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  #11  
Old 10-16-2017, 03:58 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by scourtaud23 View Post
Thanks for the tips, I think I'll go with seicane once the mechanical side is done

I'll give the mechanical fan a chance now I bought the part and see if the electric one is needed.


I ordered the lambda probes this morning so once they arrive I'll do some more diagnosis.
Mechanical fan will be fine.
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  #12  
Old 10-16-2017, 05:23 PM
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Here is the video I took of the Idle Dip issue I'm having as well as INPA status screens in case someone can spot something wrong.

I can't seem to embed it so here's the link : https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=tWJq2FancZs
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  #13  
Old 10-19-2017, 06:06 PM
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Quick update, I did a little work this evening :

- Engine oil change
- Thermal oil level sensor replaced (it gave an error on PA Soft)
- Front brake pads (still some material but they squeeked and I didn't know their age or mileage or provenance). (rears are next)

It went smoothly and now the car doesn't beep at me when I turn it on (I'm guessing it was its way of telling me the sensor was out).

I have one or more leak from the power steering, I'm going to clean it all up and chang all the gasket rings for new ones and see if I can solve it easily. In the meantime, I topped it up with Dextron III ATF from castrol.
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  #14  
Old 10-22-2017, 06:29 PM
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Another quick update, I've changed both pre-cat lambda (O2) sensors and that code is now gone.

I had recieved my fan clutch so I went to change it and discovered the new one doesn't fit the fan (mine has no plastic circle around it) and the screws are placed differently. A bit of research and it appears either I have the wrong fan on BMW changed the part without telling me or my car. I'll have to order the new fan design monday since I can't find the old clutch anywhere.
Of course the fan that was going bad is getting worse and now is almost seized and my car sounds like a plane.

I had a new issue twice, "134 Test lower at stop" as INPA says, Each time the engine went in "Engine failsafe program" and would stay there. It only does it cold after sitting for over 15 hours (night). When this flashed, the idle would hover around 1000 RPM and the gas pedal would do nothing.
It didn't do it with the engine warm, event after sitting for a few hours. The weather got colder this week.

Since when I clear the code everything works fine and I've done long trips and short ones in between and after both instances, I am accusing the battery (dated 2012). I read somewhere there is a Terminal box close to the battery so I'll check that first but I think a new battery would be a good thing since even while driving it never gets to 14 volts and values show between 13.1 and 13.8 driving, 10.8v after crank (as recorded by OBD). More on this during the week but I'm keeping INPA with me while driving.

Last but not least, I'me extremely perplexed by the coils, I've tried unplugging them while the engine is running, it makes no noticeable difference having one unplugged or plugged back in. Either the DME is really good, or my plugs are all in a bad shape and only offer weak sparks. I also tried swapping coils but didn't offer any real change on the smoothness screen or idle dip.

I also found out the "rough/smoothness" screeen on INPA is wrongly labeled. It shows cylinders in the firing order but unplugging coils showed the bars becomming black in cylinder order (1 to 8), no matter what the label said except for cylinders 3 and 4 that were reversed. Its a bit of a mystery as of right now but the engine runs well and clearly has no dead cylinders so I'm believing this is an INPA issue and not an ignition issue.

I couldn't check the plugs since my plug tool was too wide to fit in the holes so I'm ordering NGK plugs and the right tool and will change them all as it can't hurt.

I also checked the vanos values in INPA with someone driving and it is obviously working and being seen as changing by the camshaft position sensors so for now I'm ignoring it as a possible issue.

That's about it with the updates, I'm not done with it but piece by piece I'm making progress.
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  #15  
Old 10-22-2017, 06:36 PM
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I had the same issue. https://xoutpost.com/bmw-sav-forums/...conundrum.html
Had to order the matching fan.
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  #16  
Old 10-22-2017, 06:45 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jcp240z View Post
I had the same issue. https://xoutpost.com/bmw-sav-forums/...conundrum.html
Had to order the matching fan.
Thanks for the input, I feel less alone with this absurd issue... I'm just going to call a dealer tomorrow to get a price on the fan and if the price difference is small enough with online ordering I'll get it faster. Its so anoying these kind of things.
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  #17  
Old 10-26-2017, 03:44 AM
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I've changed the fan, my Idle is a bit higher now for some reason around 700rpm. Maybe the old one was putting extra load on the engine and it needs to learn its not there anymore.
The engine is now way quieter and there is less vibration in the pedals or steering wheel at idle.

I've also discovered my battery is dying, the last few days of cold got it over the edge. Right now after a few hours of sleep, having just unlocked the car, I got 11.7 volts and with ignition on got 11.3 volts.
The next day after having driven for 30 minutes, I got 11.3v ignition off...

I went to BMW, they told me 450 CHF for a battery, I ordered one online for 125 delivered... I don't get how they price parts since some are around the same price as they are online and others a 3 times more expensive.

I also discovered my Fan Shroud was at some point broken and glued back together so I just ordered that. I'll do the belts at the same time since I sometime hear a squeak when the car shifts in "sport".

And finally, the plugs have arrived so I'm going to change them this weekend.
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  #18  
Old 11-20-2017, 05:11 PM
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Another update, I've changed the plugs, the fan shroud and my battery.

I've also discovered the TestO software and despite having not had time to play with everything, I found out my bank 2 camshaft sensor signal was sometimes interrupted so I've ordered both camshaft sensor and the crankshaft sensor for good measure since they work on the same principle and are the same age.

I also saw that my actual RPM is higher than target RPM all over the range so that's a mystery I'll have to spend some time on google for.

Other than that, the X5 has continued to work great despite the idle dip and bad city MPG and my absurd fuel trims (oscillating between + and - 10% on both banks)

I also wonder if I have the remote recever for the auxiliary heating and if I do, I'll need to find or order a remote since using it manually with the key in the ignition is kind of pointless beyond checking it works.

Still some work to be done but I'm liking the driving comfort and space.
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  #19  
Old 11-28-2017, 06:55 PM
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Camshaft sensors have been changed, the ones on the engine were original (12/2001) manufacture date and were thinner than the new ones.

There was a coating of cooked oil on them and the plastic was like worn in places. The car feels stronger and more responsive even though the idle dip persists.

I'll be doing the crankshaft sensor in the coming days which might not be a bad idea if its 15 years old too.

I've also discovered through OBD auto doctor that my "evap system test" (OBDII $32 value) fails so I'll need to look into that.

I've also noted that now my fuel drinking in stationary/slow trafic is not going up to absurd numbers anymore. When I first got the car, it could go up to 35+l/100km now after 40 minutes of this after reset, it barely got to 22l/100km which is around spec according to old data sheets.

The fuel trims are still going up and down +/-10% around 0 which still baffles me.
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  #20  
Old 12-13-2017, 05:45 PM
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Haven't made any progress on the fuel trim issue, I'm looking for someone to smoke test the car but failing for now so I'm pondering DIY smoke testers.

I couldn't changed the crankshaft sensor since the one sent to me was for a 6 cylinder engine and didn't fit (and probably wouldn't have worked) so I'm still waiting for the replacement.

And for a little more joy, I did around 100 highway miles last friday under rain and snow and when I arrived, my tailgate switch was dead. It worked again a few hours later and when leaving 48 hours later but failed to work when I arrived after another 100 miles under the rain.
I opened the tailgate with the remote and looked up, both my license plate lights are rust colored so I'm guessing its now completely dead or will be soon enough so I'm going to have to order one.
As I can only get it primered, I'm going to try and swap my painted trim on the new part.

I've got a year to get it in shape for the arctic circle.
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