #115  
Old 08-09-2018, 03:38 AM
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It looks like when you dry run (no seal) you are hitting the bullseye with the post and socket but when you redowith the seal the post is missing the target and causing the stress.

You have to put the seal on the sender unit first not on the tank. Wet the seal to help it going in smoothly

Save extremely harsh external damage (drive over a rock) virtually no chance the problem had anything to do with change of size of the tank
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  #116  
Old 08-09-2018, 04:09 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by andrewwynn View Post
It looks like when you dry run (no seal) you are hitting the bullseye with the post and socket but when you redowith the seal the post is missing the target and causing the stress.

You have to put the seal on the sender unit first not on the tank. Wet the seal to help it going in smoothly

Save extremely harsh external damage (drive over a rock) virtually no chance the problem had anything to do with change of size of the tank

I'm going to change it again as soon as I reach a bmw dealer to sell it to me and hope you're right... For my peace of mind, I'm going to check the vent valve since I don't understand why it broke the first time after such a long time without issues...


I'll see if from the pump side I can check its correctly seated when I mount it.
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  #117  
Old 08-09-2018, 11:01 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by scourtaud23 View Post
the V8 vaccum pump would be able to do better.
Engine vacuum (atmospheric pressure) could easily crush tank. Also fuel pump could easily crush tank the same way if tank is not venting.
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Last edited by 80stech; 08-09-2018 at 11:07 AM. Reason: add
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  #118  
Old 08-10-2018, 12:34 AM
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e53 Fuel Supply Detailed (fuel pump / siphon pump diagnostic help)

That's true 15psi is substantial force.

You can try to take off the gas cap while the engine is running you’ll know right away.

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro
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  #119  
Old 08-10-2018, 10:36 AM
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The pictures are of the jet pump or left side sender. Same as Port side. Driver side in the USA (LHD). I thought I read right side above.
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