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  #11  
Old 07-03-2018, 01:50 PM
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The other thing I would like to point out is that this forum ( and many others) didnt get started because people shied away from these vehicles. For whatever reason we bought, we were given or in my case are interested in and the bmw x5. That's not to say your advised is bad, heck I argue with myself all the time about which boondoggle I will settle on. 2 minutes online and everyone in the world will advise against ever owning a land rover even with a full warranty, yet I would consider it. some of these vehicels were sold for almost 100k 10-12 years ago and I can find them for $4000. That tells most smart people all they need to know. I am just not that smart.
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  #12  
Old 07-03-2018, 02:07 PM
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Originally Posted by Miyanc View Post
Andrewynn,
I am not sure which part your selling. N62 or m62, also you state you have 2 e53 3.0 and maybe looking for a V8 but offering knowledge on the day of the V8.

When and if I get a particular model, I will be looking for all those tips like Mickey's o ring. I bet there are many. I have an 89 mustang many years ago. Back then(maybe they still do) I bought many mustang mags and did 100 different things to it. Some big and many small. No forums like this then and I have done the forum thing on many of my other vehicles. Knowledge is King.
I've seen big problems with the valvtronic system on the N62, but if you get a plant without that issue i don't think i would shy away from it, but it's something to know about (there was a recall for intermediate levers; when it costs $750 for each of the two eccentric shafts, even DIY it can get very pricey very fast).

The M62 is a more DIY friendly power plant no doubt about it but the N62 is a very neat design that i wouldn't mind owning as long as the valvetronics is working properly. Ive set the timing about 6 times on the M62 and have dissected that motor down to the block a few times now, so it doesn't scare me at all to deal with a pretty low-level re-build. I would strive to avoid removing the heads and would love to find an M62 based X5 that JUST blew it's chain guides; it takes about $5k off the value which brings it down to 3-digit prices; about $1000 to $1200 and you can have an amazing truck if you can spend the 30 hours or so to rebuild the engine.


I will add that I chanced into the e53; i was looking for about 4 different vehicles when i picked up my E53 at auction with 128,000 miles. I think the auction price 3 years ago was about $5500 after about $800 boost from a bit of a bidding war. that's almost exactly 90% off the sticker price.

I've loved the X5 since inception just from the style and the classic design that is almost timeless. It was not on the short list because it's not on the 'top ten reliable' cars. I was thrilled to discover the car on the auction lot because it was exactly designed for me, it's the perfect car for me; drives like a sports car holds 1100# of tools which i keep in bins so i can empty in minutes to have a family car with little effort.

There are myriad small problems that keep creeping into the maintenance schedule but over 3 years we've averaged about $80/mo on the younger car and $40/month on the older (miles) car, which is amazing. That includes the front CV axles and lower arms on the younger car and all rotors on both cars.

re-building the rear brake lines meant about $70 in parts and tools, another $60 or so for the pressure bleeder which I already owned; a FAR CRY from the $1100- 1500 quote i've seen from dealers for the same job.

I rebuilt my alternator for $20 vs $300 part, most broken door handle carriers can be wired back together for free; the $130 door actuator can be re-built with $12 worth of motors (i will be doing that refurbish soon); if you start to dry-lubricate your window tracks you can avoid self-destructing the window regulators something that is very common on this car.

look for the recent thread somebody that JUST bought E53 and asked advice what to get out of the way re: preventive maintenance it will give you a good idea.

When i bought mine i put in mind a budget of $800 to $1000 to fix whatever the P.O. chose not to fix but rather trade in; the SES light was on; tuned out to be caused from a weak cam shaft position sensor. $90 part (OEM came with german instructions). bullet dodged. I also had a non-functioning AC; after vacuuming out and re-charging (or attempting), discovered the low pressure sensor was unplugged; car was nearly 100% after that fix.

I've been planning my next stepping stone since the week i bought mine; i should be good with X5 for a decade or two, no plan on using a different make or model car quite possibly for the duration (i'm over 50 now). I fully expect to get over 250,000 miles on my current X5, 200 to 225 on wife's, and i keep my eyes open for a good stepping stone off this car all the time; maybe a 2006 (still E53) with M62 and low miles or like mine used as a commuter car).

Maybe you can borrow one or do a 24 hour test drive; you may get just as hooked as myself. There is a reason they say "ultimate driving machine" it's not the ultimate cushion your butt while you drive in a cloud machine; if you like to have the sensation of driving, bmw rocks, always has always will.
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Last edited by andrewwynn; 07-03-2018 at 02:26 PM.
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  #13  
Old 07-03-2018, 04:15 PM
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I am 100% aware of more reliable and cheaper to fix vehicles. My question isn't about apples to apples vehicle comparison, except within the v8 x5. In other words. 4.4, 4.6 4.8. including n62/m62 and year. I understand this may be subjective from a forum/diy point of view. I am ultimately getting one of them (x5, lr rr, lr lr3 maybe a toureag). I am looking at these vehicles because of there stellar track record for longevity and thriftiness. I have considered the acura, volvo, infinity, porsche, even mazda suvs. I currently own a mercedes r350 2008. I was warned off it, for cost of ownership and its been great. I did the brakes and oil changes. many light bulbs and the only issue was the fan belt that blew up when a pully failed (100% my fault because I could hear it going and didnt replace fast enough). I tried to get a bmw x5 when we got the r350. Its my wifes car and she choose the r350.

