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  #1  
Old 11-25-2018, 09:17 PM
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No ignition position 1

Slowly getting through my to-do list of small fixes!

When turning my key in the ignition barrel, the first click does not engage the first ignition position, it goes straight to position 2. I have taken out the ignition switch and given it a rebuild but it is still displaying the same behaviour.

Is there anything else this could be, or is it just the case of a faulty switch?

Before I order a new switch, does anyone have a pinout for the it? I would like to test if I can activate position 1 by jumpering the correct wire, I need to retrain a remote key.
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Old 11-26-2018, 01:04 AM
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This diagram should help (although I'm guessing as to your exact model) - jumpering pins #6 and #2 on X33 should do it.

https://www.newtis.info/tisv2/a/en/e...0d-sav/oUgDQpc
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Old 11-26-2018, 01:35 AM
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Sorry I thought I had it in my signature, it is a 2003 3.0i.

Thank you for the diagram, I will give it a shot!
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Old 11-27-2018, 01:09 PM
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Have you found the problem?
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Old 11-27-2018, 11:27 PM
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Jumping those two pins still engaged position 2. I will have to dig a little deeper to see if the PO has done any weird things in regards to the ignition!

I did however get a spare key programmed following the the standard procedure but instead using position 2, however my original key will not start the car (I programmed an eBay key I had just to keep as a spare way to unlock the car). Time to order a new ignition switch?
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Old 11-28-2018, 09:47 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by nikinas View Post
Jumping those two pins still engaged position 2. I will have to dig a little deeper to see if the PO has done any weird things in regards to the ignition!

I did however get a spare key programmed following the the standard procedure but instead using position 2, however my original key will not start the car (I programmed an eBay key I had just to keep as a spare way to unlock the car). Time to order a new ignition switch?
Starting the vehicle with the key it came with has nothing to do with the FZV/DWA remote key initialization procedure.

Vehicle starting is the EWS (immobilizing system) portion of the key. Starting the car with the key doesn't require the battery inside the key nor the 315 MHz RF signal sent from the key to the car to lock/unlock (FZV) and arm/disarm (DWA) it.

EWS is 2-way communication between the EWS control module, the DME/ECU, and transponder inside your keys that is soldered to the IC board on your remote key. That transponder (inside the key) is encrypted with the same ISN (individual serial number) that the other EWS components of your car have (which was coded/programmed when the car came off the assembly line). If the transponder inside the key doesn't have the same matching ISN or if the key has lost sync with the other EWS components...the car will not start.

Also, EWS does not require the battery inside the key...it is self-powered through induction by way of the antenna ring around the ignition cylinder.

If all of this doesn't make sense...go back to the link in the post above to the online BMW TIS website. Click the HOME (link at the top left of the page)...then type in the last 7 digits of your VIN (or make the correct selections for your BMW)...then type EWS into the search box and look for links that explain EWS and how it works and the components connected to it etc.

Good luck.









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Last edited by Qsilver7; 11-28-2018 at 09:57 AM.
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Old 11-28-2018, 06:30 PM
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Not that I am confident the problem is the ignition switch but Lots of strange things can happen when the ignition switch is wearing out. Do you have any other symptoms?

FYI, I don't bother trying to repair an ignition switch since they wear out and one problem is just the beginning of the end.
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Old 11-28-2018, 07:26 PM
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Switch is definitely worn, jiggling it around a bit and reinserting the connecter got it started again. Replacement on the way!

Still not sure why I have no Position 1, I will dig deeper once the new switch gets here.
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Old 11-29-2018, 10:40 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by nikinas View Post

Still not sure why I have no Position 1, I will dig deeper once the new switch gets here.
Hmm...would that be an ignition switch (#2) issue or an ignition cylinder lock (#6) issue?

I guess when you replace the switch...it may reveal the reason if you suddenly gain KL R (iggy position 1). If you don't, then perhaps there's ignition cylinder wear?


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Old 12-13-2018, 08:39 PM
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New ignition switch finally arrived (Delayed deliveries to my area, probably due to Christmas orders), car starts again but I still have no position 1.

I think it is safe rule out the switch and ignition barrel, since directly jumpering the ignition switch harness with the switch disconnected (using the pins wpoll suggested) did not activate position one. What else can I look for? My only other electrical gremlin is that the steering wheel movement and memory buttons on the seat don't work, but I am sure a new seat module will fix that!
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