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  #61  
Old 12-30-2018, 02:51 PM
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"I thought all the discussion here about this tool was if you wanted to carefully separate the outer joint, after you've removed it from the hub/spindle/carrier."

The idea is to be able to leave the half shaft in place and replace the outer boot. You don't have to touch the inner boot that way. Everything stays on the car, except the outer CV, of course.
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  #62  
Old 12-30-2018, 03:38 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Fifty150hs View Post
"I thought all the discussion here about this tool was if you wanted to carefully separate the outer joint, after you've removed it from the hub/spindle/carrier."

The idea is to be able to leave the half shaft in place and replace the outer boot. You don't have to touch the inner boot that way. Everything stays on the car, except the outer CV, of course.
Right. But as upallnight suggests, and as I did, you don't need to remove the entire outer CV joint from the carrier if all you want is to replace one or both boots. You don't need to touch the axle nut, etc.

You could leave the inner joint in place (I did remove it, but that was unnecessary - I had planned to remove the inner joint and leave the entire outer joint untouched). Leave the outer part of the outer joint in place - still firmly held in the carrier with its splines and axle nut. The inner part of the outer joint is held to the outer part of the outer joint with a little c-ring in a rectangular groove in the splined shaft. In many (most?) cases that can just be easily popped out, either with upallnight's drift + hammer solution, or by my slide hammer unintentional solution.

I believe the only solution that would actually benefit from this tool is to not pop the outer joint apart, but rather to remove the axle nut, get the outer part of the outer joint out of the carrier, and then use this special tool to separate the two main parts of the outer joint from eachother. I guess you would do that if you prefer a kinder gentler approach on the joint (), or if the hammering does not work. The main reason I (and others?) would NOT want to follow that approach is that it involves the axle nut and separating the CV joint from the carrier. Could be easy, could be a project. So avoiding it is primarily for risk reduction.

BTW, from looking at that c-ring and the groove - the thing that needs to release when separating the joint into two parts - I can see that getting it aligned before hammering or pulling hard would be helpful or necessary. So to align it, putting some tension on it while rotating the wheel should allow the c-ring to basically center itself rather than having part of it deep in that rectangular channel.
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  #63  
Old 12-30-2018, 07:20 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by oldskewel View Post
... BTW, from looking at that c-ring and the groove - the thing that needs to release when separating the joint into two parts - I can see that getting it aligned before hammering or pulling hard would be helpful or necessary. So to align it, putting some tension on it while rotating the wheel should allow the c-ring to basically center itself rather than having part of it deep in that rectangular channel.
Bingo - that is key to successfully removing the axle from the outer CV joint - applying a pulling tension to the joint, then the shock of the tap (hit) will jar the axle free - it just pops out. Hard to explain but once you've figured it out and done it once, you'll never do an E53 outer boot any other way!
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  #64  
Old 12-30-2018, 09:35 PM
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Some guys say the inboard side will "pop right out" as well. Not always the case.
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  #65  
Old 12-30-2018, 11:22 PM
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Got into my CV boot replacement project today. Got the axle nut off and can't get the splined shaft out of the hub. No amount of beating will budge it. This has caused me to think if it's this difficult to get out, how hard will it be to get it back in. I've reread the posts on this and other threads about being able to pop the outer CV without removing the axle nut. My concern is if I get it off that way, how hard is it to get it back on? I don't have help so that's a complicating factor. Right now I think I will put everything back together, tape the boot to the shaft as suggested and look closer at using sticky boots. This truck is my daily driver and if something goes wrong with a repair I'm screwed.
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  #66  
Old 12-31-2018, 12:06 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Fifty150hs View Post
Got into my CV boot replacement project today. Got the axle nut off and can't get the splined shaft out of the hub. No amount of beating will budge it. This has caused me to think if it's this difficult to get out, how hard will it be to get it back in. I've reread the posts on this and other threads about being able to pop the outer CV without removing the axle nut. My concern is if I get it off that way, how hard is it to get it back on? I don't have help so that's a complicating factor. Right now I think I will put everything back together, tape the boot to the shaft as suggested and look closer at using sticky boots. This truck is my daily driver and if something goes wrong with a repair I'm screwed.

