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  #21  
Old 08-09-2018, 01:33 PM
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PROBLEM SOLVED EASY FIX

Hey everyone,

Time to wrap up this thread for other people who find it. Problem is fixed.

SOLUTION (on my car anyway):

I disconnected and reconnected all the connectors on the panel just to make sure there wasn't a problem with connections to new heater control panel.

I noticed that small 3 wire connector where I tested the ground, when I pushed it in, the female ends, what goes on to the pins -pushed up.

I pushed them down so they were fully seated on the pins with a small screwdriver, and now AC and panel working perfectly, no more rear blower constantly on.

Things are working properly, all because of those these not being fully seated even though the connector was snapped in.

I know this is probably a once in a million solution but that's what fixed my car so wanted to update.

Thanks everyone for the help, Andrew you were very helpful bro appreciate it your a valuable member of this forum.

Erick

Last edited by Boston01X5; 08-09-2018 at 01:39 PM.
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  #22  
Old 08-10-2018, 12:10 AM
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That's shithot news! I love when it's just a loose wire good times !
You will find it's not very difficult to work on e53. It's my favorite car to work on though definitely can be challenging.

I'm having fits with mine there will be some posts coming regarding my problems soon


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  #23  
Old 08-10-2018, 06:30 AM
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Can't say thanks enough for your help Andrew and I will look for your posts I love the E53 compared to my ML320
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  #24  
Old 08-10-2018, 10:30 AM
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Your story is very similar to my first X5 repair.

When I bought it the AC wasn't working.

15 yr old car you assume low freon so I try to add but it's at the static pressure of the can so I figure it was worked on and never vacuumed out so I get the tools to vacuum and recharge including high/low gauges but it won't charge.

I can't get the compressor to activate to suck "freon" from the low side.

Guessing that the low side switch may be defective my plan was to hotwire the compressor to enable filling it.

I never figured out how to pull the connector off the compressor so I decided to measure the Ω on the low side switch.

When I went to pull the low side switch it came off with no effort!

I pushed it on and the compressor started immediately (car was running at the time). Topped off the R134a and got about 50F out the daah. I added a little more a week or so later and about 40 at the dash after.

Now I have the NT510 I can direct read the evaporator temp to help optimize charging vs needle thermometer in the dash.
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