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#21
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The E53 axle M27 nut means the very outer edge of axle's threaded portion is 27mm. If the tool spec is correct (30-mm), then the E53 axle's threaded portion should go through. The ultimate test: some forum members should test it and report back with photos. BTW, there are different mfg's, so you need to measure your own tool to see the diameter of the hole and see why it didn't fit. I have done 100's of axle CV joints, and I used hammer and drift too, I don't like that technique. The idea of this thread is to share new tool ideas, not for people coming here and bash others. Some people "fix cars" using simple tools b/c all they care is oil change and brake work, they don't own anything fancy simply b/c of the costs of special tools involved. This tool is a good example that a professional tool can be had for cheap.
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1998 E39 528i 5sp MT 2006 E53 X5 3.0 6sp MT |
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#22
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A photo is worth 1000 words. PS: So, even if this tool does not fit the X5 (I doubt this is the case, I think it will fit), it fits other sedans, and many people have other vehicles too.
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1998 E39 528i 5sp MT 2006 E53 X5 3.0 6sp MT |
#23
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Published data...
OK,
Let's look at published data by GKN-Lobro. GS = Gear Side = INNER CV Joint WS = Wheel Side = OUTER CV Joint BMW E53 X5: ---> OUTER CV O.D. = 92 mm, thread is 27-mm type. Volvo XC90 (2003-2015 series): ---> OUTER CV O.D. = 95 mm, thread is 10-mm type. (Ignore the 10-mm thing b/c XC90 uses the small bolt, not a nut, at the end of axle). ---
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1998 E39 528i 5sp MT 2006 E53 X5 3.0 6sp MT |
#24
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Like in the building trade, a 2x4 is not 2" x 4" but is actually 1.625" x 3.625". 2x4 is the nominal dimensions not the actual dimension same with 2" round steel tubing or pipe. Here's a website that tells you what diameter hole you need for a M27 bolt to be in order for it to fit. Mechanical: Clearance holes for Metric Screws You will not use the tight fit since you do not want the CV joint to be stuck in the tools. You will use the "Free fit" so that the cv joint can be pulled out. As you can see you need a hole that is 32mm which is a lot bigger than 30 or 29.75. If you don't want to believe me that just fine with me. Perhaps I'm just going to stop posting on this forum.
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2006 Infiniti G35 2001 BMW 3.0I E53 X5 Build date 08/2000 SOLD Lotus Europa 1970 Destroyed by fire Lotus Europa 1970 S2 Renault Powered Lotus Type 52 1970 Twincam Webers Powered PORSCHE 911 Targa 1982 The Garage Queen Audi Avant donated to Kars for Kids BMW 525IT Sold Audi 4000CS Quattro Sold Jensen Healey Lotus Powered Sold Opel 1900 Sold Triumph Spitfire 1971 Sold Triumph Spitfire 1968 Sold Plymouth "Cuda" 340 Six pack SOLD |
#25
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2006 Infiniti G35 2001 BMW 3.0I E53 X5 Build date 08/2000 SOLD Lotus Europa 1970 Destroyed by fire Lotus Europa 1970 S2 Renault Powered Lotus Type 52 1970 Twincam Webers Powered PORSCHE 911 Targa 1982 The Garage Queen Audi Avant donated to Kars for Kids BMW 525IT Sold Audi 4000CS Quattro Sold Jensen Healey Lotus Powered Sold Opel 1900 Sold Triumph Spitfire 1971 Sold Triumph Spitfire 1968 Sold Plymouth "Cuda" 340 Six pack SOLD |
#26
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Quote:
The spline portion of the CV joint will not fit into that 30mm hole.
