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  #11  
Old 03-16-2017, 05:35 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by magnum1 View Post
Wpoll,

The Indy said the old alternator was putting out 13 volts and should be around 13.8
Yep, 13 volts does seem pretty low. Did you manage to unlock the BC and get a running reading with the new alternator?
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  #12  
Old 03-16-2017, 07:49 AM
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Couple things:

Alternator:
- Bosch 120A AL0703N is about $200 new.
- Valeo: 120A vs 140A...about $300 new.

I'd NOT touch a rebuilt alternator from local store.

Battery:
- Best bang for the buck is Exide L3, about $90 at Menards or Home Depot.
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  #13  
Old 03-16-2017, 10:36 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by magnum1 View Post
Guess no one has had a new battery go dead on them even after a new Alternator was installed?
Thank you
Hey sorry I seen your question a couple days ago but I couldn't respond had to wait until I got validated. Anyways. When my battery kept going dead it turned out to be the FSU. If your car is off or even when you're driving does it sound like the fans kick on or act up weirdly? If so then the FSU is your problem. I got one off amazon and replaced it easily with no problems. Just removed one screw on passenger side and then slid it in.
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  #14  
Old 03-16-2017, 11:04 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by StephenVA View Post
Here is the method to discover what is going on.... Not mine just a reuse without acknowledgement to the author.

BMW Battery Drain Testing
When your car battery goes dead overnight, usually either the battery is at the end of its life span, or you left something on, such as a light. Occasionally something is drawing power that's not of your doing. This is a parasitic draw, and it can cause the same result as leaving the headlights on: a dead battery in the morning.

0. Recharge battery at 30 amps for 15 mins. Read battery voltage. Over 12.7? Proceed to step 1. Don't have a 30 amp tester? Charge at lesser rates over night. Ready battery at posts. Over 12.7V? Proceed to step 1.

1. Remove the negative side battery cable from the negative battery terminal.
2. Connect the black wire to the com input on the multimeter and the red wire to the 10A or 20A input on the multimeter. The meter needs to be able to read at least a 2 or 3 amps for this test to work. Connecting the red wire to the mA input on the multimeter won't work and could damage the meter.
3. Attach a multimeter (set the dial on the multimeter to measure Amps as per multimeter instructions) between the negative cable and the negative battery post. Wait a few seconds to several minutes for the car to go into sleep mode - i.e. when you make the contact with the ammeter, the cars computer systems "wake up". After a bit of time they will go back to "sleep".
4. If the ammeter is reading over 25-50 milliamps, something is using too much battery power.
5. Go to the fuse panel(s) and remove fuses, one at a time. Pull the main fuses (higher amp ratings) last. Perform the same steps for relays found in the fuse panel. Sometimes relay contacts can fail to release causing a drain. Be sure to observe the ammeter after pulling each fuse or relay.
6. Watch for the ammeter to drop to acceptable drain. The fuse that reduces the drain is the draw. Consult the owners' manual or service manual to find what circuits are on that fuse.
7. Check each device (circuit) on that fuse. Stop each lamp, heater, etc. to find the drain.
8. Repeat steps 1 & 2 to test your repair. The ammeter will tell you the exact numbers.

Helpful?
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  #15  
Old 03-18-2017, 02:44 PM
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Got a New 140 Amp Alternator and it was putting out 14 volts
the car is back the Indy that changed the alternator and seems like he is having a difficult time finding the problem.
am pretty feed up with it at this point
been there since Monday
will pass along the other information that I got from here
Thank you everyone
will keep you posted as to what is the outcome

Jim
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  #16  
Old 03-19-2017, 10:25 AM
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Help your tech understand what the proper procedures are may help him figure out what is going on. At 15 years the ground ends vibrate loose and cause issues that float around. There a host of ground ends , connecting, etc that should be cleaned and tightened to eliminate poor connections. The only way to ensure proper connectivity is through a volt drop test or a resistance test. All just take a basic understanding of electricity and time. At normal shop rates and processes it is very time consuming so most techs bail and throw parts at the problem instead.
A few have posted that one area to look at is the Positive and Negative battery cables. One point is the jump point on the positive cable under the hood. They post that the end comes loose and causes a herd of issues. Others have mentioned the issues are found in the spare tire area as the connectors are discovered loose and not allowing a clean clear grounding of the main harnesses.

Vehicles that are exposed to high humid conditions have experienced multiple wire harness to connector issues. Starter, Alternator connections, water in the trunk causing MAJOR issues with wiring and electronic components. Take a few mins and pull the spare out and see what is going on if anything.

Good luck
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The Blue ones are always FASTER....

