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Engine ground cable
Engine ground cable - Bimmerfest - BMW Forums "Engine ground cable (strap, right side low in engine compartment) I didn’t know we even had one of these – just never came across it (from under the car or on any diagrams) and because there’s a ground from the battery to the body – never thought about it. Well it is important!!! I was having some problems: starter was turning over slower than normal, although this was progressive over a few months and intermittent at times. Battery power was getting used up quickly as well, but with the short drives I do, I wasn’t that concerned. But with the cold weather, things became worse. So I started to check it out. The battery was in a weakened state by now (couldn't charge it up fully anymore) so replaced it but no real change, starter was still slow, checked the alternator and it showed a slightly low output to battery of 13.6 volts. Not believing I had multiple failures, I took it to the dealer. They informed me later that it was the engine ground cable #12-42-3-420-477, corroded and broken. So with a new cable - all is well – fast turnover and alt voltage up to 14.6 (no real load) I now see on other BMW models, on the forum, people discussing problems with the ground and replacing the cable – I just hadn’t noticed it on our X3 model – I now know - pleased as well – wasn’t sure if a new starter or alt was in my future --- hope this info might help others"
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E53 X5 3.0d SUV prod.date 11/2004 eng.variant M57N Europe Right hand drive N |
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All engines have a ground cable. In the old days the ground cable went from the battery to the block. Mega ground. Also either from the battery to the body or the block to the body.
Modern engines all have braided cables running from the block to the body. Normally located at the back of the engine on rear drive layout. Lack of a good block ground can cause all kinds of problems. With charging problems being the most noticeable normally. I found on most vehicles turning the wheel sharply while driving will spot block grounding problems. Sounds strange but the motor will ground through the motor mounts causing the voltage to change.
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Just BMW's - All cars and trucks was two pages long 1994 318is 1997 528i 2000 323i 2001 X5 3.0 auto 2005 X5 3.0 auto 2011 535xi auto 2013 X5 xdrive35 Turbo More are at my website Aftermarket E53 Radio Install |
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Appreciate reply, had some other related replies even that the battery cable running from rear to the front under the hood + in the firewall can be corroded and cause issues too....
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E53 X5 3.0d SUV prod.date 11/2004 eng.variant M57N Europe Right hand drive N |
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Wonder what alternative path the starter was taking when the primary path was missing. I can just imagine power going through a handful of 18ga wires that happened to be grounded. There would be a terrible voltage drop. Interesting idea of the engine mount test. You should be able to measure Ω from block to frame to detect a fault (or measure voltage from frame to engine block while starting). That second test will determine if there is a bad connection not just if no connection. A corroded connection will have a significant voltage drop with high current
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2011 E70 • N55 (me) 2012 E70 • N63 (wife) |
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Quote:
I did not have the voltage measured at the same time as you suggested but when measured whilst starting across the jump start points under the hood it went down to 9.6v. More I am reading more I am convinced I have a bad starter with bad bushes struggling to spin and or a bad ground.....and even battery getting weaker and weaker due to the repeated massive current draw on each startup coupled with the little driving i do just can't replenish the loss.. Gonna get to the bottom of this cos getting tad fed up of my lazy starter come summer or winter is the same groan anything between 4-10 times before she fires up....hopefully I can get to an auto electrician capable of diagnosing the issue as you describe and also re-con my starter to see
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E53 X5 3.0d SUV prod.date 11/2004 eng.variant M57N Europe Right hand drive N Last edited by omodos; 11-03-2017 at 05:03 PM. |
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Not sure what amp clamp test you mean an AC clamp ammeter to starter? 400a to a starter seems normal to me.
It does not take much corrosion at all to zap voltage. At 400A it would be 3 v loss (12v becomes 9) with a mere 7.5 m Ω. (0.0075 Ω)! A very good contact from a normal switch like a window switch will be between 5 and 10 mΩ. It does not take much to make a cable or connection worthless Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro
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2011 E70 • N55 (me) 2012 E70 • N63 (wife) |
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E53 X5 3.0d SUV prod.date 11/2004 eng.variant M57N Europe Right hand drive N |
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Well 2000 watt should be 166.667A at 12 volts.
But I have no idea what the watt rating of the starter actually is. But if it is 2000 watt max then it should be 166.667 amps.
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Just BMW's - All cars and trucks was two pages long 1994 318is 1997 528i 2000 323i 2001 X5 3.0 auto 2005 X5 3.0 auto 2011 535xi auto 2013 X5 xdrive35 Turbo More are at my website Aftermarket E53 Radio Install |
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Bluebee had this listed.
Quote:
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Just BMW's - All cars and trucks was two pages long 1994 318is 1997 528i 2000 323i 2001 X5 3.0 auto 2005 X5 3.0 auto 2011 535xi auto 2013 X5 xdrive35 Turbo More are at my website Aftermarket E53 Radio Install |
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Noticed you have a diesel and I also found where others were seeing 400 amp draws cranking the same diesel motor you have with the same battery run down problems trying to start them at times. No solutions posted though.
One thing that could account for the draw would be your glow plugs.
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Just BMW's - All cars and trucks was two pages long 1994 318is 1997 528i 2000 323i 2001 X5 3.0 auto 2005 X5 3.0 auto 2011 535xi auto 2013 X5 xdrive35 Turbo More are at my website Aftermarket E53 Radio Install |
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