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  #21  
Old 12-06-2018, 10:41 PM
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Just a quick pic of the results on the Foxwell relating to the VTG code. Does this make any sense to anyone? TIA

Sorry about the sideways post... I'll fix that next time.
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  #22  
Old 12-07-2018, 12:02 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 80stech View Post
They are 2 seperate resets one is for the oil wear, the other is for the transfer case/clutch wear.
Really? Never knew that - must have a look for the second one. Where did you see it, 80stech?

Not that I would use it - I can only image it would be used when replacing internal parts in the transfer case (clutch packs etc.). In which case you might need to replace the classification resistor also, although goodness knows how you would ever be able to do that...

Again, from Autologic: -

"Manufacturing tolerances lead to varying curves of the multi-disc clutch. Because of this, the actual locking torque is measured on a test bench during manufacturing. Because of varying manufacturing tolerances in the transfer case when they are manufactured, a resistor equalling these locking torque characteristics is mounted to the transfer case. Every time the engine is started, the transfer case control unit measures the resistance and the correct program map is selected."

So it seems if you change anything internally, it really needs setting up from scratch again - not something an adaptation can adjust for...

I dunno...
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  #23  
Old 12-07-2018, 12:11 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Muleears View Post
Just a quick pic of the results on the Foxwell relating to the VTG code. Does this make any sense to anyone? TIA

Sorry about the sideways post... I'll fix that next time.
The 53FF code relates to power on the module (KL15 plausibility). Not currently present so maybe someone once unplugged the module while it was powered up?

The 55C4 is a faulty calibration. Again, not sure what would cause this - a bad servo gear perhaps, or the same "unplug" event?

I would clear both codes and see if they ever come back. It seems there may have been an issue once and someone may have dealt with it but not reset the codes.
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  #24  
Old 12-07-2018, 01:37 AM
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Quote:
Really? Never knew that - must have a look for the second one. Where did you see it, 80stech?
You are doing the second one (adaptation reset) when you hear all the noises coming from the transfer-case. This can be done at any time and doesn't reset the oil wear AFAIK
DIS will take you through the other reset (mileage based) when the oil wear code comes up.
It's been awhile though but that's how I remember it.
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  #25  
Old 12-07-2018, 04:58 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 80stech View Post
You are doing the second one (adaptation reset) when you hear all the noises coming from the transfer-case. This can be done at any time and doesn't reset the oil wear AFAIK
DIS will take you through the other reset (mileage based) when the oil wear code comes up.
It's been awhile though but that's how I remember it.
I didn't have a code, I changed my fluid preemptively. I recall the whole process being one series of steps. I guess I don't know DIS well enough (yet!) to know if you could jump into this "test schedule" part way through and just perform the oil wear reset. Or may that would be a different "test schedule" if a code was present.

Here's the video I followed - see from about 5'30".

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Ol4PofF-fZY
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  #26  
Old 12-07-2018, 07:06 AM
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Speaking of transfer case fluid, I see several different part numbers for the BMW stuff. I can get a couple different kinds from Amazon ($52-$60). The nearest dealer to me is about 40 miles. Which one and how much do I need? I see on the label it is Shell TF 0870, there are other products (made in Germany) that are TF 0870 also and much less expensive (like half). If they are the same, I'll go with the cheaper ($32). I would think 0870 is 0870 no matter who bottles it. Or is this a false economy? Saving $30 for 60K miles of use. What say you?
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Last edited by Muleears; 12-07-2018 at 07:35 AM. Reason: Add information
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  #27  
Old 12-07-2018, 01:04 PM
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Originally Posted by Overboost View Post
Left side rear. TCU (Telematics Control Unit) module with tag is the lower unit, antenna is the top unit. Last 5 of the VIN is incorrect. There will be a 4 digit Bluetooth passkey code.


Overboost: I got the phone paired and the phonebook downloaded. Even made my first call! The PIN was right where you said. I had to remove a few things to be able to see it, but I assumed the only 4 digit number on that tag was the pin code. Thanks, you have been a tremendous help. As have you all.
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  #28  
Old 12-07-2018, 01:19 PM
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Originally Posted by Muleears View Post
Overboost: I got the phone paired and the phonebook downloaded. Even made my first call! The PIN was right where you said. I had to remove a few things to be able to see it, but I assumed the only 4 digit number on that tag was the pin code. Thanks, you have been a tremendous help. As have you all.
Great! Thanks for the update. Have you checked to see if you have any VC (voice command) options?


If you do, you can save phone numbers (or names) then just press the "talk" button on the steering wheel and give some commands to have the system dial the number for you. You can save numbers (by name) of frequently called numbers which makes things easy and you can keep your eyes on the road (although there's still some loss of concentration just as if you were speaking to someone "real" inside the car).


Here's some of the VC commands...some like NOTEPAD may not work if you don't have that option:






{How to call a name or number using Voice Commands}





{How to STORE & DELETE a name or number}




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  #29  
Old 12-07-2018, 02:24 PM
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Quicksilver7, I didn't know voice command was an option in '05. I'll give that a try this afternoon. I didn't see anything about it in the manual, but I don't have the phone manual (other than a digital copy). The sequence for pairing didn't go exactly as the instructions said but i muddled my way through. Thanks again.
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  #30  
Old 12-07-2018, 02:34 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Muleears View Post
Speaking of transfer case fluid, I see several different part numbers for the BMW stuff. I can get a couple different kinds from Amazon ($52-$60). The nearest dealer to me is about 40 miles. Which one and how much do I need? I see on the label it is Shell TF 0870, there are other products (made in Germany) that are TF 0870 also and much less expensive (like half). If they are the same, I'll go with the cheaper ($32). I would think 0870 is 0870 no matter who bottles it. Or is this a false economy? Saving $30 for 60K miles of use. What say you?
I can't get any other options where I am so I used the updated OE BMW Power Divider Fluid from the dealer - DTF 1 part number 83222409710 - which supersedes the original TF 0870.
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