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  #81  
Old 10-10-2017, 10:56 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by amancuso View Post
Don't know if anyone added this, but have you checked all the grounds in the car?
No this hasn't been mentioned. Could you tell me a little more detail on this?
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  #82  
Old 10-11-2017, 05:00 AM
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Are you ignoring wpoll for a reason?

He's told you what to do, countless times.
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  #83  
Old 10-11-2017, 07:52 AM
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Diagnosing Voltage Drops - Electrical Automotive Troubleshooting
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  #84  
Old 10-11-2017, 01:13 PM
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OP- strongly suggest you stay on a single issue until it is resolved. If you have another issue start another thread. Don't buy parts until the cause is verified by a commonly used order of troubleshooting. Not all member suggestions are accurate, your judgement is vital. Stop doing everything suggested. There is a lot of misinformation in every thread, that is certainly true in this thread. In almost every thread there is a rush to judgment before doing he appropriate troubleshooting--great way to spend money on parts you didn't need. Remember that even if someone states their credentials we have no idea if it is true. Also, there are even bad brain surgeons.

When you have a starting issues the first step is to verify the battery is not the problem. If you do that you will keep yourself from lots of pain, suffering, confusion, time and money.

When a battery sits for an extended period of time they discharge to the extent that the battery must go through a recondition cycle. If that has not been done the battery will show that it is charged but not hold a charge and won't performance as it should even if it shows a full charge on a multimeter it may not start the engine or crank slowly and show very low voltage after a few hours. If it starts, no matter how long it runs with a good alternator the starting and holding charge issues won't be corrected.

The more expensive battery chargers have a recondition cycle. They will also load test the battery which is the best way to check a battery. Another way is to recondition a battery is to connect it to another vehicle and leave it connected for 24 yours. During that time don't start either vehicle.

Unfortunately reconditioning doesn't always work. More often than not the battery needs to be replaced. Many places that sell batteries can do a load test and have a charger that will do a reconditioning cycle.

There is a huge difference between measuring voltage and a realistic order of troubleshooting that verifies the core issue. In my opinion, purchasing the alternator was premature. I would not be surprised if the old alternator was fine.

Once again, eliminate the battery as the cause of your problem-NOW. What you have done thus far has not eliminated the battery as the problem. Yes, I know you bought a new battery.
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Last edited by bcredliner; 10-11-2017 at 01:35 PM.
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  #85  
Old 10-11-2017, 02:19 PM
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+1 on you need to test the battery. Actually that's what I already suggested. A bad battery will measure full voltage but upon demand of current it will drop to "totally dead". Since the primary symptom is "won't crank without jump" that is specifically battery. Resolve what problem with the battery exists before going to the next problem.


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  #86  
Old 10-11-2017, 03:10 PM
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I can vouch for the shows full voltage and wont crank with a bad battery. I have a battery right now that was in my excursion. All my battery chargers show its full. It measures 12.6 volts after sitting for awhile and 13 volts when first coming off a charger. It wont even crank my lawn mower. Any load and it goes to 10 volts.

So like mentioned above if it wont crank except when jumped off its probably going to be the battery. The only other thing I have ever seen cause that is a bad starter but that is a rare possibility.
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  #87  
Old 10-11-2017, 03:51 PM
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mcfee03, I know you said you replaced the battery a few months back - is that battery the battery you still have?

I've seen new batteries get killed in similar circumstances to yours, but I'm also curious, what battery did you get? Something like this?



Century Car Battery - DIN85L MF, 780 CCA - Supercheap Auto

This SCA battery is what would be considered the minimum battery for an X5. Anything smaller than this (or cheaper) won't cut it.

As I'm guessing you don't want to take another $250 hit and get another battery to find out if the current battery is at fault, maybe you can borrow a charger from someone. If you can do so, and then give your existing battery a decent 12-15h hour charge, you may then find out a bit more information about your current battery.

It may be OK after that charge and work fine for years.

It may start the car once or twice after the charge but a few hours or days later appears to be flat again. This usually indicates a bad battery but can also be caused by a bad alternator. Been down that road, huh? :-) Your alternator (having just been replaced) can likely be assumed to be OK.

It may appear charged when taken off the charger but fail to start the car - dead cell in the battery. This is usually fatal but sometime can be rectified by a special conditioning charger.

Like others have said, it's time to tackle one thing at a time. You have a battery issue - that much is very obvious to all. You will need to resolve that before even thinking about anything else.

Good Luck...
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  #88  
Old 10-11-2017, 03:54 PM
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PS. Don't know anyone with a battery charger? Then just spend the $60 and get this....

SCA Smart Battery Charger - 3 Stage, 12 Volt, 6 Amp - Supercheap Auto

Pretty decent charger for only $60 (on sale).
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  #89  
Old 10-11-2017, 05:13 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by andrewwynn View Post
+1 on you need to test the battery. Actually that's what I already suggested. A bad battery will measure full voltage but upon demand of current it will drop to "totally dead". Since the primary symptom is "won't crank without jump" that is specifically battery. Resolve what problem with the battery exists before going to the next problem.



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Even bad batteries don't drop to totally dead from what appears to be a full charge when a load is put on them. Nor is it conclusive the battery is bad if it won't crank without a jump. The alternator output and will drop below normal if the RPMs drop too far below normal idle or if the belt is too loose. That voltage level the alternator is putting out will show on the cluster. so that does not always mean the battery is bad either.

To find out if a battery is good or bad it should be load tested. A proper load test can't be done unless the battery is fully charged. Fully charged means cold cranking and residual amps are at battery specs not just a surface charge.

New batteries can be bad out of the box and some stores don't load test them before selling. If I have confirmed the battery is bad and purchase a new one and the problem is not gone, I don't look elsewhere until I have tested the new battery. I have even had the seller tell me the battery they just sold me tested good when I had tested it on my own and confirmed it was bad. If you are having a starting issue, have the battery professionally tested or test it that same way. To test a battery you need the proper equipment. Connecting a multimeter, reading voltage from the cluster or charging it to see what happens is only directional. The outcomes don't verify the battery is bad.

Always take the battery completely out of the equation first.
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  #90  
Old 10-11-2017, 05:24 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by wpoll View Post
mcfee03, I know you said you replaced the battery a few months back - is that battery the battery you still have?

I've seen new batteries get killed in similar circumstances to yours, but I'm also curious, what battery did you get? Something like this?



Century Car Battery - DIN85L MF, 780 CCA - Supercheap Auto

This SCA battery is what would be considered the minimum battery for an X5. Anything smaller than this (or cheaper) won't cut it.

As I'm guessing you don't want to take another $250 hit and get another battery to find out if the current battery is at fault, maybe you can borrow a charger from someone. If you can do so, and then give your existing battery a decent 12-15h hour charge, you may then find out a bit more information about your current battery.

It may be OK after that charge and work fine for years.

It may start the car once or twice after the charge but a few hours or days later appears to be flat again. This usually indicates a bad battery but can also be caused by a bad alternator. Been down that road, huh? :-) Your alternator (having just been replaced) can likely be assumed to be OK.

It may appear charged when taken off the charger but fail to start the car - dead cell in the battery. This is usually fatal but sometime can be rectified by a special conditioning charger.

Like others have said, it's time to tackle one thing at a time. You have a battery issue - that much is very obvious to all. You will need to resolve that before even thinking about anything else.

Good Luck...
I think it is far from clear to all the battery is bad. It does appear the battery is bad but there are other possible causes. Even if it were obvious to all OP should not replace the battery until it has been verified it is bad by a proper testing procedure.
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