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  #11  
Old 07-27-2018, 03:34 AM
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I've seen the torque multiplier in the form of a tool to remove lug bolts it's brilliant and a perfect tool for this job.

Did you figure out a good way to hold the crank out just luck out that the torque was low enough that you didn't break the hold pin?


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  #12  
Old 07-27-2018, 03:39 AM
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Oh I forgot to mention: broke a 27mm socket and a 3/4 to 1/2 adapter and a 1/2" drive ratchet (when I thought I had loosened the bolt a bit) all before I replaced the broken 1/2" drive socket with a 3/4" drive. This was on an M62 motor with clearly a bigger bolt (I believe the bolt is 18mm with 27mm head).
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Old 07-27-2018, 03:59 AM
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It just dawned on me you should be able to bolt a block of metal to the balancer hub with 2-3 of the balancer bolts: then the timing pin will only see the torque you apply 1/3 of the full torque.

(Rounding for ease of math: input of 120 Nm gets you 400 out but: if rather than push against the floor and put all 400 clockwise onto the crank, the torque converter is pushing 280 CCW on the bar and 280 CW on the bolt adding onto the 120 you are turning CW. )

So you drop the torque on the timing pin 70%. If the pin took the abuse of removal it will have no problem at all with install.

Note also that this method drops the torque on the balancer bolts by roughly a third reducing any chance of damage to zip.
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Old 07-27-2018, 01:54 PM
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Bahahahaha! I just found some scrap metal at work EXACTLY like this and cut it down to a 6 ft piece.
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  #15  
Old 07-27-2018, 02:27 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by andrewwynn View Post
I've seen the torque multiplier in the form of a tool to remove lug bolts it's brilliant and a perfect tool for this job.

Did you figure out a good way to hold the crank out just luck out that the torque was low enough that you didn't break the hold pin?
It's just as simple as I showed in the pics. The locking pin at the rear of the engine block, into the flywheel, is the thing that holds the crank / pulley from turning.

Yes, agreed on the concern of course about the pin or hole being damaged. But I was encouraged enough to try based on that other guy's analysis (including the ~40 mm gap you mentioned) and experiments on his M54. Yes, analysis and experimental results, very nice and rare to find.

I'm actually glad I did this before reading your first response because it might have stopped me. Of course, it could have gone badly, so I do count myself a little lucky at least. But I think I'm past the bad part now, and reinstalling will be easy as well.

Given the choice between putting a huge cheater bar (e.g., my floor jack handle) straight onto the breaker bar, to the bolt, vs. using the torque multiplier, I think the main difference is the 1/2" breaker bar would be taking far more torque than it might be designed for. With the torque multiplier, the torque on that tool is cut by 3-4x. And since I had the tool, I decided to go and use it. In general, I think most tools are not designed to be used with cheater bars (yes, obvious) and when I do use cheater bars, I make sure I'm doing it to lessen my effort / improve my control, rather than to push the tool beyond its limits.

If I had a 3/4" or 1" breaker bar and a 3/4" or 1" drive 22mm socket, that would probably be equivalently good. Although in this case, that jack stand really made it nice and well supported so the socket was not torquing away from the bolt as often happens. Sometimes the torque multipler's main benefit vs. a mega cheater bar is that it lets you fit into a spot where a cheater bar would just not fit, but that was not a problem here.

BTW, I got that tool off eBay several years ago for less than the BMW crank-pulley holding tool would have cost.
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Old 07-28-2018, 09:47 AM
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If you are brave and the crank turns in a clockwise direction as you face it, you can put a six-point impact socket on the Jesus bolt and with a 1/2 or 3/4 breaker bar inside a steel pipe resting on the floor give the starter a bump. That should break the Jesus bolt so that you can spin it out of the crank.

Do this at your own risk. I am not responsible for any injury to you or damages to your BMW or tools if you use this method.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=kkeDnSeCEoE
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Last edited by upallnight; 07-28-2018 at 09:54 AM.
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  #17  
Old 07-28-2018, 10:04 AM
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Crank pulley / harmonic balancer / Jesus bolt removal

I had a far far FAR more difficult to remove bolt. I broke some very serious hardware in the two days it took to remove that bolt.

I still would not use a locking pin because there are better ways but I'm glad you got away with it

The torque multiplier is the most elegant method I've seen to remove the Jesus bolt.

I would combine with the block against the crank hub as mentioned above because it would greatly reduce the effort to hold the crank.

Even on M62 where it took 500+ ft·lb to remove, it took maybe 400 to break the locking pin. It would deal with 150 or so and very convenient.

With the radiator removed I'd simply use my big impact to remove the bolt. 5 sec of impact and wizzzz.

Considering the effort went from several hours spent spread over 2 days for the first one then 5 seconds for the second one. Pretty amazing.


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Last edited by andrewwynn; 07-28-2018 at 10:23 AM.
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  #18  
Old 07-28-2018, 10:09 AM
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Crank pulley / harmonic balancer / Jesus bolt removal

I've heard of using the starter method and I've considered the same. It is less crazy than it sounds. If something goes horrible the weak link will be the 1/2" nub on the breaker bar. Use a HF breaker bar.

I think I would use a 1/2" socket as a weak link I'd rather break the breaker bar than break a tooth off the flywheel

PS: for those wondering how I type the multiply dot ( · ). On a mac you type option -9. I made about 100 text replacements (shortcuts) on my iPhone to make up for programmer stupidity.

(Why can I hold "I" and get seven options for i but hold on 5 and not get the 3 alternate characters assigned to the 5 key!?)

So I made shortcuts for the shortcoming

Example:

1- = !
1– = ¡
1— = ⁄

5- = %
5– = ∞
5— = fi

Basically I've turned the three dash sizes into a postfix shift, option, and shift·option modifier key:

- shift
– option
— shift·option

Now I can access all the number key characters and on the correct key!

(Apple morongeneers decided it would make more sense to shift the shifted number keys out of order to put the rarely ever used braces {} where the frequently used # and $ are supposed to be for example. Now I can type # and $ by using the correct 3 and 4 keys.)

I also do a lot with electricity and need access to the Ω symbol which is option z on the Mac (Ω being the last letter of Greek so option last English letter) and other useful symbols like π and .

It was very frustrating for years first until jailbreaking was possible and I programmer pop out letters for all the special characters, but it took too long for jailbreak solutions so I invented the text substitutions workaround instead and have been using for years now.

The shortcuts now sync to your Mac from iPhone. If this sounds interesting to you send me PM I could send you a list of shortcuts you can instantly load on your Mac so it will sync to your phone.
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Last edited by andrewwynn; 07-28-2018 at 10:50 AM.
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