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  #11  
Old 07-22-2021, 11:10 PM
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My determination on e53 is the factory cracked the paint on the pipes just about under the driver's left foot on LHD car which allows corrosion take root.

When my pipe sprung a leak, the entire pipe was "made of rust" there wasn't 20% left of the original paint and that's with 180.000 or so miles.
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  #12  
Old 07-23-2021, 05:44 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by andrewwynn View Post
My determination on e53 is the factory cracked the paint on the pipes just about under the driver's left foot on LHD car which allows corrosion take root.

When my pipe sprung a leak, the entire pipe was "made of rust" there wasn't 20% left of the original paint and that's with 180.000 or so miles.
The bending radius on those pipes is too small as there was plenty of space to do it smoother. Also that lowest bend works as a drip edge where all moisture on the pipe flows.
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Old 07-23-2021, 08:40 PM
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Double whammy. That's exactly the problem.
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  #14  
Old 12-21-2021, 04:26 PM
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  #15  
Old 02-12-2022, 07:30 PM
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Bubble Flare Disaster!

With all the expertise here on this thread, I still can't get a decent bubble flare.
Please have a look at the picture below.
I managed to eventually get the damaged tubing out, thinking a bubble flare be a piece of cake; turned out not so.
This is a practice piece shown. I don't know why BMW uses steel tubing that's so tough to flare.
With all my might, I couldn't close the last 1/16" of the tool. Hence the rough backing. How can I close that gap. When against the nut, it seems ok, but I'm not sure it'll hold.
I'm using dedicated OEMTOOLS loaner set that's in a decent condition.
Any advice will be much appreciated.

P.S. I don't really want to use pre-flared tubing because bending it is going to be nightmare for me.
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  #16  
Old 02-12-2022, 09:02 PM
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- It is better if you post as jpeg (instead of pdf), this way people don't have to download and open the pdf. You can use basic Windows program Paint to edit your photos.

- Re tool: if I ever do this job again (hope not), I'd use a dedicated tool such as the tool I posted in post #8.
It has a longer section to "bite" better on the pipe, so it does not slip. The generic tool does not have enough length, thus the sliding during making flare. the standard tool works for Ni-Cu pipe bc the force needed to make the flare is less than steel pipe. For steel pipe, definitely use the dedicated tool.
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Old 02-12-2022, 11:33 PM
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Thanks for your guidance.
I did use a dedicated tool. As I mentioned, I used a dedicated bubble flare tool as seen in the picture attached here. Is this what you're talking about?
The last 1/16" just would not budge. What other options are there for cases like this.
Thanks,
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  #18  
Old 02-13-2022, 12:03 AM
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Flaring old steel lines on the car is a challenge with the tool you have which looks like a rental set and which may have been used several times ...Here are some pointers

1. Practice on a piece of scrap steel tubing if you can (as you have been)
2. Scrap off any coating on the steel line first.
3. Use a wrench or a screwdriver sideways to get extra leverage to crank the wing nuts down as hard as you can get them.
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Old 02-13-2022, 06:01 AM
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When talking about non-professional tools this type works better. It has more steady gripping force on the pipe. Also remember to use some grease on the flaring nut. I've used similar tool on original steel pipe and force is needed but the result is good. No need to remove the coating from the steel pipe.

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Last edited by Clavurion; 02-13-2022 at 06:07 AM.
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  #20  
Old 02-13-2022, 10:43 AM
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I bought a tool similar to the one you are using hurt it was unusable until I sanded down the mating surfaces and cleaned up the threaded parts.

Lubrication is needed on the flare surface when doing steel but I was able to make fine flares on steel even though I didn't need to I replaced both of the rear main lines.

Did you buy steel line or are you trying to splice into factory line (I do not recommend).
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