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  #1  
Old 06-30-2019, 09:01 PM
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Rear upper balljoint loose. What else to replace?

So yea. My rear upper ball joint is loose. I’m trying to decide who to go with, and figured I ask. Should I refresh the entire rear? I looked at that lower ball joint. That looks like I need some special tool.

Anyway, what kit do you guys recommend, and do you think i should just renew the entire rear?
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  #2  
Old 07-01-2019, 12:59 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SlickGT1 View Post
do you think i should just renew the entire rear?
That's usually my approach. Not the most economical way to go about things... but usually the most reliable. Usually.
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Old 07-01-2019, 01:24 AM
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I had the embarrassing squeak in the rear end so had to do the ball joints. Took the opportunity to do the upper control arms at the same time.

I used FEBI and Lemforder



It made a big difference to the camber settings in the rear but as I didn't also do the bushes one side couldn't get back to where I wanted it so both have been set to the same (lesser) setting.

It's prevented me from putting new wheels on as I don't want to chew out a set of tyres before sorting it.

Re the ball joint tool.... with the tool each bush is a 10 min job to get them actually out... without the tool it's next to impossible as there is a rib on one side fouling anything sitting square to pull it out...
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Last edited by LVR; 07-01-2019 at 01:41 AM.
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Old 07-01-2019, 02:49 PM
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Shit, i was worried about this. I saw a vid where some dude straight up wailed on it with a sledge. Doesn't seem too smart to me.



Where does one get the tool?



Also, I think I should replace my shocks. Any advise on what to go with. I have 2 axle air, and whatever shocks came with the rebuilt arnotts, are staying in the front. lol.
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Old 07-01-2019, 04:21 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SlickGT1 View Post
… Where does one get the tool? …
Lots of places sell them - here's an example...

https://www.amazon.com/Supercrazy-Jo.../dp/B00V0R7NTI
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Old 07-01-2019, 05:22 PM
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Originally Posted by wpoll View Post
Lots of places sell them - here's an example...

https://www.amazon.com/Supercrazy-Jo.../dp/B00V0R7NTI



Lol, same one I found.



I'm thinking of this kit for the rear.

https://www.fcpeuro.com/products/bmw...e53cakitrearmy


And some new bilsteins

https://www.fcpeuro.com/products/bmw...r-x5-24-026529


What do you guys think? All in about $600 for parts and tool.



Should take 15 years off that tight ass I think.
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Old 07-01-2019, 07:09 PM
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I did the front and rear susp overhaul in my 1998 528i and posted the DIYs in bimmerfest E39 forum.
All the tools were listed in the DIYs.

You can always search for it in bimmerfest if you need the info.
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Old 07-01-2019, 07:24 PM
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That $50 Amazon tool is a game changer. I stubbornly struggled and eventually succeeded with the standard C-clamp style bearing press tools and some inventiveness, on my 2001 3.0i with springs, soon after first getting the car a few years ago. Never again, BTW.

I was pretty cautious about replacing parts that did not need it. When I did replace, it was with Lemfoerder. Some of my parts - e.g., guide links (rear axle front upper control arms), sway bar links, rear shocks - are so easy to replace if and when they ever fail (not yet, at 190k miles) that I did not see a reason to do those ones "while I was in there."

But others - e.g., integral links, opposite side control arm when one was too loose - did make sense to do. So that's what I did. In my case, the ball joints were the real problem. Replacing those alone would probably have been sufficient at about 170k miles. Integral links were out, buried deep, cheap, so those got replaced. One of my rear upper control arms was loose, so I replaced those on both sides.

Although the rear shocks will come off and it's of course easy to put new ones on at that point, replacing those at a later time just requires jacking up the car, taking off the wheel, and two bolts.

In my case, I found the intermittent squeaking I had been hearing was due to the rubber seat things at the top and bottom of the springs. I just removed and cleaned those carefully, re-greased, and they have been silent ever since.

Depending on your mileage and condition, I would be concerned that you might actually be taking a step back by replacing a well-functioning original part with a Meyle.
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Old 07-01-2019, 10:41 PM
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Oh. Lemfoerder is literally $18 more.

https://www.fcpeuro.com/products/bmw...5-e53rearkit-l

And I’m at 100k miles. I don’t think those original parts are up to snuff at this point. NYC roads are supper harsh, and so are the maneuvers required. A more complete refresh will give me a bigger boner. I will do subframe bushings at a later day. That job is separate.

But since I plan to let out the air, by remove trunk compartment, undo the shock anyway on the bottom, 100k mile shocks can also be tossed.
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Last edited by SlickGT1; 07-01-2019 at 10:49 PM.
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  #10  
Old 07-02-2019, 01:16 PM
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FRONT AND REAR SUSPENSION ARMS
Replace them all. These SAV beast chew through them pretty fast. Fronts approx 50K, rear 60-80K. You will notice the difference in the first 100 yards after repairs.
CN90 is correct in saying with the right tools the process is simple and pain free. Use WD-40 long before you start the process. Replacing the rear ball joints as mentioned is easy with the right tools.
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Last edited by StephenVA; 07-02-2019 at 01:24 PM.
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