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#1
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Exhaust manifold stud issue
I pinched one in a set of vice grips and used a bit of sandpaper to get a better grip but still wound up slightly galling the threads to get the nut loose. Need a good tip on getting a good grip on the stud o I can twist the nuts off without messing up the threads. Thanks. |
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#2
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Cordless drill. It will make nice clean bite marks that you can file off if needed. I would probably buy some appropriate threaded rod and make new studs
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2011 E70 • N55 (me) 2012 E70 • N63 (wife) |
#3
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I think you could buy the studs and nuts for it. When that happened to me I just put them back like they came out an all is well so far. That was about 2 years ago.
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5G Ford Ranger Lariat 2022 E36/7 Z3 97 1.9 New project E53 X5 4.6is 02 OFF to Bring a trailer soon Land Rover Disco 2 03 - sold Kawasaki Z900B 17- sold E53 X5 3.0 5M/T 01-sold-again E53 X5 4.4 05-the beast a 4.8tu swap. at 150k -SOLD E83 X3 3.0-the wife's - sold R56 Mini Cooper S 07-sold E36 M3 97 - sold E36 M3 98-sold E39 528i 00-sold E30 318i 91-sold E36 M3 95-sold https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCcI..._as=subscriber |
#4
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I had that issue on about half my exhaust manifold studs. I reused everything.
I used a M7-1.0 die to refresh all the exposed threads on the studs. I double nutted on the other end (opposite the stuck nut), then held the doubled nut while removing the stuck nut. Once I figured what was working, I optimized things to use my little impact drivers (10.2V and 12V) to speed things along. Red High Temp thread locker when reinstalling the studs. Cleaned up the nuts with a tap. Then when reinstalling things went on about 10x faster than it all came out. I used copper anti-seize when reinstalling. Exhaust manifold to cylinder head (M7) 15 Nm (11 ft-lb). 11mm hex head M7-1.0 nuts on studs, copper plated steel nuts.
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2001 X5 3.0i, 203k miles, AT, owned since 2014 Last edited by oldskewel; 02-23-2019 at 02:01 PM. |
#5
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What oldskewel said - or just buy new studs and nuts as they are not very expensive. Double-nutting the studs is the easiest way I found to drive them back in without damaging anything. Use two standard (non-locking) M7 nuts. Make sure there is nothing in the hole and don't crank them in too tight, or else you risk cracking the head. The nuts are 11 lb ft, but the studs should not be torqued, just screwed in snug.
I didn't use anti-seize because the nuts are copper and the studs are iron, but it can't hurt.
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2012 xDrive35d 2001 BMW X5 3.0i 5MT and two 1987 Corvettes - Callaway Twin Turbo and Guldstrand Grand Sport 80 Block Tester |
#6
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... and I also used the double-nutting to remove the ~8 studs that did not get pulled out when removing the nuts. Cleaned them up, etc. as with all the others.
For me, those nuts look like they're Copper, but were definitely Copper plated Steel (as proven when dropped in my magnetic tray). Pretty cool. But as I found, they still stuck on many of the studs. The main reason I used the anti-seize was that knowing how difficult it had been removing them, I wanted to do everything I possibly could to make reinstallation easy. Also, if you use threadlocker like I did when reinstalling the studs, make sure you clean all the PB Blaster you used off. Adhesives are only as good as the stuff they stick to.
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2001 X5 3.0i, 203k miles, AT, owned since 2014 |
#7
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I just got my headers on and ended up replacing nearly all the studs, and all of the nuts. The studs are 7mm x 39mm. Thread pitch is 7mm x 1.00, if you need to chase the head or run a die over your old studs.
I didn't use anything on the studs or nuts. Like E39 said, the nuts are oblong opening locking type. FCP has the best cost on studs, if you can wait.
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2001 E53 3.0 5pd |
#8
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Thanks. I see the studs on FCP Euro but no nuts (except in a kit of 24 studs and I only need 16. Guess I’ll have to call them Monday or buy a tap and die set.
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#9
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Don’t understand the double nutting? Meaning run the second nut snug to the first and use it to counter twist?
The one I as able to get off with channel locks was hard to get off all the way until the end. |
#10
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Yes, you put one non-lock nut on the stud far enough down to get another one on right behind it. Then you hold the outer nut with a wrench and back the one closer to the head back off. It won't because you are keeping the one on the end of the stud from moving. It tightens them together and you should then be able to use the one closer to to the head to back the entire thing out of the head. I got half of mine out that way, then put most of the new ones in that way. As was already stated, get some plain Jane regular 7mm nuts to do this with. It makes undoing them over and over much easier.
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2001 E53 3.0 5pd |
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