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  #21  
Old 03-31-2017, 03:24 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ricky Bobby View Post
You cant check play in the ball joints or control arms without airing out the rear bags - they keep the suspension loaded -

$150 per side on parts or on labor? Book time is about 4 hours per side for labor if not more - When I did my fronts I was quoted $850 in labor to do both - its a bitch of a job
I supply the bearings, 113$ or so from ECS or FCP, my mechanic charges me 150$ for labor.
So I suppose that's cheap then.
Didn't even think about taking the air out.
Just pull the fuse? Forgive my ignorance, I haven't done it before.
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  #22  
Old 03-31-2017, 03:27 PM
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Originally Posted by wpoll View Post
Doesn't sound like bearings - they would have to be beyond destroyed to have enough play on them to make that sort of noise. Mine where droning like a bomber but had zero play. Races were badly pitted in a couple of places but the bearing was otherwise in pretty decent condition overall. But still toast.

The play in the wheels is odd - kinda points to the bearings, I'd have to agree. Can't hurt to replace them (except fiscally).
That's what I said, can't hurt to replace them except my wallet, but I'm planning to keep the car so more piece of mind knowing they are replaced.
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  #23  
Old 03-31-2017, 03:36 PM
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To me that seems like an awful lot of play. How is your upper control arm and tie rod?
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  #24  
Old 03-31-2017, 03:55 PM
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Originally Posted by Joshdub View Post
To me that seems like an awful lot of play. How is your upper control arm and tie rod?
Josh I haven't checked those except the control arm bushings have small cracks in the rubber but not even looking at them I know they're approaching the end of their life, it they're not already there.
Not sure what else to check.
Keep them coming guys, need to get to the bottom of this.
Thanks
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Old 03-31-2017, 05:03 PM
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You have to actually air them out at the reservoir - there is a little connection to unscrew and you will hear the air wooshing out -

Once the air is out and takes the preload off the suspension you will be able to know if the ball joints do it -

I say install the rear suspension parts first (before going for alignment) if it solves it then great go get it aligned and forget bearings - if it doesn't solve it and there is bearing play with the suspension deflated in the rear then do them - $150 per side is amazing labor on the wheel bearing -
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  #26  
Old 03-31-2017, 05:20 PM
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Got you man. I'll do that and see what I'm able to find out.
Wow I must be really lucky with my mechanic's prices.
He's got another profitable business on the side and his new shop is on his property, paid for.
I suppose that's why he can afford to fix cars for cheaper than competition. 800$ for one wheel bearing is insane.
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Old 03-31-2017, 06:09 PM
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Either you're Indy likes working for free or he's in for a surprise on Time/Labor for the R/R. Even with the moon and stars aligned, he's got at least 3 hrs tied up on the WB
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  #28  
Old 03-31-2017, 06:36 PM
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He's got two decades of experience, I'm sure he's had his fair share of wheel bearings.
Either way, I don't want to give him a reason to raise his prices lol
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  #29  
Old 04-02-2017, 08:58 PM
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That's so crazy. Is that Center nut tight, the one that goes through the hub?
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  #30  
Old 04-02-2017, 09:29 PM
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I didn't check. What's the socket size on that thing? 32..33mm or so?
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