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2006 Infiniti G35 2001 BMW 3.0I E53 X5 Build date 08/2000 SOLD Lotus Europa 1970 Destroyed by fire Lotus Europa 1970 S2 Renault Powered Lotus Type 52 1970 Twincam Webers Powered PORSCHE 911 Targa 1982 The Garage Queen Audi Avant donated to Kars for Kids BMW 525IT Sold Audi 4000CS Quattro Sold Jensen Healey Lotus Powered Sold Opel 1900 Sold Triumph Spitfire 1971 Sold Triumph Spitfire 1968 Sold Plymouth "Cuda" 340 Six pack SOLD Last edited by upallnight; 04-29-2017 at 06:49 PM. |
#27
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OK,
Everyone has his own opinion. I believe you, but I just want to state the facts. The definition of a metric bolt diameter is the measurement from crest to crest (= Major Diameter) in the photo below. So an M27 thread has crest-to-crest diameter of 27 mm. I do not have an axle lying around, but I have an M27 BMW nut, and I just measured the I.D. of this nut = 25 mm (I.D. of this nut = Minor Diameter), this confirms to me that the threaded portion of the X5 axle is 27 mm. Anyway, the definitive test is for someone to play with this toy and report back. For $20, what do you have to lose (other than $20)? PS: upallnight you even posted on bimmerfest a year ago that you used this very tool to remove the CV joint, I am confused! Here you go: replacing outer cv joint boot on the front of x5 - Bimmerfest - BMW Forums ---
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1998 E39 528i 5sp MT 2006 E53 X5 3.0 6sp MT |
#28
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I used that tool to pop off CV joints on other cars to reboot them, but when I went to use it on my X I found out that the CV joint would not fit the tool. I just assume like you that you could use the tool on our X.
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2006 Infiniti G35 2001 BMW 3.0I E53 X5 Build date 08/2000 SOLD Lotus Europa 1970 Destroyed by fire Lotus Europa 1970 S2 Renault Powered Lotus Type 52 1970 Twincam Webers Powered PORSCHE 911 Targa 1982 The Garage Queen Audi Avant donated to Kars for Kids BMW 525IT Sold Audi 4000CS Quattro Sold Jensen Healey Lotus Powered Sold Opel 1900 Sold Triumph Spitfire 1971 Sold Triumph Spitfire 1968 Sold Plymouth "Cuda" 340 Six pack SOLD |
#29
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Quote:
Correct, the nut is M27. I took a random photo of X5 E53 axle from the web to show the anatomy. The threaded section will go through the 30-mm hole and the splined section will certainly get stuck, but you can easily re-position the tool! Anyway, someone needs to play with this tool on the X5 and report back...
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1998 E39 528i 5sp MT 2006 E53 X5 3.0 6sp MT |
#30
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But here, the clearance hole thing is not relevant. An M27 screw will have a major diameter of about 26.97mm. It will fit in a 27.00mm hole if allowed to align itself. A 28mm hole will seem huge. A 29.75mm hole is gigantic. Definitely not a problem for the M27 threaded portion. A clearance hole (again, not relevant here) is the diameter of a hole that will clear the screw but not clear the head. So if it is a 36 mm nut, technically anything from about 27mm to 36mm would work as a clearance hole. But then for practical reasons of binding/alignment you want a little more. If you had multiple holes that all had to line up, you'd want something bigger than the minimum to provide a tolerance for that. But here, there is one hole, one screw, and it is practically self-aligning. 29.75mm is plenty to clear the threaded section. From looking at the photo cn90 provided, it looks like the splined section will definitely be a problem. To make this tool work, first, it may only be possible to get one or two turns of threads on, and then it would need to be re-positioned frequently. I can believe that maybe what looks to be feasible but difficult might actually be impossible due to threads being beveled, or other minor factors, so that by the time threading it on starts to load up and apply force on the joint, it is already hitting the splined section before anything can move. If true, then it would be useless. So I can definitely believe that you tried this exact (clone) tool and it would not work. Thanks for reporting that. But maybe foolish optimisim makes me think that maybe trying a little harder may have made it possible. How many times is it reported on here that it is impossible to remove the rear suspension lower ball joints with a PepBoys rental bushing press? (answer = everywhere, and it is commonly understood to be impossible) Except that I did it myself. Not that I would recommend it to anyone, or do it again myself ...
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2001 X5 3.0i, 203k miles, AT, owned since 2014 |
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