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  #21  
Old 09-12-2019, 04:35 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by andrewwynn View Post
The chain tensioner is an exceedingly important part to the survival of the chain guides and I wouldn't trust non OEM at all. OEM will cost 2-4x as much as knock off about $60 I think.

The prob with knock off is it won't hold the oil pressure so won't hold the chain as tight so the chain will slap. The slap is what kills the guides.

If you only have tiny bits I would use boroscope to determine where it came from. I think you might gain access from the vanos solinoid hole or can sensor hole to get a good look at things without removing the valve covers.

When the guides catastrophically fail it will sound like somebody poured gravel in the engine and if you cut the power soon enough the chain won't break and you can replace the guides so causing significant damage.

When the tensioner is replaced regularly you can typically get over 200,000 miles on the V8. Don't change and for sure by 160,000 you'll be doing chain guide job.

If I had the V8 and was making that sound I would replace the tensioner with OEM regardless of how old or what brand is currently in there.

If the sound goes away at higher RPM I think the problem is oil pressure related.

Either not enough oil pressure in the crank area or not enough pressure inside the tensioner.

If you found bits of chain guide that weighs the odds heavily in favor of tensioner is the problem, else I would suspect the oil pump is not providing adequate pressure at low RPM.

I am almost positive I bought an updated OEM. I think I paid around $90 for it. I have found a very tiny piece of rail (1mm x 2mm, I think it was a corner) and a lot of gunk and maybe some gasket material blocking the oil pump pipe screen which I cleaned thoroughly.



Right now, I only have that tick (and some vanos noise) which seems to be quiet at idle, gets louder a little when I rev and disappear after 1500-2000 rpm. I just got a oil pressure tester and a boroscope to check things. If I see low oil pressure, I may take the pan down again and apparently there is a check valve that may affect the pump's performance?


Once again I appreciate all the help,


Cheers,


Ozzie
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  #22  
Old 09-12-2019, 05:26 PM
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What the heck is this noise?

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Old 09-12-2019, 09:10 PM
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Done oil pressure test today and it was first at 20 psi and settled around 15 psi on idle and went up to 50 - 60 psi at 3000 rpm.


I am guessing those numbers are normal?


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Old 09-15-2019, 02:45 PM
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What's interesting is, the ticking does not start immediately. The engine is very quiet after the cold start for a minute or so. After that the ticking slowly becomes loud.


Should I go back to the lifters and replace them with new ones? Last time I simply cleaned them up and put back in..


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Old 09-15-2019, 06:48 PM
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With a stick stethoscope can you lock into a cylinder?

Also the not when cold is almost certainly because the oil is thicker at start


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Old 09-15-2019, 09:19 PM
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With a stick stethoscope can you lock into a cylinder?

Also the not when cold is almost certainly because the oil is thicker at start

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I listened all around the engine with a stethoscope and I thought it was actually coming from the injectors. It even seems to spread towards the bottom of the engine. That is why some thought it'd be rod knocking but it does not have that metal sound of the knock and I already did the cylinder testing (pulling each coil) to eliminate that and I am guessing a rod knock could still be heard when engine is cold..



I am trying to put the boroscope camera thru the oil cap to see if I can see anything but I could not succeed on that yet..


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Old 09-16-2019, 12:14 AM
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What the heck is this noise?

I'm wondering if you can also get a boroscope though either the cam position sensors or the vanos solinoid port.

On the M62 you can check out quite a lot with a boroscope through the oil fill hole (also known as the oil ejection port if your run the engine with the cap off)

Check your chain tension through the oil fill port using something like the rubber covered handle of a pliers. If you test right after shut down I suspect it should be stupid tight. I don't know how long it takes for the tensioner to loose operating pressure.
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Last edited by andrewwynn; 09-16-2019 at 07:03 AM.
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Old 09-18-2019, 09:15 AM
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Here is another theory.


I have been reading BMW actually replaces the cylinder heads (if under warranty, of course) to fix this problem. So, I am guessing the problem is with the heads which lead me to think that the tiny oil ports that go to the lifters etc. may be blocked or not functioning well? The oil pressure will still look good and you can replace the lifters to the new ones but when there is no enough oil supply, the ticking will continue..


If that is the case, how can we clean those ports without pulling the engine apart physically?


Any ideas?


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