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  #31  
Old 04-30-2017, 11:51 AM
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Here's a couple of pictures why the tools doesn't work on pulling a BMW CV joint off the axle.

The Spline of the CV joint is approximately 32mm in diameter


The hole that is in the tools is approximate 29.8mm

Now if you can fit 5 lb of shit in a 1 lb bag maybe you can make it work.

The last picture is how far you can get the cv joint into the tool before it won't fit. Not enough thread to even get the nut on, and if you did, you will be stripping the threads in the nut or shaft or both.

Hope this help answer all the naysayer question about using this tool..
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Last edited by upallnight; 05-23-2017 at 03:54 PM.
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  #32  
Old 05-23-2017, 10:46 PM
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I wonder if one can place the Nut inside the tool as shown, then leave a gap of let's say 1" between the nut and the round part of the tool and use a pair of channel lock pliers to squeeze and in the process of doing that pull the CV joint outward (hey, you gotta be creative...)...Just wondering...
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Last edited by cn90; 05-23-2017 at 11:03 PM.
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  #33  
Old 05-24-2017, 02:01 AM
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upallnight, thanks for the photos. Very convincing, and if you look back one page, it seems to be exactly as I had expected based on the information we had at the time:

"it looks like the splined section will definitely be a problem. To make this tool work, first, it may only be possible to get one or two turns of threads on, and then it would need to be re-positioned frequently. I can believe that maybe what looks to be feasible but difficult might actually be impossible due to threads being beveled, or other minor factors, so that by the time threading it on starts to load up and apply force on the joint, it is already hitting the splined section before anything can move."

I expect every other CV joint I have will be smaller than this one, so there's hope for this tool other than ballast.

But I like cn90's idea above, but I'd use Knipex Pliers Wrenches, one on each side (I've got a 12" and a couple of 10" ones). Those supposedly have 10:1 leverage, and have smooth, parallel surfaces, so the nut would not be damaged and it might stay aligned better. Or not? I'll certainly give it a try and report back if I ever take off a CV joint on this truck.
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  #34  
Old 05-24-2017, 10:25 AM
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Ah hell, I bought this tool last year, intending to use it for the expected cv boot repairs that are part of owning an e53 or e46 xi. Well, at least I have something to hold papers down when it is windy or keep a door from closing.
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  #35  
Old 05-24-2017, 11:27 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cn90 View Post
I wonder if one can place the Nut inside the tool as shown, then leave a gap of let's say 1" between the nut and the round part of the tool and use a pair of channel lock pliers to squeeze and in the process of doing that pull the CV joint outward (hey, you gotta be creative...)...Just wondering...
You may be able to push the CV joint back onto the axle with putting the nut below the tool, but doing it this way will only push the tool upward which in turn will pull the axle into the joint, not separate the joint from the axle.

The best way and easiest way to put the joint back onto the axle is spin the axle nut flush with the axle, insert the axle into the joint and make sure the ends of the clip is in the groove of the axle. Take the entire assembly and smack the axle nut into the concrete pavement. Work first time, every time.
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2006 Infiniti G35
2001 BMW 3.0I E53 X5 Build date 08/2000 SOLD
Lotus Europa 1970 Destroyed by fire
Lotus Europa 1970 S2 Renault Powered
Lotus Type 52 1970 Twincam Webers Powered
PORSCHE 911 Targa 1982 The Garage Queen
Audi Avant donated to Kars for Kids
BMW 525IT Sold
Audi 4000CS Quattro Sold
Jensen Healey Lotus Powered Sold
Opel 1900 Sold
Triumph Spitfire 1971 Sold
Triumph Spitfire 1968 Sold
Plymouth "Cuda" 340 Six pack SOLD
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  #36  
Old 05-24-2017, 11:29 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by squidzilla View Post
Ah hell, I bought this tool last year, intending to use it for the expected cv boot repairs that are part of owning an e53 or e46 xi. Well, at least I have something to hold papers down when it is windy or keep a door from closing.
Get yourself a Toyota minivan, works fine on our Toyota Sienna.
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2006 Infiniti G35
2001 BMW 3.0I E53 X5 Build date 08/2000 SOLD
Lotus Europa 1970 Destroyed by fire
Lotus Europa 1970 S2 Renault Powered
Lotus Type 52 1970 Twincam Webers Powered
PORSCHE 911 Targa 1982 The Garage Queen
Audi Avant donated to Kars for Kids
BMW 525IT Sold
Audi 4000CS Quattro Sold
Jensen Healey Lotus Powered Sold
Opel 1900 Sold
Triumph Spitfire 1971 Sold
Triumph Spitfire 1968 Sold
Plymouth "Cuda" 340 Six pack SOLD
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  #37  
Old 06-20-2017, 08:05 PM
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After some thinking, I just came up with this idea (have NOT tried it yet, but I think it should work), but just want to run the idea by you guys to see what people think...

- Get a Tie Rod Puller, my favorite is the KD 5-ton puller.

- Clamp the CV Joint in such a way that the CV joint's end is completely inside the CV Joint Tool. Install the 36-mm nut.

- Then use the Tie Rod Puller to pull the CV joint as shown (basically a socket to cover the bolt's end, and the jaws grab onto the 36-mm nut):


---
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  #38  
Old 06-20-2017, 08:51 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cn90 View Post
After some thinking, I just came up with this idea (have NOT tried it yet, but I think it should work), but just want to run the idea by you guys to see what people think...

- Get a Tie Rod Puller, my favorite is the KD 5-ton puller.

- Clamp the CV Joint in such a way that the CV joint's end is completely inside the CV Joint Tool. Install the 36-mm nut.

- Then use the Tie Rod Puller to pull the CV joint as shown (basically a socket to cover the bolt's end, and the jaws grab onto the 36-mm nut):


---
Could work. Let us know if it does.
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  #39  
Old 12-12-2018, 02:11 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cn90 View Post
I wonder if one can place the Nut inside the tool as shown, then leave a gap of let's say 1" between the nut and the round part of the tool and use a pair of channel lock pliers to squeeze and in the process of doing that pull the CV joint outward (hey, you gotta be creative...)...Just wondering...
What about reaming the hole of the tool so it fits? Looks like you would only need to open it up 3mm. That means you're only removing 1.5mm of material.
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  #40  
Old 12-13-2018, 08:34 AM
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Certainly boring the hole is the answer however it is also the problem. Meaning you must have a drill bit that size in order to make that happen. Perhaps a step drill would work I would have to look into that. The material removed would probably not compromise the tool based on the what forces are being applied to that area.
T
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