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  #11  
Old 09-09-2019, 09:55 AM
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Originally Posted by wpoll View Post
You still can't see easily the crank on the V8 - while the pan is split (upper and lower) the upper pan is mostly similar to the pan on th I6 in the is blocks access to the bottom end and has the front axle running thought it....

But you can easily pull the lower pan to check for debris, foreign objects etc.

I pulled the oil pan over the weekend. There was a lot of slush but no copper / metal particles. Also the oil pump pipe was mostly clogged with gunk which I cleaned up thoroughly. There were a couple of very small plastic pieces in it which I suspect is from the timing chain guides which I may look into later.



Meanwhile, I still have that darn tick. Not sure what else to look at at this point.



Thanks for all your help / opinions..


Ozzie
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  #12  
Old 09-09-2019, 02:05 PM
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Originally Posted by turquise1 View Post
I pulled the oil pan over the weekend. There was a lot of slush but no copper / metal particles. Also the oil pump pipe was mostly clogged with gunk which I cleaned up thoroughly. There were a couple of very small plastic pieces in it which I suspect is from the timing chain guides which I may look into later.



Meanwhile, I still have that darn tick. Not sure what else to look at at this point.



Thanks for all your help / opinions..


Ozzie
I think you found your source of the tick, you need to replace the timing guides.
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  #13  
Old 09-09-2019, 02:59 PM
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Originally Posted by upallnight View Post
I think you found your source of the tick, you need to replace the timing guides.

I thought about that but pieces very little and wouldn't a chain guide noise have higher frequency rather than low frequency ticking?


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  #14  
Old 09-09-2019, 04:23 PM
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https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=KARCCIHJidw
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  #15  
Old 09-09-2019, 06:58 PM
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Originally Posted by upallnight View Post

Thank you for the link. It certainly has great info. I may have to go towards that direction but the biggest plastic piece I found was 1 x 2mm which came out of the oil pump pipe. Would there be a way to look in there without opening it up completely? Maybe a borescope thru the oil cap?


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  #16  
Old 09-09-2019, 10:13 PM
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The fact that you found plastic in the oil pan is already definitive proof that the chain guides are failing. Even if you don't think that is the source of noise it is still something that has to be addressed SOONER and not LATER.
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Old 09-09-2019, 11:19 PM
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Boroscope through the oil cap is exactly how to look at the chain guides. You can see the main pressure guide right inside the hole.

If you only have tiny pieces my question is: have you replaced the main tensioner and part b did you use OEM?

My research shows lack of replacing the tensioner is the primary cause of chain guides fail on M62.

A buddy of mine's M62 sounded a lot like yours my advice was to drive a different car and order OEM chain tensioner immediately.

He installed the new one and heard the diesel sounding chain clank for about 7 seconds until oil pressure built up in the tensioner and now it sounds new. No clank no diesel knock sound.


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  #18  
Old 09-10-2019, 08:13 AM
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Originally Posted by upallnight View Post
The fact that you found plastic in the oil pan is already definitive proof that the chain guides are failing. Even if you don't think that is the source of noise it is still something that has to be addressed SOONER and not LATER.

I totally agree with you on that. Car is at 200k+ and it will have to be addressed eventually but I guess I am trying to avoid lengthy repairs right now..


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  #19  
Old 09-10-2019, 08:18 AM
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Originally Posted by andrewwynn View Post
Boroscope through the oil cap is exactly how to look at the chain guides. You can see the main pressure guide right inside the hole.

If you only have tiny pieces my question is: have you replaced the main tensioner and part b did you use OEM?

My research shows lack of replacing the tensioner is the primary cause of chain guides fail on M62.

A buddy of mine's M62 sounded a lot like yours my advice was to drive a different car and order OEM chain tensioner immediately.

He installed the new one and heard the diesel sounding chain clank for about 7 seconds until oil pressure built up in the tensioner and now it sounds new. No clank no diesel knock sound.

I did indeed. I replaced the old one with the new redesigned one some time ago although I am not so sure if it were the OEM but very likely it is. Would the OEM make a big difference?


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  #20  
Old 09-12-2019, 11:49 AM
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The chain tensioner is an exceedingly important part to the survival of the chain guides and I wouldn't trust non OEM at all. OEM will cost 2-4x as much as knock off about $60 I think.

The prob with knock off is it won't hold the oil pressure so won't hold the chain as tight so the chain will slap. The slap is what kills the guides.

If you only have tiny bits I would use boroscope to determine where it came from. I think you might gain access from the vanos solinoid hole or can sensor hole to get a good look at things without removing the valve covers.

When the guides catastrophically fail it will sound like somebody poured gravel in the engine and if you cut the power soon enough the chain won't break and you can replace the guides so causing significant damage.

When the tensioner is replaced regularly you can typically get over 200,000 miles on the V8. Don't change and for sure by 160,000 you'll be doing chain guide job.

If I had the V8 and was making that sound I would replace the tensioner with OEM regardless of how old or what brand is currently in there.

If the sound goes away at higher RPM I think the problem is oil pressure related.

Either not enough oil pressure in the crank area or not enough pressure inside the tensioner.

If you found bits of chain guide that weighs the odds heavily in favor of tensioner is the problem, else I would suspect the oil pump is not providing adequate pressure at low RPM.
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