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#21
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Oh Yea!
AceEngineer
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2008 X3 3.0si My DD 2005 X5 4.4i Better Half's DD |
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#22
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Great find, overall. But that last step you mention probably kills it for most people. I'll do almost anything to my cars, but considering the risk in that step (I'd not want to brick my car), and the effort vs. the cost of just buying from BMW (the cheap way, as I detailed earlier), I'd take that route. But great that you are able to do it yourself.
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2001 X5 3.0i, 203k miles, AT, owned since 2014 |
#23
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Quote:
https://youtu.be/AJ6enooPkYs
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Digital Competition Systems The older I get... The faster I was... No Fear |
#24
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Quote:
That's no way to handle the module board or clean off a coating! A screwdriver!!?? ! Holy cow... I wonder how many cars he's bricked...?
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Wayne 2005 BMW X5 3.0d (b 02/05) 2001 BMW F650GS Dakar (b 06/01) |
#25
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Quote:
Alternatively, i have an original key, and a chinese diamond as my spare on one key ring at home, and my main keys consist of the plastic key, with a chinese diamond which i cut the blade off of. The chinese diamonds can be programmed to open and close the car, while the plastic key lets me start the car. Same idea with the spare at home, the original key lets me start the car and the chinese copy allows me to open/close doors. Since the battery issue is strictly a lock/unlock issue, my workaround does the job fine, especially @ $5 per diamond on ebay... |
#26
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Question for the key guru...
- 2004 X3 2.5i with 85K miles with one main key fob and one plastic key. - Question re plastic key: what if I make another key for let's say $10-$20 or so (metal key cut by local locksmith WITHOUT chip) and carry the "dummy" metal key ALWAYS in the same key chain as the plastic key. Can I start the engine with the METAL key while the plastic key is dangling in the key chain? In other words, how close does the RFID chip have to be near the antenna ring?
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1998 E39 528i 5sp MT 2006 E53 X5 3.0 6sp MT |
#27
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This is not OEM and all you need is to get it programmed.
https://rover.ebay.com/rover/0/0/0?m...2F303071179084
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2005 Imola 4.8iS |
#28
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Quote:
Even if you purchased the AK90 and retrieved the ISN (individual serial number) that is already written to your DME & EWS control module...the key you linked to still has a problem. It is on the 433 MHz frequency which means that it is only designed to lock/unlock & arm/disarm (FZV/DWA) cars for the European and Asian markets. Trying to program the linked remote key to perform FZV & DWA operations on a BMW designed for the North American market is going to be a big fail. As mentioned many times before...the remote key does three things:
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Become a BMW CCA member! Click HERE to join and feel free to use my BMW CCA member #191509 as a referral.
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#29
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Quote:
BTW CN90, which type of key blade do you have (assuming this is for your X5)? Is it the type that has the cut inset into the blade (like the key on the LEFT in pic below )?
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Become a BMW CCA member! Click HERE to join and feel free to use my BMW CCA member #191509 as a referral.
Last edited by Qsilver7; 02-25-2019 at 08:37 PM. |
#30
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I'll add my two cents since (lol) i've been around the horn with the key situation recently.
I was reticent to scrape the contacts on the EWS at first too until I got it out and started trying to remove the coating. First off, the legs where that chip is soldered to the board are REMARKABLY robust both mechanically and chemically. you HAVE to use something mechanical to get that coating off and you can't be shy about it. Acetone did nothing. Mineral spirits did nothing. The metal legs are actually so thick, that a screwdriver is barely enough and it hardly made a 'dent'. you DO need to be careful around the PCB but I didn't find that to be super tedious. it was about like the guy in the video. The coating can always be reapplied (clear nail polish or something), but frankly, i've seen many electrical parts of lesser ilk in much harsher locations on a BMW. Once the EWS is out, programming it is pretty easy. The AK90 unit works fine and was easy to install on my Win 7 BMW laptop. In my case, keeping that plug in good contact with the freshly scraped board took some effort and getting the plug oriented correctly was a little confusing even with the 'dot' which is supposedly marked on the plug. and the software is not the greatest. you just have to follow one of the online videos precisely. overall difficulty was no more than a 4 on scale to 10 though. Getting the EWS out of the car is probably more of a PITA than all the rest of it. any time you are messing with BMW interior bits, there's the chance of breakage, misalignment, rattles etc upon reinstall. I also ordered the same key cutter as AceEngineer but unfortunately, I was never successful with it. Actually, I can cut a key consistently which will open the door, but will not turn the ignition. and I have no idea why. There's a skill factor involved and I probably need to just order a few more blanks. i've also heard that it helps to upgrade to titanium or tungsten carbide bits and that certain key blanks are a lot higher quality than others. I finally had my newly programmed key professionally cut and the ones I cut look exactly the same and measured identically with my micrometer. I honestly believe that my particular key has a couple of VERY subtle curves in the laser channel which I have to improve. I am comparing it to the keys for my kid's car, which I haven't tried to copy. So if you have need of more than one key, I'd suggest looking into this route if you enjoy this type of thing. In my case, I needed 4 keys....two for neighbors on the left and right of us, one for me and one for my kid. I found a guy in town who will laser cut keys (on a machine almost identical to mine) for $30 though so now, learning to cut my own is just lagniappe. He's the one who said just get the upgraded bits. I ordered them and will tackle this again when the weather improves. My favorite part though was getting the new FLIP key programmed. I love that thing. I can't get it to work with the windows and sunroof but damn if I don't love fiddling with it popping it open and closed, lol! Also interesting is that it is a few milliseconds slower to issue its commands than the stock key. There is a tiny delay from when you press the button to when the door unlocks. Seriously just a split second. But it's worked great for months now and the housing is crazy durable. Battery is replaceable as well.
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2005 X5 3.0i - 71k mi (9.2018) -> 81k (9.19) -> 100k 9.21 --------------------------------------------------------------------- SOLD : ( 2003 X5 3.0 - 177k mi (9.2018) -> 186k (9.19) -> 205k (9.21) SOLD : ( 1997 328is Coupe - Hellrot Red SOLD : ( 1988 528e w/ Bullseye s256 / MS2 Extra / GC Coilovers / Yukon Coils ~ 300+ HP |
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