PB Blaster, heat and if you have access to a hub puller that should pop the CV joint out of the hub. I'm surprised that a California X would have a problem with removing the axle from a hub. Rust between the CV spline and the hub is what prevents it from coming out

Once you clean the rust off the cv shaft and the hub and lubricate it, it should slide right back on.
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  #67  
Old 12-31-2018, 12:12 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by upallnight View Post
PB Blaster, heat and if you have access to a hub puller that should pop the CV joint out of the hub. I'm surprised that a California X would have a problem with removing the axle from a hub. Rust between the CV spline and the hub is what prevents it from coming out

Once you clean the rust off the cv shaft and the hub and lubricate it, it should slide right back on.
I have hit it with PB blaster. I'm going to get after it again tomorrow. Ill rent a three jaw puller and see how it goes. This X spent 3 years in Boulder, CO so, not sure how much salt it saw, but it definitely got up to the snow regularly during that time. Haven't really had other issues with rust though, so I'm thinking not much salt.
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  #68  
Old 12-31-2018, 12:13 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by oldskewel View Post
Right. But as upallnight suggests, and as I did, you don't need to remove the entire outer CV joint from the carrier if all you want is to replace one or both boots. You don't need to touch the axle nut, etc.

You could leave the inner joint in place (I did remove it, but that was unnecessary - I had planned to remove the inner joint and leave the entire outer joint untouched). Leave the outer part of the outer joint in place - still firmly held in the carrier with its splines and axle nut. The inner part of the outer joint is held to the outer part of the outer joint with a little c-ring in a rectangular groove in the splined shaft. In many (most?) cases that can just be easily popped out, either with upallnight's drift + hammer solution, or by my slide hammer unintentional solution.

I believe the only solution that would actually benefit from this tool is to not pop the outer joint apart, but rather to remove the axle nut, get the outer part of the outer joint out of the carrier, and then use this special tool to separate the two main parts of the outer joint from eachother. I guess you would do that if you prefer a kinder gentler approach on the joint (), or if the hammering does not work. The main reason I (and others?) would NOT want to follow that approach is that it involves the axle nut and separating the CV joint from the carrier. Could be easy, could be a project. So avoiding it is primarily for risk reduction.

BTW, from looking at that c-ring and the groove - the thing that needs to release when separating the joint into two parts - I can see that getting it aligned before hammering or pulling hard would be helpful or necessary. So to align it, putting some tension on it while rotating the wheel should allow the c-ring to basically center itself rather than having part of it deep in that rectangular channel.
This method always worked for me.

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Lotus Europa 1970 Destroyed by fire
Lotus Europa 1970 S2 Renault Powered
Lotus Type 52 1970 Twincam Webers Powered
PORSCHE 911 Targa 1982 The Garage Queen
Audi Avant donated to Kars for Kids
BMW 525IT Sold
Audi 4000CS Quattro Sold
Jensen Healey Lotus Powered Sold
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Triumph Spitfire 1971 Sold
Triumph Spitfire 1968 Sold
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  #69  
Old 12-31-2018, 12:22 AM
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I use a Snapon hub puller that I use for pushing the cv joint out of the hub. I find that it is easier to keep the puller center once you bolt it onto the hub.
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2006 Infiniti G35
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Lotus Europa 1970 Destroyed by fire
Lotus Europa 1970 S2 Renault Powered
Lotus Type 52 1970 Twincam Webers Powered
PORSCHE 911 Targa 1982 The Garage Queen
Audi Avant donated to Kars for Kids
BMW 525IT Sold
Audi 4000CS Quattro Sold
Jensen Healey Lotus Powered Sold
Opel 1900 Sold
Triumph Spitfire 1971 Sold
Triumph Spitfire 1968 Sold
Plymouth "Cuda" 340 Six pack SOLD
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  #70  
Old 12-31-2018, 12:34 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by upallnight View Post
I use a Snapon hub puller that I use for pushing the cv joint out of the hub. I find that it is easier to keep the puller center once you bolt it onto the hub.
I rented one of these from Autozone. Not sure if it's the same dimensions as the Snap-on one, but the rental unit wouldn't fit over the center of the hub and its slots weren't large enough to allow the lug bolts to pass through. That's why I'll try the three jaw puller tomorrow.
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