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#11
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When my pipe sprung a leak, the entire pipe was "made of rust" there wasn't 20% left of the original paint and that's with 180.000 or so miles.
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2011 E70 • N55 (me) 2012 E70 • N63 (wife) |
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#12
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Quote:
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E39 530dA -02 M-Sport Messing metallic E53 X5 3.0dA -06 Sport Stratus grey |
#13
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Double whammy. That's exactly the problem.
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2011 E70 • N55 (me) 2012 E70 • N63 (wife) |
#14
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bump
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2005 X5 4.8IS The Blue ones are always FASTER.... Current Garage: 2005 X5 4.8is 2002 M5 TiSilver 2003 525iT 1998 528i Former Garage Stable Highlights 2004 325XiT Sport 1973 De Tomaso Pantera, L Model 1970 Dodge Challenger T/A 4 sp Alpine White 1970 Dodge Challenger T/A 4 sp GoManGo Green 1971 Dart Sport, “Dart Light” package 1969 Road Runner 383 1968 Ply Barracuda 340S FB Sea-foam Green |
#15
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Bubble Flare Disaster!
With all the expertise here on this thread, I still can't get a decent bubble flare.
Please have a look at the picture below. I managed to eventually get the damaged tubing out, thinking a bubble flare be a piece of cake; turned out not so. This is a practice piece shown. I don't know why BMW uses steel tubing that's so tough to flare. With all my might, I couldn't close the last 1/16" of the tool. Hence the rough backing. How can I close that gap. When against the nut, it seems ok, but I'm not sure it'll hold. I'm using dedicated OEMTOOLS loaner set that's in a decent condition. Any advice will be much appreciated. P.S. I don't really want to use pre-flared tubing because bending it is going to be nightmare for me. |
#16
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- It is better if you post as jpeg (instead of pdf), this way people don't have to download and open the pdf. You can use basic Windows program Paint to edit your photos.
- Re tool: if I ever do this job again (hope not), I'd use a dedicated tool such as the tool I posted in post #8. It has a longer section to "bite" better on the pipe, so it does not slip. The generic tool does not have enough length, thus the sliding during making flare. the standard tool works for Ni-Cu pipe bc the force needed to make the flare is less than steel pipe. For steel pipe, definitely use the dedicated tool.
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1998 E39 528i 5sp MT 2006 E53 X5 3.0 6sp MT |
#17
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Thanks for your guidance.
I did use a dedicated tool. As I mentioned, I used a dedicated bubble flare tool as seen in the picture attached here. Is this what you're talking about? The last 1/16" just would not budge. What other options are there for cases like this. Thanks, |
#18
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Flaring old steel lines on the car is a challenge with the tool you have which looks like a rental set and which may have been used several times ...Here are some pointers
1. Practice on a piece of scrap steel tubing if you can (as you have been) 2. Scrap off any coating on the steel line first. 3. Use a wrench or a screwdriver sideways to get extra leverage to crank the wing nuts down as hard as you can get them. |
#19
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When talking about non-professional tools this type works better. It has more steady gripping force on the pipe. Also remember to use some grease on the flaring nut. I've used similar tool on original steel pipe and force is needed but the result is good. No need to remove the coating from the steel pipe.
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E39 530dA -02 M-Sport Messing metallic E53 X5 3.0dA -06 Sport Stratus grey Last edited by Clavurion; 02-13-2022 at 06:07 AM. |
#20
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I bought a tool similar to the one you are using hurt it was unusable until I sanded down the mating surfaces and cleaned up the threaded parts.
Lubrication is needed on the flare surface when doing steel but I was able to make fine flares on steel even though I didn't need to I replaced both of the rear main lines. Did you buy steel line or are you trying to splice into factory line (I do not recommend).
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2011 E70 • N55 (me) 2012 E70 • N63 (wife) |
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