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  #21  
Old 08-26-2018, 02:13 PM
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I bumped the other thread maybe the guy took a photo.

The repair would be 2/10 difficulty for me. If you don't find another option you could send me one of your parts I can solder the repair and return.


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  #22  
Old 08-26-2018, 02:33 PM
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Hey Andrew,

Just saw your message I was trying to research a bit after reading the one before that where you marked up pictures and stuff, which was really cool thanks. I didn't understand some of the stuff that you mentioned I called my Dad and sent him the link etc he said it's above his head lols he was a mechanic for decades but has been retired a while.

I live in Mass and I think your in Wisconsin, I can look into shipping etc but that would be awesome if you could take a look and fix it I don't really know what you will charge but I'm sure it will be cheaper then a new one or running around trying to find another used one (had to drive three hours round trip for last one).

I am not sure if your able to like test a circuit board and figure things out like when I test electrical stuff but if that's possible then it sounds like you can figure out what's wrong. I learned alot about this stuff today which is pretty cool.

Let me know we can discuss the details in private message, but I think it's something wrong with the switch and it's above my pay grade.

My dad also laughed when you said it's only a 2/10 difficulty for you lol sounds like you know electronics very well.

Let's figure out the details I can ship it tomorrow

Thanks Andrew

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  #23  
Old 08-26-2018, 04:39 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by andrewwynn View Post
... Since BMW would never repair the inside of a module I suspect they simplified the diagram.

...
Boy, this thread went places overnight...!

Yes, BMW certainly simplify the block diagrams. When I said there was no relay, I meant an external socketed relay, as used in many other locations. User replaceable...

Sometimes the symbols on the block diagrams represent a relay and sometime they represent a solid-state switch. Interesting to know that in this case, it IS actually a relay. Interesting choice of design too, given the other highly integrated circuits on this board.

I think boards these get wet when you sit in the rain in the McD's drive-through and the water always sits in the same place, hence the similar failure mode on multiple units. Seems like an easy fix though, esp. since Boston01X5 has a spare unit he can send to you Andrew.

And yeah, de-soldering can be a pig - I have a vacuum de-solder too (Pace) ! Love it!!
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  #24  
Old 08-26-2018, 04:50 PM
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Once you have a true desolder tool there is no going back similar to high end solder station (metcal mx-500 with talon is mine).
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  #25  
Old 08-26-2018, 05:02 PM
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I have two E53 and I need to open up the door on wife's I'm not sure if the door card even needs to come off to swap a door switch but I should also be able to test on my bench. If you don't need a switch at all you could send both but I figured you'd want to be able to operate the other windows.

I've replaced individual components on macbook pro computer motherboards (bad capacitor) so large scale stuff like this is stupid simple for me. The typical chip I've designed with and soldered are called 0603 means 0.060 by 0.030 inch. (1/32 x 1/16"). We refer to them as "dirt" because if you ever drop one it instantly becomes "dirt" (a speck of dust basically)


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  #26  
Old 08-26-2018, 05:36 PM
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Hey Andrew,

Nope you don't have to yank the door panel to get the switch out if that's what you mean is really easy. I picked up a set of plastic set of trim pulling tools for $10 so I didn't use a screwdriver and damage anything. Takes about two minutes and you can look on YouTube also that's what I did.

I will keep one panel just so I can operate other windows, and send you the one that looked in better shape (the used one I bought). I am working tomorrow but will get in the mail to you after work.

Saw your PM going to reply now, can't say thanks enough

Agreed wpoll made a bit of progress I really appreciate your help as well I'm determined to learn about these beamers I owned Mercedes for years but these are much different. I am determined to figure out this car and fix it myself, with the help of the people here.

Thanks everyone

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Last edited by Boston01X5; 08-26-2018 at 05:42 PM.
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  #27  
Old 08-30-2018, 02:46 PM
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Tadaa fixed.

So due to corrosion ended up being closer to 7/10 difficulty but "nothing but a thing"

Corrosion weakened two of the pins on the relay and they didn't survive desoldering. Then the "up" trace also got damaged during the desoldering phase so I needed to add three jumpers.

I will make a new thread DIY repair. I needed to desolder to learn where the traces went but somebody copying me will only need to solder in the jumpers.

(Back to level 2/10 difficulty if you are skilled at soldering and maybe 5-7/10 if you only have done a few times. )

The difficulty is based on the tiny nature of the place you need to solder. I used 30ga wire and 24 wouldn't likely fit.


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  #28  
Old 05-11-2019, 02:10 AM
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Heh guys, I am having the same window issue at sporadic different times. It will not go down until I open the door. just a quick question. The board is located inside the master switch? I am going to pop out the switch from the door and disconnect it. But my question is: Does the switch come apart easily or do you have to break some plastic/metal rivets?

cheers
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  #29  
Old 05-11-2019, 02:15 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by talljames View Post
Heh guys, I am having the same window issue at sporadic different times. It will not go down until I open the door. just a quick question. The board is located inside the master switch? I am going to pop out the switch from the door and disconnect it. But my question is: Does the switch come apart easily or do you have to break some plastic/metal rivets?

cheers
It unclips with no drama but unless you are good with electronics, there's not much you can do in there - beyond confirming it's clean or corroded.

Most likely reason for your fault is a broken wire in the rubber boot in the door hinge area but it's still worth looking at the switch module - just in case - and it's easier to get at!!

Don't unplug the door loom in the hinge area without disconnecting the battery - otherwise you'll set an SRS (airbag) fault....
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  #30  
Old 05-11-2019, 02:25 AM
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I walked a guy through this fix who had no solder experience. It's not a difficult job and it's highly likely the switch board is at fault except with the mention of works with door open. That leads to likely in the door boot as mentioned.

You can usually verify if in the rubber boot by working the window with the door open and manipulation of the rubber boot. If you get the window to work/not work with that it's surely broken wire in the boot.

If the window will go up not down and sometimes will go down but reliably goes up regardless of door position more likely switch circuit board.
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