|
Xoutpost server transfer and maintenance is occurring.... |
Xoutpost is currently undergoing a planned server migration.... stay tuned for new developments.... sincerely, the management |
|
LinkBack | Thread Tools | Display Modes |
#71
|
||||
|
||||
I have a broken DHC that wasn't cold related (just wore out; fatigue failure). I will remove the actuator when I fix that and do a test soon as tomorrow.
__________________
2011 E70 N55 (me) 2012 E70 N63 (wife) |
Sponsored Links | |
|
#72
|
||||
|
||||
Looks like BMW made a modification to reduce the freezing issue but apparently also not a cure as my driver door just froze on me. I put some Teflon on the bump they added and am freezing a drip of water in there right now.
__________________
2011 E70 N55 (me) 2012 E70 N63 (wife) |
#73
|
|||
|
|||
Frozen door latches
That pressed part is the revision BMW made?
__________________
2005 Imola 4.8iS |
#74
|
||||
|
||||
The bump on the stamped part. It lines up directly with the rivet that freezes up. I think it's meant to wipe the drip that forms but would only help if you happen to operate the latch while water is starting to form into a drip.
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro
__________________
2011 E70 N55 (me) 2012 E70 N63 (wife) |
#75
|
||||
|
||||
After and before fix. I deleted the self destruct tab completely. I will report back if that causes any problem (red) Blue shows the spot where the part broke off the frame.
__________________
2011 E70 N55 (me) 2012 E70 N63 (wife) |
#76
|
|||
|
|||
From what year are those from?
__________________
2005 Imola 4.8iS |
#77
|
||||
|
||||
My car is 01. Year of the bracket i couldn't find a date stamp but being from the Midwest it's not likely original.
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro
__________________
2011 E70 N55 (me) 2012 E70 N63 (wife) |
#78
|
||||
|
||||
My cable was destroyed from rust, I made a deal with a member here to get a couple broken DHC that I can use for spare parts but once I get them I'm planning to test my door with no outer sheath because I noticed how much force the outer sheath adds and I think that can be eliminated and remove one more freeze hazard (and the only one BMW officially admits to).
I was dumbfounded how much more effort it was to pull the latch release through the cable vs. directly. I'm hoping I can just remove the sheath and shorten the cable (by tying in a knot) I may have to add a small pulley so the angle at the bottom doesn't try to pull the ball off. I will definitely follow up on that.
__________________
2011 E70 N55 (me) 2012 E70 N63 (wife) |
#79
|
|||
|
|||
I am currently using the "thermos full of hot water" method on both front doors to un-thaw the latch mechanism. My problem is that if you can open the door then the latch gets stuck open and the door just bounces when you try to close it. I'm guessing the lubricant is gummy and something isn't sliding properly. The hot water poured around the door handle results in a delayed "click" and then you can open the door or it will close. Is this the spring shown in the photos sticking?
Were there more than one type of door latch? Mine is a 2000 build date and there are plastic covers on places that you can see in the photos in this thread. This is pretty annoying and I'm hoping for a solution. I took both sides apart when it was warm in the Fall and thought I would be OK this Winter but no. |
#80
|
||||
|
||||
It is not gummy grease its a design flaw with the actuator latch mechanism. See my thread on how to repair actuators. It also shows how to prevent the latch from freezing closed and open.
Dehumidifying is the solution. The tiniest bit of water makes the latch freeze both latched and then unlatched. You can blow hot air into the latch (end of door) to unfreeze temporarily and the door will latch so you can drive. Usually 30-50 minutes of driving will heat the latch inside enough to defrost and dehydrate so it will not re freeze. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro
__________________
2011 E70 N55 (me) 2012 E70 N63 (wife) |
Bookmarks |
Thread Tools | |
Display Modes | |
|
|
|