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  #41  
Old 09-30-2017, 05:13 PM
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Originally Posted by wpoll View Post
Sure can try but let us know what exact stereo/Nav etc. config you have. You mentioned having a MID, so there is no Nav? CD player above the MID? Amps in trunk well on the left or next to the battery under the spare?

Once we know what you have, we can point you in the right direction.
Basic stereo that came with the car w/CD player above the radio/MID. No amps in trunk well on the left nor next to the battery. See attached photo.
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  #42  
Old 09-30-2017, 05:37 PM
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Originally Posted by HotWheelsRedline View Post
Hey Guys - I'm new to this forum. Have been on BimmerForums since 2007 for my 1998 M3 e36 vert and my wife's 2005 X5 e53 SAV -- but learned this forum digs deeper into the X5. I've searched for parasitic battery drain threads and found lots of theories (FSU, NAV, TSU, Aux Fan, Radio, gear shift light/sleep mode, etc.)

Our X5 has a parasitic battery drain that started June 5th. Replaced the dead BMW battery (don't know if orig, we're 2nd owner) and alternator tested fine, so thought we were good to go. June 27th, car won't start again -- jumped, runs fine. July 8th, no start -- this time alternator showing drain. Replaced (115K-mile) alternator with new Bosch. July 19th, no battery power again. Thru all of this, never any warning lights on dash.

Re-charged the battery. With multi-meter bridging disconnected neg battery cable/terminal, and all power off, still reads a draw of .40 amps. Pulled/replaced all fuses in glove box and trunk while watching meter for any drop to normal, but nothing.

Now my friend/indy mechanic is checking it. Has ruled out the radio, Aux fan, TCU, FSU, NAV, sleep mode. Today says it may be the electronic trunk latch and is doing further testing. Fortunately, he's not charging me by the hour for diagnostic and gave me a free loaner 325ci.

Can anyone weigh-in with other theories/thoughts? Thanks much.



FOR THE RECORD
Sometimes they screw up the battery when they are making it. In my life, 65 years, I have managed to buy two or three batteries that were defective. The point here is to not point crooked fingers at the car until you know that the battery is not the problem.
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  #43  
Old 09-30-2017, 06:12 PM
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Originally Posted by jdstrickland View Post
FOR THE RECORD
Sometimes they screw up the battery when they are making it. In my life, 65 years, I have managed to buy two or three batteries that were defective. The point here is to not point crooked fingers at the car until you know that the battery is not the problem.
Good point. The two batteries put in since this all started are from AAA, and I've heard not-so-good stories about AAA batteries. I have an Interstate battery in my e36 M3 convertible (I think I recognize your username from that Bimmer forum), and have had good service from it. Perhaps I should swap-out for an Interstate and see what happens....
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  #44  
Old 10-01-2017, 04:41 AM
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Good point about the battery but it's already been proven that the quiescent drain is too high and that isn't caused by a fault battery. It's also very easy to eliminate the audio systems (and it's free!).

There's a ton of videos etc. on how to remove the MID and CD player from the dash - just google it - but basically you remove the MID volume know (straight pull) then using a T9 (I think) torx driver, gently turn the MID retainer screw in the small hole below the volume know shaft (you can this hole see once you remove the knob) a 1/4 turn anti-clockwise. This will allow the MID to be pulled from the left side out of the dash and you can then remove it's connector.

The CD player (which includes the radio and the power amplifier) has a couple of torx retaining screws visible once the MID is removed and then just pulls straight out. You can then remove it's connectors too.

The CD stacker in the trunk (if you have one) has a cable connector on the rear I think.

Removing these units and then testing the quiescent current (once the car is asleep) should help you eliminate the source of the drain.
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  #45  
Old 10-01-2017, 04:18 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by wpoll View Post
Good point about the battery but it's already been proven that the quiescent drain is too high and that isn't caused by a fault battery. It's also very easy to eliminate the audio systems (and it's free!).

There's a ton of videos etc. on how to remove the MID and CD player from the dash - just google it - but basically you remove the MID volume know (straight pull) then using a T9 (I think) torx driver, gently turn the MID retainer screw in the small hole below the volume know shaft (you can this hole see once you remove the knob) a 1/4 turn anti-clockwise. This will allow the MID to be pulled from the left side out of the dash and you can then remove it's connector.

The CD player (which includes the radio and the power amplifier) has a couple of torx retaining screws visible once the MID is removed and then just pulls straight out. You can then remove it's connectors too.

The CD stacker in the trunk (if you have one) has a cable connector on the rear I think.

Removing these units and then testing the quiescent current (once the car is asleep) should help you eliminate the source of the drain.
Can't you just pull the fuses for these?
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  #46  
Old 10-01-2017, 04:24 PM
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Originally Posted by Fifty150hs View Post
Can't you just pull the fuses for these?
Yes - Fuse 75 - and pulling it removes the drain. But now HotWheelsRedline needs to track down which one (or more) of the several devices that Fuse 75 feeds is causing the drain.
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  #47  
Old 10-01-2017, 06:46 PM
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I bought a device that plugs in place of the fuse and shows the current real time. You would have to leave the window open to see after the car goes into sleep mode


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  #48  
Old 10-01-2017, 11:01 PM
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Thanks "wpoll" -- of course, I've previously taken the radio/MID out of the dash, and it is simple. As soon as I have time, I'll give this a shot and see if the culprit shows its face! No player in the trunk, so I guess that narrows it to either the Business CD Player or the Radio/MID.
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  #49  
Old 10-08-2017, 07:04 PM
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Eureka! For those of you following this thread, I've pinpointed the culprit of my parasitic battery drain -- the Radio/MID.

With Fuse 75 re-installed -- when I disconnected the Radio/MID with the car asleep, the reading dropped from .14 amp to .02 amp.

Needless to say, I'm going to have a conversation with the two shops that couldn't locate the problem, especially the one that was 90% sure it was the Instrument Cluster. Fortunately, I only spent $115 on their diagnostic and didn't go any further.

Thanks to all who chimed-in with ideas and advice!
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  #50  
Old 10-08-2017, 07:08 PM
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Wonder what broke in the radio to make it "stay on".


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