Current Garage:
2005 X5 4.8is
2002 M5 TiSilver
2003 525iT
1998 528i
Former Garage Stable Highlights
2004 325XiT Sport
1973 De Tomaso Pantera, L Model
1970 Dodge Challenger T/A 4 sp Alpine White
1970 Dodge Challenger T/A 4 sp GoManGo Green
1971 Dart Sport, “Dart Light” package
1969 Road Runner 383
1968 Ply Barracuda 340S FB Sea-foam Green

Last edited by StephenVA; 03-20-2017 at 08:24 AM.
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  #17  
Old 03-19-2017, 01:43 PM
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Thank you
will talk with the tech
hopefully it works out
Jim
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  #18  
Old 03-19-2017, 03:15 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by StephenVA View Post
Here is the method to discover what is going on.... Not mine just a reuse without acknowledgement to the author.

BMW Battery Drain Testing
When your car battery goes dead overnight, usually either the battery is at the end of its life span, or you left something on, such as a light. Occasionally something is drawing power that's not of your doing. This is a parasitic draw, and it can cause the same result as leaving the headlights on: a dead battery in the morning.

0. Recharge battery at 30 amps for 15 mins. Read battery voltage. Over 12.7? Proceed to step 1. Don't have a 30 amp tester? Charge at lesser rates over night. Ready battery at posts. Over 12.7V? Proceed to step 1.

1. Remove the negative side battery cable from the negative battery terminal.
2. Connect the black wire to the com input on the multimeter and the red wire to the 10A or 20A input on the multimeter. The meter needs to be able to read at least a 2 or 3 amps for this test to work. Connecting the red wire to the mA input on the multimeter won't work and could damage the meter.
3. Attach a multimeter (set the dial on the multimeter to measure Amps as per multimeter instructions) between the negative cable and the negative battery post. Wait a few seconds to several minutes for the car to go into sleep mode - i.e. when you make the contact with the ammeter, the cars computer systems "wake up". After a bit of time they will go back to "sleep".
4. If the ammeter is reading over 25-50 milliamps, something is using too much battery power.
5. Go to the fuse panel(s) and remove fuses, one at a time. Pull the main fuses (higher amp ratings) last. Perform the same steps for relays found in the fuse panel. Sometimes relay contacts can fail to release causing a drain. Be sure to observe the ammeter after pulling each fuse or relay.
6. Watch for the ammeter to drop to acceptable drain. The fuse that reduces the drain is the draw. Consult the owners' manual or service manual to find what circuits are on that fuse.
7. Check each device (circuit) on that fuse. Stop each lamp, heater, etc. to find the drain.
8. Repeat steps 1 & 2 to test your repair. The ammeter will tell you the exact numbers.

Helpful?
The better method of charging a battery is an overnight low amp charge. In the morning start the vehicle and measure the output volts of the alternator, easy to do via the cluster. It volts are consistently 13.8-14.3 then have the battery load tested, it's free at most auto parts stores.

If alternator and battery are good time to see if it going to sleep and if draw is normal. BMWs don't go to sleep for 16-20 minutes after each cause to leave that mode.
The multimeter should be set to measure milliamps when awake and asleep.
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  #19  
Old 03-19-2017, 03:28 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by StephenVA View Post
Help your tech understand what the proper procedures are may help him figure out what is going on. At 15 years the ground ends vibrate loose and cause issues that float around. There a host of ground ends , connecting, etc that should be cleaned and tightened to eliminate poor connections. The only way to ensure proper connectivity is through a volt drop test or a resistance test. All just take a basic understanding of electricity and time. At normal shop rates and processes it is very time consuming so most techs bail and throw parts at the problem instead.
A few have posted that one are to look at is the jump point on the positive cable under the hood. They post that the end comes loose and causes a herd of issues.

Good luck
IMO there is no certain number of years where the cause of battery drain or parasitic drain will be a loose or corroded connection, could be one year, thirty years or may not be an issue in its lifetime. I agree, that as part of the troubleshooting before buying parts, the primary connection at the battery and under the hood should be removed, cleaned and reinstalled and check the voltage at the battery and under the hood, should be the same both sitting and running.
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  #20  
Old 03-20-2017, 08:29 AM
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I have come to the conclusion that vehicles that are stored for months (i.e winter) would be better off with the battery disconnected from the vehicle and trickle charged. The action of keeping everything active waiting for a door opening, key fob command, etc is just a inch away from issues. Time for me to buy those battery cut off switches for stored vehicles.....
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2005 X5 4.8IS
The Blue ones are always FASTER....

Current Garage:
2005 X5 4.8is
2002 M5 TiSilver
2003 525iT
1998 528i
Former Garage Stable Highlights
2004 325XiT Sport
1973 De Tomaso Pantera, L Model
1970 Dodge Challenger T/A 4 sp Alpine White
1970 Dodge Challenger T/A 4 sp GoManGo Green
1971 Dart Sport, “Dart Light” package
1969 Road Runner 383
1968 Ply Barracuda 340S FB Sea-foam Green
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