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#1
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Inner door liner (styrofoam?)
Thank you. Jay
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‘03 X5 3.0 ‘01 740iL ‘01 325Ci ‘00 750iL sold ‘95 740i sold ‘99 328i convert ‘95 325i convert ‘95 325iS |
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#2
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2011 E70 • N55 (me) 2012 E70 • N63 (wife) |
#3
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I got mine from the dealer. I assume you're talking about the vapor barrier that keeps water out if your interior. You will probably also need the adhesive, 3M Window Weld. Or Butyl tape.
Sent from my SM-N950U using Tapatalk
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Mike - Greater Seattle, WA, USA 2002 E53 X5 4.4i Sport Pkg Black (daily & tow vehicle) 2003 E53 X5 4.6is Estoril Blue (to replace 4.4i soon) 2002 E53 X5 4.4i Sport Pkg Silver [sold] 2001 E46 325Ci Hardtop 5MT Topaz Blue [sold] + Toyota track/autox/rally cars: MR2 (x2), Celica AllTrac Turbo (x3) |
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Thank you!
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‘03 X5 3.0 ‘01 740iL ‘01 325Ci ‘00 750iL sold ‘95 740i sold ‘99 328i convert ‘95 325i convert ‘95 325iS |
#5
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If the original adhesive stayed behind on the door you can heat with a heat gun and reactivate the original glue. I just fixed a couple door handles and went through that
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro
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2011 E70 • N55 (me) 2012 E70 • N63 (wife) |
#6
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Did BMW ever re-engineer the composition of this vapor barrier?
I just say as it might be a moot point to buy new ones at the cost. The E53's by far have the WORST vapor barrier in this generation. You can be as gentle as you want removing it.....it will still rip. I can man handle E39/E38 ones all day cold after 20 years now and they have still resist tearing. (Tissue vs duct tape if I must say).
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2004 BMW X5 4.8is [Black Sapphire] / [Black Nappa] [Nav] [DSP] [Style 87] 2003 BMW 540i [Sterling Gray / Gray] [Msport] [Mods from A-Z] [Two-tone Interior] |
#7
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Use an extendable break away razor blade and cut through the bead.
Next time I think I'll try to use heat Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro
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2011 E70 • N55 (me) 2012 E70 • N63 (wife) |
#8
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Quote:
Cold can slip a blade (Not fun, trust me ) A bit hard to physically cut too. Heating it is good, but then the vapor barrier weakens! It goes soft, you pull a bit or use a plastic tool to slice, dang thing still rips! Though I am venting a little
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2004 BMW X5 4.8is [Black Sapphire] / [Black Nappa] [Nav] [DSP] [Style 87] 2003 BMW 540i [Sterling Gray / Gray] [Msport] [Mods from A-Z] [Two-tone Interior] |
#9
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Inner door liner (styrofoam?)
I pushed it up at the seam instead of pulling to prevent it from ripping. The old butyl is hard and stiff so it won't stick back to well even with heat.
I use this tool: I tried some headlight butyl beads but it wasn't sticking to good so I bought this: XFasten Butyl Seal Tape 1/8-Inch... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B06WLQ3WLS...p_mob_ap_share Very sticky and looks exactly like the OEM butyl tape I tried to buy from the dealership. It worked even in freezing temps when I was fixing my DHC. One roll is enough for two full doors and then some.
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2005 Imola 4.8iS |
#10
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Too bad you're so far away. I just removed all the vapor barriers from the parts car with no ripping. I use heat and a regular razor blade. Takes a bit of patience but ~20 minutes per door is not that bad to save whatever money these things cost at the dealer/parts warehouses. I pulled these just in case I tear mine in the future when doing the rear regulators. I've done the front already.
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2005 X5 4.4i Build 04/05 Maintenance/Build Log Nav, Pano, Sport (Purchased 06/14 w/ 109,000 miles) (Sold 8/15 w/121,000 miles) 2006 X5 4.8is Build 11/05 Maintenance/Build Log Nav, DSP, Pano, Running Boards, OEM Tow Hitch, Cold Weather Pckg (Purchased 08/15 w/ 90,500 miles) 2010 X5 35d Build 02/10 Nav, HiFi, 6 DVD, Sports Pckg, Cold Weather Pckg, HUD, CAS, Running Boards, Leather Dash, PDC, Pano (Purchased 03/17 w/ 136,120 miles) |
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