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#1
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Valve covers leaking after replacing
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#2
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When I did the VC on my M54, I had the same problem. Turned out I had folded the gasket on the very back of the cover. Couldn't see it without pulling it back off. It's very hard to see and get to back there, at least on the M54.
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2003 3.0 5MT Topasblau Purchased in 2016 and surprisingly still running |
#3
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Yeah, most likely what Bdc pointed out. Use a mirror or endoscope camera to confirm the gasket is seated properly in the rear. Not much tightening torque is required. Here's instructions with torque values and where and how to apply sealant:
https://www.newtis.info/tisv2/a/en/e...th-lid/Di8VwSB
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'05 E53 X5 4.4i, '97 E39 528, '07 E92 335i, '16 F86 X6M. Last edited by X5only; 01-11-2019 at 05:40 PM. |
#4
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Thanks I’ll check it out tomorrow early and let you guys know what I find
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#5
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Good instructions in that link above. In case it's not clear there, you are supposed to only use a little of the Drei Bond 1209 at very specific points: the transition seams where the timing chain cover meets the head, and the sharp corners in the half moon things. The gasket should be able to handle everything else as long as the surfaces are clean, but I guess those areas, due to the sharpness of the surface changes need a little help from the Drei Bond.
(that's how my M54 was when I did this recently on it) And as I recall from the M54, torquing down those ~15 cylinder head cover screw/grommet things, do it gradually, in the specified sequence, the valve cover / head cover will flex (the one on my M54 is plastic) as the gasket compresses, through many turns of the screws. Then the screws will effectively bottom out and the torque value (a low 10 Nm for the M6 screws on my M54) will be reached. You will definitely feel when it bottoms out; if you don't, you may not have torqued far enough. It's similar to torquing on the oil filter housing cap on an M54 - for many turns you are just sliding the plastic parts past eachother, with an o-ring in the middle, then the plastic finally bottoms out and you torque to the 25 Nm. Before doing that myself, I had read of cases on the interwebs of problems, and found a few competing and completely contradictory best practices for doing this job, all of which seemed to make sense. After careful consideration I ignored all that and followed the book exactly, and have had no issues at all. I got the Drei Bond 1209 at RM European: https://www.rmeuropean.com/Products/...G976-V592.aspx
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2001 X5 3.0i, 203k miles, AT, owned since 2014 |
#6
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Determine exact spot of the leak. A couple places need some sealant. If leaking elsewhere then something in the way of a good seal
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2011 E70 • N55 (me) 2012 E70 • N63 (wife) |
#7
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Quote:
Good info!! I didn’t bottom them out. I was afraid of cracking the valve covers. On the n62 they are plastic as well. Since the bolts bottom out I guess it should be no problem.I’m going to order the Drei bond as well. |
#8
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Did you see where leak is coming from?
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#9
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I was not able to see it but I felt around the engine. It was moist towards the rear where the crescent shape is on both heads. The side was dry on one head and I couldn’t feel on the other side head it was too tight. I’ll know for sure tomorrow when I use my little mirror.
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#10
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As mentioned torque in sequence. Do in two stages, use a torque wrench not just tighten the bolts until they bottom out. Over torquing the bolts can also cause a leak.
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X5 4.6 2002 Black Sap, Black interior. 2013 X5M Melbourne Red, Bamboo interior Dallas |
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