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  #1  
Old 05-02-2019, 12:13 PM
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Plastic fix products

According to my 8er brothers who have faced the same plastic fix as me and our FTP screw tabs (worst structural design I've ever seen BMW make), these two products are apparently great at fixing a plethora of plastic breaks and or MAKING plastic parts for chunks of plastic missing from something.
Just figured I'd share these products here.

I have the Q-Bond at home and plan on fixing a totally separated plastic tab from my light bar (FTP) assembly. I can let you know about the results, but from what I've read and the videos I've seen of the Q-Bond in action, the chemical reaction is MUCH more likely to keep plastic parts together than simple Crazy/Gorilla Glues. as with everything, prep work is the basis for a great repair, so I'll sand and v-grove the edges then bond plastic parts together and build up levels.

https://www.polyvance.com/
has a lot of products for different types of plastics or materials. BUT here is the one I was referring to specifically.

https://www.polyvance.com/PlastiFix-Kits-1/
they have neat videos on their website on how to use it. seems simple and perhaps a better product than Q-Bond ,but Q-Bond was only $20 CAD for me and available easily, so I'll try that first.

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I swear, my cars are like a girlfriend.
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Sometimes she doesnt like how i treat her and sometimes i dont like how she behaves.
BUT at the end of the day, she loves it when I am inside her.

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Old 05-02-2019, 01:11 PM
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PC-11 is amazing but it's white so it has to be out of sight. I've been wanting to fix my cabin filter housing since I got the car and it should work great to replace broken off tabs. I just hope I have ONE left to see what it's supposed to look like.


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Old 05-03-2019, 10:46 AM
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Q-bond review: it's quite messy to work with (powder wise). I used a flexible mat under the part I was fixing, that way was able to pour any extra that was sprinkled on, back into the powder bottle

Connection of the plastic parts seems EXTREMELY solid. Which kinda worries me a bit too...

But the chemical reaction causing smoke/off gas did seem to show the plastic powder were making the strong bond to the BMW plastics.

I was able to grind and drill new hole too within seconds.

Let's see how well it holds up in use

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I swear, my cars are like a girlfriend.
Sometimes its a rough ride, sometimes its smooth motorin'.
Sometimes she doesnt like how i treat her and sometimes i dont like how she behaves.
BUT at the end of the day, she loves it when I am inside her.

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'05 X5 4.4i
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Old 05-03-2019, 01:22 PM
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Don't know much about chemistry, but I have binge watched the entire Breaking Bad series ... TWICE ... so ...

My understanding is that chemical reactions occur based on the elements / compounds / polymers involved.

Since the q-bond purports to work with any and all plastics (which spans a range having extremely different chemical properties [see Breaking Bad for proof]), that seems to mean there's not much of a reaction going on between the glue and the plastic. There can't be, because what would react on one type of plastic would have no reaction at all on a different type. I can believe there's a reaction between the glue and the powder, just like in a 2-part epoxy.

The q-bond looks to me like krazy glue (cyanoacrylate) with a powder to fill it out and provide some structural strength to the glue vs. just the adhesion strength that cyanoacrylate gives.

I'm always hoping to learn new stuff, so please let me know where the magic is.

My favorite bonding methods vary based on the application, but these are all good, and kind of in order of preference:
  1. JB Weld - my go-to for stuff that can take 24 hours to fully cure
  2. JB Kwik Weld - the 5-minute version when I'm less patient and don't need such strength
  3. Krazy glue - typically for tiny things with clean breaks, requiring little actual strength
  4. Plastic welding - when I know the epoxy will not bond strong enough and need to actually melt the plastic to itself.
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Old 05-03-2019, 10:41 PM
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The Q-bond sounds like the product I use and love called Rapid Fix but that I'm sure is cyanoacrylate plus powder the powder is very hard so the patch is very hard/brittle and I wouldn't use to try to patch plastic as super glue won't reliably bond to most plastics.

PC-11 two part epoxy bonds like crazy to plastic and is a much softer than rapid fix


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Old 05-04-2019, 12:54 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by andrewwynn View Post
...PC-11 two part epoxy bonds like crazy to plastic and is a much softer than rapid fix .
Any comparison between PC-11 and the JB Weld products? The JB ones are not specifically aimed at plastics, and since plastics are usually the toughest things to bond to, I'm always looking for something better.
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Old 05-05-2019, 01:00 AM
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In used JB Weld to try to reattach the plastic tabs before and it was useless. Lets see how this Q-Bond holds up
__________________
I swear, my cars are like a girlfriend.
Sometimes its a rough ride, sometimes its smooth motorin'.
Sometimes she doesnt like how i treat her and sometimes i dont like how she behaves.
BUT at the end of the day, she loves it when I am inside her.

_______________________
'91 850i
'05 X5 4.4i
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Old 05-05-2019, 01:14 AM
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JB makes a product I think "water weld" made for PVC. But I use PC11 for plastic it's usually stronger than the part.


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Old 05-05-2019, 01:14 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by andrewwynn View Post
JB makes a product I think "water weld" made for PVC. But I use PC11 for plastic it's usually stronger than the part.
I've actually got some of that stuff.

https://www.amazon.com/J-B-Weld-8277...dp/B000BRQ0TW/

It's a putty stick. I have not actually used it yet, since I (incorrectly?) assumed the JB Weld and JB Kwik would be better. I actually bought a few of those putty sticks and leave them in my cars with the standard emergency kit of duct tape, zip ties, multimeter, etc.

And BTW, I used to use a similar product back in the day for beach repairs of dinged windsurf boards or surf boards. There is an inner core of part #1, along the whole length of the stick. Then an outer cylinder of part #2. You just cut off the lenght you want and knead them together to start the reaction. Maintains a dry putty consistency the whole time. About 10-minute dry time for the board repair version.

I'll give the Waterweld a try next time and will report back.
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Old 05-05-2019, 07:48 PM
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Use nitrile gloves to mix. I'd probably use PC-11 vs water weld. It's been around since before I remember.


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