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  #11  
Old 08-26-2018, 10:36 AM
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Andrew I am working on the car now and got an email about your reply first of all thanks so much.

This is what I have done so far today:

To make sure the motor was good I sent power directly to the motor and it worked - so the motor and regulator are good.

Next I was curious about the main switch so I took it apart and exactly like in the post you sent me - on both of the switches I have in that bottom right corner there is some corrosion.

I do not know much about electronics but he said he found a bad trace, I do not know what the means I am going to try to Google it now. Even though it's not fixed, I am happy I have kind of figured out a few things - with your input and help.

That bottom corner being corroded on both is a one in a million chance but that's what's going on, crazy. I am going to try to look into the electronic stuff and how to repair I don't mind buying some tools if needed I have a soldering gun and stuff but never fixed boards before. I have one switch I can sort of practice on lol.

I sprayed the board with electrical cleaner and used a toothbrush gently to get corrosion off but it did not help the problem, I hooked it back up and same thing all windows work mirrors work sounds like the drivers will try to go up but it's all the way up already. When I tested the motor the window actually went down for the first time in about a week.

I am heading outside to mess with it again and will take a picture of the corrosion.

Thanks very much Andrew if you can provide any help with how I find the bad trace that would be awesome.

Thanks again,

Erick
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  #12  
Old 08-26-2018, 10:53 AM
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I just reconnected the main switch because it was still out. I just did the auto down feature (which I didn't even know this car had lol) and all the windows went down and sunroof opened but the drivers window did not go down.

I wish I knew someone that lived anywhere near me with an E53, at this point I would drive an hour or two just so I could swap in a switch that I know is good and try it to rule it out.

Not sure what to do next, I need to put the door panel back on at some point today because I need to drive it during the week.

Let me know any thoughts, thanks!
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Last edited by Boston01X5; 08-26-2018 at 11:02 AM.
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  #13  
Old 08-26-2018, 11:00 AM
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Drivers window won't go down, replaced switch, no change

Send photos.

If you see corrosion inside then what most likely happened is one of the traces has dissolved. You will have to solder a jumper wire in place of the damaged trace unless it's just one spot you can solder a bump over the bad spot. I think the thread I linked had photos of the repair.

You confirmed that the relay is not getting power to the motor in the up direction. Listen for the click of the relay. If no click then the wire from the switch to the relay is bad if yes click then the wire from relay to motor is bad.

If no click then the physical switch you push on is defective.

It sounds like you have zeroed in pretty close to the problem
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Old 08-26-2018, 11:11 AM
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A bad trace means the "printed" copper wire broke. I thought he showed pics of the repair.

Send a photo of the board are cleaning and I can probably show you where to do what to repair it. It's always possible that whatever moisture caused the corrosion also killed the switch.

Try to get a measurement of voltage from the switch itself. There should be 3 or six wires. The "Center" connection should be hot or ground all the time and the "outside pins" should switch when you actuate the switch.

If you eg. get 12v on the "down" pin when you push the switch then the problem is at or past the relay.

If you get a click at the relay for down then the problem is almost certainly in the traces downstream of the relay


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  #15  
Old 08-26-2018, 11:29 AM
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I am trying to get you pictures I took some and it says I have to resize them need to put some things away outside then will resize and post ASAP.

I only hear the click when I hit up on the drivers side door switch, when I hit down, I hear nothing.
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Old 08-26-2018, 11:31 AM
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I use tapatalk for posting photos it resizes automatically on upload use the medium size


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  #17  
Old 08-26-2018, 11:41 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by andrewwynn View Post
I use tapatalk for posting photos it resizes automatically on upload use the medium size


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Just installed Tapatalk never used it before very cool app, here are the pictures.

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  #18  
Old 08-26-2018, 11:42 AM
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The close ups are of the bottom corner which had a decent amount of corrosion, I cleaned them up quite a bit I should have taken pictures before cleaning them.

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  #19  
Old 08-26-2018, 01:23 PM
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I bypassed the switch, and did some tests using the back of the connector that powers the panel.

Going to explain this best I can:

Disconnected the power connector from the panel. Looking at the part of the connector which slides on to panel, there was a red and purple striped wire which I found out was power after testing with key on. There is a brown wire, and that is the ground I figured out after testing. There are two others - one is for the up function and one is for the down function and go to the motor.

So on the back of the connector (where the holes are) this is what I did: Applied a jumper wire from the hole that provides power, and jumped it to the down function hole. Next I used another jumper wire and connected the hole that provides ground, and the hole that is for the up function.

Window went down no problem, and then I plugged the panel back in and tried up with the switch - and it worked perfectly. Then of course it won't go back down with switch if I bypass switch again it will go down.

So my problem is isolated to the down function on both of the switches I have, which seems crazy but anything is possible.

I would like to repair one of the two I have that would be cheapest, buying another used one seems like too much of a chance.

If anyone reads this and has a switch for an E53 that is 100% known to work I will buy it - pay for shipping and everything. I bought a used one and having same problem, new ones are expensive online and have to be sent from Europe from what I could find. I will call local BMW dealer tomorrow but don't want to even think about how much they are going to want for one lol.

That's what I figured out, hope you can understand what I'm trying to say.

Thanks a ton Andrew
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  #20  
Old 08-26-2018, 01:53 PM
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Drivers window won't go down, replaced switch, no change


This is the wiring diagram for the exact relay. It's slightly different than I had thought. It's actually two separate SPDT relays in the same container cleverly wired to ground out both output terminals when not in use.

Here is a marked up version of your photo:



There is a small chance I have the input polarity backwards but not likely.

The difficulty in your repair is that it looks like the damaged trace is on the top side of the board under the relay. You can find out where the trace goes and solder a wire from the important pin to where it goes.

If it's the ground wire broken a jumper from the negative DN terminal to the main ground less than an inch away will fix it. If it's the + on the DN input you'll have to figure out where that feed originates (from the up output of the actual switch) and wire a jumper.

It's still possible the problem is the switch have you determined that the output of the switch is going high on DN request? Find the output pin of the switch. If it doesn't match the + pin on the up contacts wire a jumper there. If it does match then the ground trace is shot and wire a jumper from the DN terminal to the main input.




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Last edited by andrewwynn; 08-26-2018 at 02:06 PM.
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