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  #11  
Old 06-03-2019, 01:26 PM
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Originally Posted by Bmwtvboy View Post
When attaching a 12Volt line to the motor plug does it matter which prong I attach it to? I am not very informed on this electrical stuff. What do I attach the ground line to? I have to use the 12volt power from the jump point under the hood, it's all I have. Is that OK? I can see two wires going to the motor from below the switch box in the door handle. Ready to give this a try and diagnose properly. Thanks so much.


If you are attaching it DIRECTLY to the motor plug, just the two wires comings directly from the window motor - than no, it doesn’t matter which wire is which, one way will roll the window up and the other way will roll the window down.

That said - do not apply outside power to the window motor with it still connected to the door switch, make sure everything is unplugged and work directly with the window motor leads themselves, just the two of them.

Rather than pull 12v from under hood, I might use a “drill” battery, or other type tool battery (under 18v) to apply power, take ground to one motor wire and power to the other, if it try’s to go up, just revert them.

Worst case... and I really don’t like this option, you can pull 12v from the car itself - take one long wire from your 12v power source and apply it to one wire of the window motor and then a shorter wire and just ground it inside the door. Same as above, if it try’s to go up, simply switch your wires.

Let me know if that made sense?

NOTE - my first choice is an outside the car, isolated power source, it’s just “easier”..
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  #12  
Old 06-03-2019, 01:30 PM
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Yes, this makes sense now. I may have a 12volt battery supply from impact wrench. I understand everything is unplugged and I am only to test the motor. Grounding makes sense too. Thanks. I'll keep you posted.
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  #13  
Old 06-11-2019, 05:59 PM
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Becoming a PIA. Was able to remove the switch and take apart. It looked perfect. I cleaned contact points on board and silicone pad with alcohol, put back together and now the rear passenger window won't respond. The passenger front window responded sporadically. Can't get contacts on the driver window motor to test it unplugged/to deep in the plastic shield. The two wires, green/black n grey/black in the main power switch can't identify which is which to power up through the plug when disconnected from the main switch. My 12 volt may not be applicable because it has four prongs and can't figure out which is power, and I don't want to use the car battery supply. So, what else can I try. I also have to figure out how to get the regulator out if I can't get the window down and the motor/pulley is jammed in the closed position. I do get a clicking noise when power through the switch is applied to the front window motor, but only in the up position, not the down/no sound. Ideas?
Thanks in advance.
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  #14  
Old 06-11-2019, 06:15 PM
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Originally Posted by Bmwtvboy View Post
Becoming a PIA. Was able to remove the switch and take apart. It looked perfect. I cleaned contact points on board and silicone pad with alcohol, put back together and now the rear passenger window won't respond. The passenger front window responded sporadically. Can't get contacts on the driver window motor to test it unplugged/to deep in the plastic shield. The two wires, green/black n grey/black in the main power switch can't identify which is which to power up through the plug when disconnected from the main switch. My 12 volt may not be applicable because it has four prongs and can't figure out which is power, and I don't want to use the car battery supply. So, what else can I try. I also have to figure out how to get the regulator out if I can't get the window down and the motor/pulley is jammed in the closed position. I do get a clicking noise when power through the switch is applied to the front window motor, but only in the up position, not the down/no sound. Ideas?
Thanks in advance.



Take 2 pieces of wire about 6 inches long and make yourself "extensions" to push into the window motor plug, just strip both ends - one end about half an inch and the other end about an inch. Take the end that you striped an inch and fold it in half so that you have a half inch striped wire that is doubled up. Take that end and insert it into the window motor plug and use those extensions to apply your 12v to.


As a suggestion, if you have a 9v battery you should be able to use it as a quick test of your window motor, will move slow, but if its working, it will move.


With regard to the actual switch.. I'll leave that one for andrerwwynn since he's the man when it comes to sorting those out


Note - the fact that it clicks in the up position but does nothing in the down position, doesn't necessarily make it the motor or the switch, until you actually directly test the motor you won't really know for sure. A bad contact in the switch can cause the window to roll up but not down and vice versa, a bad window motor may roll down but not up... I don't know of a procedure to test the switch, so you really need to test that window motor to pin things down.
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  #15  
Old 06-11-2019, 06:21 PM
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Side note, vs trying to get the window and regulator out as a unit, I believe you can just cut the window lift cable and the window will become moveable, since you would be replacing the regulator assembly anyway.
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  #16  
Old 06-11-2019, 07:33 PM
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Ok, that sounds approachable for testing the motor. I'll give it try. I checked my 12 volt battery from my impact wrench and it needed a charge. I then checked the terminals marked and it seems they have to be pressed in for current. So that should help keep things connected. Thanks. Cut the cable? Bolt cutters? Looks pretty thick in the plastic.
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  #17  
Old 06-11-2019, 07:43 PM
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Originally Posted by Bmwtvboy View Post
Cut the cable? Bolt cutters? Looks pretty thick in the plastic.



If you pull back the vapor barrier on the door to expose the front or rear of the window track you will see just the naked cable, its like a bicycle brake cable ish, a good pair of side cuts or tin snips should take care of it.
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  #18  
Old 06-11-2019, 08:03 PM
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hooray..yippie..YOU GUYS ROCK. I was able to connect to the 12 volt battery using the wires in the black power plug at the switch. I first tested the line to the motor unplugged. Got a current. It was easier to secure the power to the holes in the plug and switch them to get the motor working. IT WORKED> I don't need a motor and everything went up n down easily. NOW the bigger problem. What do I do with the switch box? I don't see any corrosion. I cleaned the board contacts. So , what's my options? Can I install a different switch between the power to the motor? Some kind of a three way inline thing? Thanks again. This is awesome.
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  #19  
Old 06-11-2019, 08:07 PM
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Originally Posted by Bmwtvboy View Post
hooray..yippie..YOU GUYS ROCK. I was able to connect to the 12 volt battery using the wires in the black power plug at the switch. I first tested the line to the motor unplugged. Got a current. It was easier to secure the power to the holes in the plug and switch them to get the motor working. IT WORKED> I don't need a motor and everything went up n down easily. NOW the bigger problem. What do I do with the switch box? I don't see any corrosion. I cleaned the board contacts. So , what's my options? Can I install a different switch between the power to the motor? Some kind of a three way inline thing? Thanks again. This is awesome.



That is awesome! Ok, so we know the window motor is good, and you have gone through Andrews window switch repair thoroughly?


I hate to see anyone get anything they may not need, but worst case:


$40 - Ebay - https://www.ebay.com/itm/BMW-X5-E53-...ss!43230!US!-1
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  #20  
Old 06-11-2019, 08:09 PM
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Sorry, what's Andrew's switch repair? And how do I know that switch from Ebay will work? I have had some bad experiences with Ebay.
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