2005 E53 4.4i N62 Misfire Help!

[andrewwynn]

I noticed the lack of snap when I did a couple coil swaps recently, but I did notice that the coil floated up a bit before tightened down combined with that the cylinder misfire disappeared. I would probably put some deoxit on future swaps nothing beats the stuff to improve connections

[kamhoe]

Originally Posted by stiubhartach

While injectors can cause lean misfire, the ECM will usually adjust by advancing the timing to prevent detonation.

Your problems sound more likely to be ignition related than fuel.

Since you replaced the plugs and the coils, the most likely culprit is the unseating of the coils.

From the Bosch website. More at the link:

“With the newly-designed coil, the customary “snap” is no longer heard nor is it an indication that the coil has been properly installed. This new design does, however, provide better coil performance at the spark plug connection point, which was the area that concerned some technicians. In other words, the original design actually gripped the spark plug tip and felt more secure; whereas the new design uses a contact spring on the spark plug tip and this design may not feel like the connector is gripping the spark plug – but in reality it does the job just as well or better than the old design.”

https://www.boschautoparts.com/en/au...ignition-coils

Originally Posted by stiubhartach

I actually just did all eight of mine yesterday, and initially had misfires on 1,2, and 7. Had to reseat them.

Pull the coils on the affected cylinders, lubed the TOP rubber boot with light silicon spray (NOT the plug boot!). Reseat them, twisting and ensuring the top seal sets down fully against the head. Make sure they’re all the way seated before you plug-in the connector socket and flip down the hold down.

Clear the codes, then start the car. Check for cylinder misfire codes. Reseat any cylinders that are still misfiring. Repeat until it’s clean.

Note:
1. Don’t use dielectric grease. It causes the coils to lift.
2. Do use DeOxit on the connector contacts if you’re worried.
3. The plastic hold downs that bolt to the head don’t guarantee that the coil is seated.

Originally Posted by andrewwynn

I noticed the lack of snap when I did a couple coil swaps recently, but I did notice that the coil floated up a bit before tightened down combined with that the cylinder misfire disappeared. I would probably put some deoxit on future swaps nothing beats the stuff to improve connections

I went for ride for about 20-30 miles yesterday after adding the Lucas a day ago but it doesn't help much as the car still shaking like hell during stopping/idling.

I installed the newly-designed coils which is 0 221 504 464.

When you said adding silicon lube to the top rubber boot, are you referring to the Part D (attached pic)?

I've seen people adding something paste (can't remember what was that!) to the hole of Part A on YouTube. Does that help or necessary too?

I though about my BMW scanner 1.4 that I used years ago. Does the scanner able to tell if the problem related to ignition or fuel injector?

[stiubhartach]

Don’t drive the car while it’s misfiring. It can damage to the engine over time.

You can grease the inside of part D or Where E would start. Not the shaft. It’s a sealing surface to keep water out of the spark plug well. Do it lightly, just to get it to slide down.

Don’t grease part A. They were using boot grease or dielectric grease. It causes problems and isn’t necessary with the new technology. (It’s good for old school cap and rotor systems. )

You’ll know when it’s all the way down and facing the right direction.

[andrewwynn]

Are you getting any other codes? Or: have codes started to migrate to particular cylinder? If you get enough misfires on a cylinder the computer will shut off that cylinder and the car will have little power and shake like crazy.

Wife's car we as only tripping misfires a couple times a week and an hour or two of driving with the cleaner seems to have done the trick. Your symptoms are 3-4x as bad and you've driven not enough to even get the temp to equilibrium. That said, I also replaced the two coils from the cylinders that acted up the most. So keep reading codes and see if you can find a cylinder that misfires the most is likely a weak coil.

Also: take out the plugs and clean them if they are gummy.

[andrewwynn]

Have to drive to work the injector cleaner through but at constant higher speed where it won't miss.

[kamhoe]

Originally Posted by stiubhartach

Don’t drive the car while it’s misfiring. It can damage to the engine over time.

You can grease the inside of part D or Where E would start. Not the shaft. It’s a sealing surface to keep water out of the spark plug well. Do it lightly, just to get it to slide down.

Don’t grease part A. They were using boot grease or dielectric grease. It causes problems and isn’t necessary with the new technology. (It’s good for old school cap and rotor systems. )

You’ll know when it’s all the way down and facing the right direction.

Thanks! I will pull out those error code coils and try again after work.

[kamhoe]

Originally Posted by andrewwynn

Are you getting any other codes? Or: have codes started to migrate to particular cylinder? If you get enough misfires on a cylinder the computer will shut off that cylinder and the car will have little power and shake like crazy.

Wife's car we as only tripping misfires a couple times a week and an hour or two of driving with the cleaner seems to have done the trick. Your symptoms are 3-4x as bad and you've driven not enough to even get the temp to equilibrium. That said, I also replaced the two coils from the cylinders that acted up the most. So keep reading codes and see if you can find a cylinder that misfires the most is likely a weak coil.

Also: take out the plugs and clean them if they are gummy.

Originally Posted by andrewwynn

Have to drive to work the injector cleaner through but at constant higher speed where it won't miss.

I cleared the code before drove away and the same codes appear again.

P0300: Random/Multiple Cylinder Misfire Detected
P0301: Cylinder 1 Misfire Detected
P0304: Cylinder 4 Misfire Detected
P0305: Cylinder 5 Misfire Detected

All the spark plugs are new and replaced just about 2 weeks ago.

[andrewwynn]

Two weeks plenty of time to gum up plugs if the engine is not running properly. You need to check at least a couple of the cylinders with the misfires.


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[kamhoe]

Finally, I solved these 3 misfires that never go away after replacing new coils & spark plugs.

Over the weekend, I pulled out those misfire coils & spark plugs, applied some lube, re-seated them, cleared code & fire up the engine.

The misfire went down from 3 errors to 1 error (cylinder 1). Pulled out the coil 1 and re-seated it repeatedly but no luck. I went back to old coil but working.

I was about to get a replacement for coil 1 and an idea came into mind that I should give a final test by switching the coils between cylinder 1 & 2.

Surprisingly, the coil 1 is working in cylinder 2.

Thanks you all for giving me all the valuable advice & suggestions. If not, I would have ripped off by stealers for this simple solution.

[stiubhartach]

Thanks for the update. It helps the rest of the community to hear of successful fixes, so we know what works.

Good idea of swapping the coils between cylinders. That’s an excellent method of function verification.