Avin Avant 4 Installation Guide (Video Link)

[Overboost]

Originally Posted by Fifty150hs

If you use the heat gun solder connectors you won't need to learn a new skill. Unless using a heat gun is a new skill?

https://www.amazon.com/Haisstronica-...dDbGljaz10cnVl

Those solder sleeves are excellent for adding drains for my 0V lines with braided shields that need interference protection.

[X5only]

Got a tip from my son - Pin extractor tool.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...RL3WXESK&psc=1

[Fifty150hs]

Originally Posted by X5only

Got a tip from my son - Pin extractor tool.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...RL3WXESK&psc=1

You should be good to go with those.

[crystalworks]

Originally Posted by X5only

Got a tip from my son - Pin extractor tool.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...RL3WXESK&psc=1

Yet another set of tools added to Amazon wish list.

[X5only]

Got it done - easy peasy. I found the Lisle tool much easier to use - just insert, twist and pull off the wire. Within 10 minutes I was done removing all the wires from the connector. The tool is available at CARQUEST. Took lots of pics and created my own wiring diagram of the connector before removing the wires.

CAUTION - risk of shorting the wires, therefore connect the harness at the rear of the vehicle only AFTER inserting the wires back into their correct locations in the connector. It's advisable to disconnect the battery as a precaution.

[Overboost]

Originally Posted by X5only

Got it done - easy peasy. I found the Lisle tool much easier to use - just insert, twist and pull off the wire. Within 10 minutes I was done removing all the wires from the connector. The tool is available at CARQUEST. Took lots of pics and created my own wiring diagram of the connector before removing the wires.

Nicely done!

[Fifty150hs]

Originally Posted by X5only

Got it done - easy peasy. I found the Lisle tool much easier to use - just insert, twist and pull off the wire. Within 10 minutes I was done removing all the wires from the connector. The tool is available at CARQUEST. Took lots of pics and created my own wiring diagram of the connector before removing the wires.

Nice! Another tool to add to the box.

[X5only]

The cables are in. Opted to tackle the devil I know, so I routed the wires following factory path. Avant4 is amazing. Definitely much, much superior to Dynavin N6/N7 in terms of sound, features and looks.

[Fifty150hs]

Originally Posted by X5only

The cables are in. Opted to tackle the devil I know so I routed the wires following factory path. Avant4 is amazing. Definitely much, much superior to Dynavin N6/N7 in terms of sound, features and looks.

It definitely is far superior to stock. Are you installing a back up camera? If so, you'll probably need a filter or relay or you can get a poor picture or flashing lines across the screen. From the company I bought my camera from:

"The reason is: when the engine starts, the output voltage interference is large, the power supply to the reverse lights is not pure dc power supply, but superimposed a pulse signal on it, measured with an oscilloscope, the output is a signal similar to square wave.If the power supply line of the backup camera is directly on the reverse lights without filter, the backup camera will work abnormally due to the unstable working voltage, and the output video signal will also be abnormal. Therefore, the main engine will see a black and white picture with serious interference, jitter or no switching of the reversing picture.

Usually, there are two ways to solve this problem.

1. Add relay:

Generally, a relay is added to solve this problem. The relay is connected in series between the normal fire and the power of backup camera, and the power of reverse lights is used to control the relay switch.Since the relay is connected by many connections, if there is any interference problem such as dithering, please connect the relay by the following two points: first, the relay takes the battery directly under normal fire;Second, the ground wire of the power supply of the car camera and video ground wire directly ride the body iron, if there is a little water ripple, you can refer to the next method to add RC or LC filter circuit.We have also provided a reference for the connection method of relay.

2. Add filter:

Adding the filter is to add a first-level filter circuit on the power cord of the reverse lights, after filtering the pulse power supply, it forms a dc power supply, and then supplies power to the on-board camera.You can completely eliminate the horizontal stripes on the screen interference and shake.

The filter links for your reference as below:

1).https://www.amazon.com/AUTO-VOX-Inte...gateway&sr=8-4

2).https://www.amazon.com/Reverse-Parki...gateway&sr=8-3

3).https://www.amazon.com/Dasaita-Capac...gateway&sr=8-5

4).https://www.amazon.com/Capacitor-Fil...gateway&sr=8-6 "

Just received the filter I ordered yesterday. It will be going in in the next few days.

[Overboost]

Well, that's one way to do it but really harder than it needs to be. I wouldn't bother powering the camera from the reverse lights. I powered my rear camera from the CAM+ wire off the Avin harness and connected it to the red wire that is on the RCA jack cable running to the rear. Made that connection also at the rear camera power source in the rear and simply grounded the rear camera ground wire right at the rear fuse block mount.

My rear camera is powered whenever the Avin is powered up but mine needs to be that way so it records the rear along with the front as dash cam functionality. I really don't see a downside to having the camera ACC powered.

If you really only want the camera powered in reverse only, I would grab the 12V reverse signal from the LCM that goes to the autodim interior rear mirror. It is a solid 12V and not PWM power like the reverse lights.

One last note, there is no interference at all with my rear cam view.