Of course I would prefer to buy one for $3000 and have it last 2-3 years( better description then mileage because i wont put much on) without major issues. I am more realistic then that. At this point I am just looking to try and avoid as much as I can. I see one listed that says valve cover gasket replaced, window regular and ac blower. 4.4 2005 143k. when and if i drive it I want to have as much info as possible to ask and review.

So keep it coming. and thanks.
If you're dead set on a semi reliable cheap german SUV 3.0 X5. Yeah it's a 6 banger but a lot less headaches with those.

Really you'll have a two choice if you want an X with a V8.
-Buy one cheap that needs or will need work and either spend a lot of time in the garage or have deep pockets to pay someone else to do it.
-Buy one that is more that has a lot of the service done and hope it was done right, fix things as they come.

Between the 4.4,4.6.4.8 I'd vote 4.6 only because they are a M62 IMHO easier to deal with than a N62 and they are rare.

Things to check when looking. I highly suggest doing a PPI if you find one worth it.
-Any leaks. There's bound to be 1 or 10. A good flash light is a must.
-Make sure you can cold start it to listen for any rattles on start up.
-Then drive it to operating temperature and make sure it shift through the gears just fine and can downshift fine. A big problem on the ZF tranny is harsh downshifts.
-After you drive it, pop the hood and see if there is anything smoking or funky smells.
-Check all the basics, AC,heat, Windows, seat adjustments, steering adjustments.
-Dead pixels will probably be there but an easy fix
-Crawl under and check the Guibo for any cracks.
-Look at the brake lines to make sure they aren't rusted
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  #14  
Old 07-03-2018, 04:26 PM
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A/C evaporator leaks ( common in E53 and E46 BMWs). The whole interior dash and components must be removed to access. If you have a high mileage X5 and you do this repair you might as well change the blower motors in the casing also.
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  #15  
Old 07-03-2018, 10:28 PM
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Does the rarity of the 4.6 make parts harder to find or more expensive . At least more so then other BMW parts?

I also find it curious that so many, on a fan site, are pushing against something like this. It's either warented or bravoto.

If I am going to buy the v6, I might as well get a land Rover or a Volvo. The experience I would be looking for is the pedal power. I am sure BMW fans can hold to the 3.0 being a better vehicle and maybe it is, but not for what I am looking for.

I started this crazy search with an Audi Q7 or Porsche cayene at the top. Both are much harder to find and probably even more expensive to fix. They are all in the reliability toilet flush.
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  #16  
Old 07-03-2018, 10:51 PM
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Oh and my brother bought a 4 runner with low mileage a couple of years ago and has done nothing but dump money into it. He actually drove it without ac for a year.
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  #17  
Old 07-03-2018, 11:35 PM
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I’ve worked on about a dozen brands of cars since the age of 5 or 6. BMW is by far my favorite to work on. It's a big part of why I plan to only drive X5s forever.

They are an absolute joy to drive. I use winter tires year 'round and the cornering force for such a big car is ludicrous. I can literally corner better in the wet than my Camaro Z28. (I rarely use brakes for cornering).

My car just turned 17 and has about 2kg out of 2500kg total rust. Most of that being on the rear subframe. It's a marvel of engineering in so many ways it just amazes me. The reliability speaks for itself in how many of the complicated systems still function such as auto leveling headlights rain sending wipers, self leveling airbag suspension etc.

It has a few badly designed items like the self destruct mexhaism in the door handle carriers and the rear brake lines are apparently damaged by the factory as they are bent and the rust prevention coating is cracked. (not that they could have prevented that it takes 15+ years before they also self destruct)

I love your reasoning of why V8 vs the more reliable M54 motor and I would make the same call having the choice. I chanced into my 3.0i and it worked perfectly and was the perfect stepping stone into my next X5 which will be either a V8 or one of the crazy fast sixes that exist today
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  #18  
Old 07-04-2018, 01:32 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Miyanc View Post
Does the rarity of the 4.6 make parts harder to find or more expensive . At least more so then other BMW parts?

I also find it curious that so many, on a fan site, are pushing against something like this. It's either warented or bravoto.

If I am going to buy the v6, I might as well get a land Rover or a Volvo. The experience I would be looking for is the pedal power. I am sure BMW fans can hold to the 3.0 being a better vehicle and maybe it is, but not for what I am looking for.

I started this crazy search with an Audi Q7 or Porsche cayene at the top. Both are much harder to find and probably even more expensive to fix. They are all in the reliability toilet flush.
Not at all. I've never had an issue sourcing anything. For me rmeuropean is my best friend. Plus they are right down the street for me.

Well I think most will say to stay away because they seriously are either a labor or love or you pay to play. There's a fair handful that have discovered that the hard way.

Its an i6, v6s are an abomination.....jk. But seriously. So in hindsight I should have went with a 3.0 if I was looking for a secondary/family hauler/not having to work on it a lot type suv. But that 4.6 "pedal power" SOLD!

It is awesome being able to just punch it and it just MOVES especially being a big body vehicle.

4.6 or bust, still my vote.
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  #19  
Old 07-04-2018, 08:12 AM
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There is a 4.6 for sale now. I am going away next week and I am busy the week after. so much of this depends on whats available when I am ready. Thats not to say I am buying the first thing available. I am putting all this info in my hat.
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  #20  
Old 07-04-2018, 08:15 AM
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I know this questions spans 2 sections of the forum, but what about a 2007 or 2008? Again in terms of reliability and cost of repair? i normally would stay away from a first year model like 2007.
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