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  #21  
Old 06-25-2019, 06:26 PM
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Iím with bcredliner - 3mm is very small and I know from literally just doing mine that the gasket has considerably more room than that to compress.

My suggestion would be to avoid the recommended torque pattern for the VCG and once you get the new gasket on, start tightening the VC from the warped area out- if that make sense?


You will find that the gasket sits in a groove inside the VC and sticks out I bet 10mm from the VC, compressing as you torque it.
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  #22  
Old 06-25-2019, 06:44 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Purplefade View Post
Iím with bcredliner - 3mm is very small and I know from literally just doing mine that the gasket has considerably more room than that to compress.

My suggestion would be to avoid the recommended torque pattern for the VCG and once you get the new gasket on, start tightening the VC from the warped area out- if that make sense?


You will find that the gasket sits in a groove inside the VC and sticks out I bet 10mm from the VC, compressing as you torque it.
I agree, need to get the warped side tight first. I would use the torque sequence to torque to very near spec and then torque the warped side to just over spec and then come back to good side and torque to spec.
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  #23  
Old 06-27-2019, 10:30 AM
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This is sounding good! How long have you guys that have had a gasket leak wait until you did the job? I was told that once I undid the cover that it would spring up and I would’t be able even to get the bolts back in. So, I was under the impression that I would have to get a new VC ($!). The manager at one workshop said one of his junior workers found it too awkward to get the sealant in and that the seal is like a sideways S shape that you can’t get past. Surely, some gasket sealant could run along the outside gap as a temp. I could even try that. I was wondering if 3mm was a lot and what sort of pressure is in there.

cheers guys
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  #24  
Old 06-28-2019, 03:59 AM
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I was thinking of Permatex Ultra Grey Rigid High-Torque RTV Silicone Gasket Maker for the gap. I dont want something that will prevent getting the cover off later.
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  #25  
Old 06-28-2019, 09:45 AM
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Heh guys, just have a dumb question. How does the VC warp up 3mm anyway? Surely the original torque would have that much pressure that any shrinkage in gasket due to hardning up etc. would be overcome by the vertical pressure due to the bolts? and I can’t see how the bolts could be pulled up. Is it the case that the two either side bolts are flush with no gap and this warp is in between the bolts. If that is the case then if bmw had more bolts around the VC we may get more kms before needing a gasket change.
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  #26  
Old 06-28-2019, 10:44 AM
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3mm is not a big amount. Heat cycles will cause them to warp over time on anything with plastic valve covers. Very common with BMW valve covers. I've seen it on other brands as well though.
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  #27  
Old 06-29-2019, 07:29 AM
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https://www.ferrarichat.com/forum/th...repair.329962/
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  #28  
Old 06-29-2019, 10:31 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by talljames View Post
Heh guys, just have a dumb question. How does the VC warp up 3mm anyway? Surely the original torque would have that much pressure that any shrinkage in gasket due to hardning up etc. would be overcome by the vertical pressure due to the bolts? and I canít see how the bolts could be pulled up. Is it the case that the two either side bolts are flush with no gap and this warp is in between the bolts. If that is the case then if bmw had more bolts around the VC we may get more kms before needing a gasket change.

I don't actually think its a function of the number of bolts or torque, I think what happens is that rubber bushings on the cap nut shrink and start to get more brittle which lets the torsion of the valve cover gasket exploit that little bit of "slack" and warp... I'm sure it happens on the VC bolts also, they have a large rubber gasket\grommet around them that gets brittle as it gets older also.



Your pics actually don't look that bad, not seeing it in person I guess I'm not able to gauge the actual torsion the valve cover may be under. Do you think it will twist more as you start to remove it?


Crazy question - may has been asked, but anyway, have you checked those bolts to see if maybe they're loose? I'm curious if there's any room to tighten those specif nuts\bolts at the warped area and see what happens?


As an extreme... and I'll really try anything once, I might even consider ordering my gasket set, pulling that valve cover gasket and taking some measurements to make a "jig". - I'm sure the forum will guide me here of I'm completely crazy, but I might even consider finding a way that I could apply enough pressure to the VC without cracking it, but trying to get if flat and then baking it at 350 degrees for half an hour or so.. If you've got that sucker clamped flat and you can get any of the warp out of it, you might get it to work.



If it's already screwed what's the worst that could happen, you'll have to buy a VC.


I don't have any specific pic to steer you to (maybe REALOem) but I can tell you that the VC has a channel that runs all the way around it that the base of the VC gaskets fits in to. That channel is not static fit, I added a few strategic dots of RTV Red to the edges, corners, etc and placed my gasket in the groove and then let the RTV cure for about 30 minutes. That gasket is top to bottom about 10mm thick, 3mm of deflection in the VC itself could be easily overcome (I would think) IF you can get the bolts to grab. You could then add any additional RTV that you wanted to, and I wouldn't add a bunch, to the warped area to help ensure that seals.


The idea of external RTV does work, I've been stuck in stuff that I didn't want to be stuck in and got some pretty crazy stuff to run for quiet a long time If you can get the area REALLY clean, you might get it to work.
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  #29  
Old 06-30-2019, 01:31 AM
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Thanks Purple, food for thought..)
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  #30  
Old 06-30-2019, 01:44 AM
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I feel you are overthinking it. Give it a try. Super shit load of good ideas here.
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