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#171
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First get an ohm reading when you are confident you are at flood stage (left tank below 28L right staying the same). The two terminals closest to the door jamb are the sender terminals. When at flood stage you should see a value close to 37-39 Ω. If you get that reading but the test six right isn't showing 1.4ish the problem is elsewhere. Mine was reading 22 Ω. Far far too low. The lowest reading on my sender was about 18 Ω and that registers 0.0L on the computer. I took my fuel sender out and propped it into a vice; Do it only exactly this way. It's the only place that holds it firmly and are and level. Then I measured the distance from the floor to the bottom of the guide post: It was almost exactly 118cm. Then I measured the height from the floor to the center of the float when the sender reported the same Ω as reading in the car, it was almost exactly 2cm lower, VERY handy. Then a few rounds of trial and error to get the Ω value of needed with the 2cm offset and about 1.5L at flood stage. (Bend the float arm a bit: more straight to get a higher Ω more bent to get a lower Ω. ) That was my bench reading. I think it ended up being closer to 39 Ω in the car but I'm very happy seeing 1.5L when driving now vs. 0.2L ! This is the fuel pump fuse. Very helpful for testing with test six before hooking everything back up! I probably took the pump out and in about a dozen times today so I'm quite proficient at it now. A couple tips: don't try to feed the float in first when installing, hold it up vertically and let it fall down after it's in! Huge difference! The seal MUST be on the TANK not the pump! It typically comes out with the pump but must be transferred back before reassembling. Here's my biggest aha moment of the day: HOOK the float with a long piece or wire bent into a "J" at the bottom and lift it vertically for removal also! Wow did that make It go smoothly! It will catch on the edge just push it away from the edge with your finger. Stall out the engine with the fuel fuse out to depressurize the fuel line. Then when removing the line, wrap with a paper towel about 10cc of fuel will be absorbed into the paper. Safety dispose of fuel soaked paper with a lighter in a safe location (metal bin outside works well). If not windy the middle of a driveway also works well I used my homemade bar for removing the big fuel tank "nut". I think photos are already in this thread. That's the update for the right side sender. Left side sender resistor repair coming up.
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2011 E70 • N55 (me) 2012 E70 • N63 (wife) |
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#172
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Very useful writeup!! Based on your description, i found the fault in 10 minutes. Many thanks!! |
#173
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It's a design flaw. Every one will eventually do that. So glad it helped
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2011 E70 • N55 (me) 2012 E70 • N63 (wife) |
#174
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I just have one questions (yeah probably not true) why does BMW have to make everything so damn complicated? Well a few things are simple enough like the radiator hoses but most everything else is a PITA.
Yeah Ive already had the fuel pump failure.
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2001 3.0 BMW X5 |
#175
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Solving one problem after another over time leads to complexity. It's impractical to ground up design every time and that method leads to an entirely different type of failure mode.
Considering the permanent fix for the o-ring design flaw is a single zip tie BMW could have sent out a TSB vs. replace the whole left sender unit with the same design flaw as the original.
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2011 E70 • N55 (me) 2012 E70 • N63 (wife) |
#176
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They really need to add a like button to the post so we can simply hit like and not have to waste post section. Thanks for all the great information even though Ive gotten information overload from it again.
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2001 3.0 BMW X5 |
#177
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AWR-fix: e53 Fuel pump / siphon pump details
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Sometimes I get a like button in tap a talk but usually no so maybe it's based on which forum I don't really pay attention to which forum I'm in I just reply to subscribed threads. Confirmed. Bimmerfest has like option
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2011 E70 • N55 (me) 2012 E70 • N63 (wife) Last edited by andrewwynn; 09-17-2021 at 12:18 PM. |
#178
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I would rather not have a like button as it is becomes too easy just to punch it rather than state the reason for ones opinion or provide input which is one of the primary purposes of a forum.
In addition, if there were a like button then there should also be a I don't like button and, and, and and.
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X5 4.6 2002 Black Sap, Black interior. 2013 X5M Melbourne Red, Bamboo interior Dallas |
#179
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"like".
Well said. I have often posted simply +1 when in agreement with a post it means the same as "like" So: "+1".
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2011 E70 • N55 (me) 2012 E70 • N63 (wife) |
#180
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My gauge does not go to full after I fill the tank. On the menu it usually initially says the right side of the tank is zero, and will sometimes flicker between 27 and zero as I am driving around, and will display Phase2.
After a period of time, the gauge will go to full and the menu will show both sides of the tank as full, but will still show Phase2. After more time, usually after about 50 miles/a few days, the indicator will switch to Phase1 and the gauge will be completely normal. I'm suspecting the fuel level sensor on the right is the culprit. I'm on my third fuel pump. The mechanic says it is the cluster. I don't have time to fix the car myself, and it is really hard to find a good mechanic. Is it the pump/sensor on the right side?? Or the cluster? The photo shows the menu with a full tank (it is in phase2) but the needle doesn't go to the top until later. Video shows the right tank flipping back and forth between zero and full. Any advice is appreciated. Video: https://youtu.be/GV8Ywc4fOm8
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Mark 2001 3.0 Original Owner, still going 2012 E70 xDrive 35i Pre-Owned -- sold because no one could figure out the transmission problem Last edited by zonefive; 03-10-2023 at 11:31 AM. |
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