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#1
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N62 Broken Valve cover bolt in Rear
This is a quick note if anyone else runs into this. Remove plastic sub assembly that keeps cabin air filter slid up. I'd actually recommend this for anytime you service the valve covers, really opens space up, makes clearance on cam sensor much better. Harbor Freight has an excellent 3/8 drive air reversable 90d drill. It's just small enough to give you two fingers behind it and hit the stud at a straight. Get an auto punch tool to divet the center of the stud. Pack area with rags, leaving no gaps, cover cams / cam towers / valves and oil gullies Spray area with WD40 or equiv to catch shavings in oil while drilling / soak your bad stud. Drill using cobalt bits, work from smallest up. Drill slowly, in small bursts, try to keep bit centered, or work the hole towards the center. Don't touch the sides. Working slowly, pull the bit every drill, and use a magnet to clean up shavings. The bolt is steel and the heads aluminum so this works easy. Two directions here: A) Use a high quality reverse (left handed) drill bit on the above drill to spin it out. You have to be dead nuts centered with your above pilot hole, and high confidence in your angle of attack. B) (my choice) In the small hole you've made hammer in a Torx 15 socket into the hole until firm, use extensions and wratchet to get a very good angle and slowly apply pressure until it comes free. I prefer this, because the head is at an askew angle, the work space is tight, and the larger you make the hold, the higher your chances of hitting the cylinder head sleeve / threads, which is an 'engine out'. I know there is a 1000 write ups across the web for tackling sheered valve cover bolts, but I'd figure I'd make this note as it is X53/N62 specific process, and you are working with tight clearances and odd angles. |
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#2
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That drill did it. I got the Canadian Princess Auto version for $40 Can. I used a couple pieces of Gorilla tape and cut a small surgical hole where the broken bit was to keep any filings out of open head. Then I used a piece of tape folded on itself to secure a rare earth magnet below bolt, just a couple mm away (it got most filings). Used a spring loaded punch, and started with a cobalt drill. The screw moved while drilling and then i used the clean magnet like a screwdriver and it backed out. Didn't even have to use the extractor. I thought it would be a lot tighter. It was a brand new bolt that I overtightened.
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