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#11
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#12
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uggh. I hate elect. gremlins
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#13
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Become a BMW CCA member! Click HERE to join and feel free to use my BMW CCA member #191509 as a referral.
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#14
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Think he said somewhere in another thread that it's an '04 4.4i
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Wayne 2005 BMW X5 3.0d (b 02/05) 2001 BMW F650GS Dakar (b 06/01) |
#15
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Details on how to actually test for a drain on circuits.
Not mine but this process has been posted multiple time over and over again, so here it is to save you from doing a search. I have also posted a way to do the test from the fuse box only. Gee simple! All you need is a good multi-meter. BMW Vehicle Parasitic Draw Testing When your car battery goes dead overnight, usually either the battery is at the end of its life span, or you left something on, such as a light. Occasionally something is drawing power that's not of your doing. This is a parasitic draw, and it can cause the same result as leaving the headlights on: a dead battery in the morning. 1. Remove the negative side battery cable from the negative battery terminal. 2. Connect the black wire to the com input on the multimeter and the red wire to the 10A or 20A input on the multimeter. The meter needs to be able to read at least a 2 or 3 amps for this test to work. Connecting the red wire to the mA input on the multimeter won't work and could damage the meter. 3. Attach a multimeter (set the dial on the multimeter to measure Amps as per multimeter’s instructions) between the negative cable and the negative battery post. Wait a few seconds to several minutes for the car to go into sleep mode - i.e. when you make the contact with the ammeter, the cars computer systems "wake up". After a bit of time they will go back to "sleep". 4. If the ammeter is reading over 25-50 milliamps, something is using too much battery power. 5. Go to the fuse panel(s) and remove fuses, one at a time. Pull the main fuses (higher amp ratings) last. Perform the same steps for relays found in the fuse panel. Sometimes relay contacts can fail to release causing a drain. Be sure to observe the ammeter after pulling each fuse or relay. 6. Watch for the ammeter to drop to acceptable drain. The fuse that reduces the drain is the draw. Consult the owners' manual or service manual to find what circuits are on that fuse. 7. Check each device (circuit) on that fuse. Stop each lamp, heater, etc. to find the drain. 8. Repeat steps 1 & 2 to test your repair. The ammeter will tell you the exact numbers. BMW Battery Draw Testing If your Shifter light is on, the car is definitely staying awake. Your Battery will go down within days. If the light is not on you can have a parasitic draw, while the car is in sleep mode. The only difference, is the second draw is from a module witch can’t wake the system (not mission critical), and it will take a lot longer to discharge the battery. Shifter light NOT on: (battery fully charged) Find the ground cable on the battery, but do not disconnect. (the cable end connected to the body not the battery, is easier to handle.) Connect the Positive lead from the “Fluke” to the body of the car (good ground) Connect the Negative lead to the (brown) ground cable (you can puncture it) Make sure it’s easy to disconnect the (brown) cable from the body, but don’t take it off yet. Open the glove box and remove and disable the switch so the light will not turn on, locate the fuse box. Start the car and run at idle, turn EVERYTHING on, and activate all the components (sunroof, windows, a/c, lights …..) run 5 min. turn the car off and remove the key. Open all doors and trunk, and with a screw driver, close the door locks so the system thinks all doors and the trunk is closed. Now lock the vehicle with the remote. The “Fluke” must be set up to “A” not “mA” otherwise you will blow the fuse in the meter. Remove the nut from the ground cable and remove the cable from the stud. You meter will indicate around (300mA). Let the car go to sleep. (16 min) minimum, if this is not happening start over. After the sleep mode is on the draw should not be more then 50mA, if it’s more go to the glove box and start puling fuses one by one and check the draw after each one, but do NOT re-install the fuse. Pull the fuse and leave it out. There are some fuses under the right cover in the trunk. If you pull a fuse and car wakes up start over (next time ignore this fuse). If you pull a fuse and the draw drops to around 50mA, read the label on the fuse, you will know which circuit is faulty.
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2005 X5 4.8IS The Blue ones are always FASTER.... Current Garage: 2005 X5 4.8is 2002 M5 TiSilver 2003 525iT 1998 528i Former Garage Stable Highlights 2004 325XiT Sport 1973 De Tomaso Pantera, L Model 1970 Dodge Challenger T/A 4 sp Alpine White 1970 Dodge Challenger T/A 4 sp GoManGo Green 1971 Dart Sport, “Dart Light” package 1969 Road Runner 383 1968 Ply Barracuda 340S FB Sea-foam Green Last edited by StephenVA; 10-02-2018 at 08:50 AM. |
#16
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Now for something completely different and easy to do ...
I found on my x5 that it has all kinds of optional circuits (rear seat heaters, etc.) that my car does not even have. But the wiring is there, and the fuses were there when I got the car. Early on during one of my troubleshooting sessions, I went through and pulled all the useless fuses. It was more than half that were removed. And everything that is actually in the car is 100% functional. But this way half of the live wires are no longer live. It sounds like you're onto the actual damage, but my suggestion here will certainly not hurt, and might help this problem or future ones. Good luck.
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2001 X5 3.0i, 203k miles, AT, owned since 2014 |
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