Bushings in a can - DIY Rear Sub Frame bushings repair

[kablammo]

If your e53 is in need of sub frame bushings and you need a quick repair that works in a pinch this is a decent option.

https://www.amazon.com/Somaca-Hi-Vis...%2C173&sr=8-37

Remove lower bolts and washers and inject the "bushing in a can" as evenly as you can. Allow to dry/cure for 24 hrs. Can't beat the price and the x5 feels good as new. 1 can did 2 bushings, 2 cans are needed for all four bushings.

Anybody else have try this solution?

-k

[andrewwynn]

I've been considering this for a while. I've seen it used for front bushings. The main issue with this fix is It wil be a lot firmer than design and will be a beast to remove if you decide to do a proper replace later (though heat may work to release)


I would use the 3m brand. Not sure how long it would take to actually cure. It cures from water vapor in the air so it may never cure in the center (but you get a hydraulic damped bushing if that happens I guess)

[kablammo]

With the proper removal tools I don't see how this will be any harder to remove than when they are broken/shot.

I welcome the more solid feel as the rear end feels a lot more stable and planted. Did Powerflex 'purple' for the front control arm bushings and would do the same if I ever need to go back and re-repair the rear bushings in a can fix

[andrewwynn]

Harder because it's adhesive the bushing is made outside the subframe and pressed in. It will be many times more difficult to remove unless it releases from heat.

I've been wanting to do this for my car I was planning to drill a hole in the side of the subframe cylinder to inject the goo.


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[oldskewel]

Nice idea. I have yet to notice a need for new sub-frame bushings on my '01 with 190k+ miles. But I'll definitely keep this in mind.

I won't be worried about any difficulty in re-doing the job at 400k miles.

BTW, I used a similar item for a similar repair. On that same page is listed 3M Windo Weld
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000FW61EW..._t2_B001G0R1N2

It seems to me that at least one of the Ms in 3M is for magic, so I'd pay the higher price and use that stuff. I've always been amazed at most 3M products.

I used that, following tips on the Porsche rennlist.com Cayenne site to fix a failing bushing in the engine torque arm (common problem on those cars). Worked perfectly. So well that I had been hoping to come across another need for the remaining 90% of the 10-oz tube before it solidifies.

[wpoll]

Originally Posted by andrewwynn

Harder because it's adhesive the bushing is made outside the subframe and pressed in. It will be many times more difficult to remove unless it releases from heat.

I've been wanting to do this for my car I was planning to drill a hole in the side of the subframe cylinder to inject the goo.


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Andrew - I think the OP means leave the old bushing in place and just fill the gaps with this urethane product... so removing it later is no harder than a normal bush.

[andrewwynn]

The bushing is the shape of a + I thought but maybe you are right and its solid around the edges in which case it might actually be easier to remove since you'll have glued the center to the outside.


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[wpoll]

Originally Posted by andrewwynn

The bushing is the shape of a + I thought but maybe you are right and its solid around the edges in which case it might actually be easier to remove since you'll have glued the center to the outside.


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There is a + shape in the center but yeah, the outer is a ring of rubber-covered steel tube! I just changed all mine a couple of week back - they are nuggety!!!

[andrewwynn]

Glad you mentioned simce I was going to inject mine from the side.

[wpoll]

To be honest, getting at these bushes in order to inject something is almost as much work as replacing them.... You are 95% of the way there...

The major difference is cost - the cost of the new bushes and the cost of the removal/installation tool. I guess your labour is cheap though!