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  #1  
Old 10-23-2019, 04:22 PM
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How to compress Lemfoerder Rear Control Arm Bushings???

I removed the rear lower control arm from my E53 (2006).

I took it to a shop Saturday and they couldn't get the old bushings out.

I took it to another shop on Monday and they removed one bushing but couldn't get their tools to compress the new bushing to install it.

I took it to Bimmertech, a local BMW specialist that said they could do it and they told me that for some reason they can't compress these bushings.

I'm taking it to another BMW specialist tomorrow. $135 to do it. I'm hoping they don't have the same issue.

What on Earth makes these Lemfoerder bushings so hard to compress and install? I read a write up where somebody used 2" Hose Clamps to compress new bushings. Do I need a different brand? Hose Clamps won't do squat for these.

I'm at my wits end. I don't want to go Polyurethane and the car has been down for a week now.
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Old 10-23-2019, 08:30 PM
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These things, right?
https://www.fcpeuro.com/products/bmw...ng-33321095287

If you did not actually try the hose clamps, I'd go ahead and give it a try. It just needs to compress a little to get it to fit, on one end. Maybe more than one hose clamp if needed.
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  #3  
Old 10-23-2019, 08:35 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by oldskewel View Post
These things, right?
https://www.fcpeuro.com/products/bmw...ng-33321095287

If you did not actually try the hose clamps, I'd go ahead and give it a try. It just needs to compress a little to get it to fit, on one end. Maybe more than one hose clamp if needed.
I've got a pair of T-bolt stainless clamps coming from Amazon tomorrow so I'll give it a try myself.

I also have a pair of Polyurethane bushings coming as a backup plan, but my experience with Camaros and Mustangs tells me I'd prefer rubber bushings for ride quality reasons.
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Old 10-23-2019, 09:50 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by oldskewel View Post
These things, right?
https://www.fcpeuro.com/products/bmw...ng-33321095287

If you did not actually try the hose clamps, I'd go ahead and give it a try. It just needs to compress a little to get it to fit, on one end. Maybe more than one hose clamp if needed.
Yep, hose clamps. The machine shop I took mine to to press them in used two hose clamps to compress the bushing, then pressed them in.
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  #5  
Old 10-24-2019, 11:01 AM
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Does anyone happen to know which AutoZone tool would be the right one to press these things in? I saw mention of an SIR 3027 Bushing adapter and forged C Clamp, supposedly rentable at AutoZone and OReilly.

I see a few options but no way to tell what adapters are included.

Is this the one?

https://www.autozone.com/loan-a-tool...ece/449947_0_0

It's the only thing I see with a variety of adapter options...
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Old 10-24-2019, 12:51 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mike1261 View Post
Does anyone happen to know which AutoZone tool would be the right one to press these things in? I saw mention of an SIR 3027 Bushing adapter and forged C Clamp, supposedly rentable at AutoZone and OReilly.

I see a few options but no way to tell what adapters are included.

Is this the one?

https://www.autozone.com/loan-a-tool...ece/449947_0_0

It's the only thing I see with a variety of adapter options...
Not sure that will work. From what I recall most of the guys that DIY'd these used a Harbor Freight 12 ton press. Not sure that C clamp press will develop enough force without stripping the bolt.
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  #7  
Old 10-25-2019, 09:33 PM
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Update: I took the bushings and control arm to RevMaster Machine Shop in Orlando FL.

They pressed out the bushing that the other shop wasn't able to press out.

They made a tapered sleeve, then pressed in the Lemforder bushings nicely.

Done in an hour. They were the 4th shop I tried in town and while they admitted they were a PITA, they didn't have any significant trouble getting it done for me.

I'll re-assemble tomorrow and get an alignment on Monday.

The eccentric bolt was seized inside the bushing itself. I had to remove it by buying a heavy duty blade for the Sawzall and slicing both ends of the bolt off alongside the bushing between the control arm and the frame.

The fact that the bolt was seized inside the bushing makes me believe we were operating with a "Dynamic Alignment," as I have termed it. As the swing arm goes up/down, the eccentric bolt would also be rotating and making the car toe in/out over every bump.

Last time I ever buy a Northeastern car (this one being Canadian). I was going to replace the bushings on the driver side too. After my 800 ft-lb impact gun couldn't break the lower shock bolt loose I said F-it, it's visually fine and I don't have time for a rabbit hole. I checked the eccentric bolt and it rotates freely so at least it can be aligned properly. I have a new eccentric bolt for both sides, so I'll probably replace the bolt on that side just because.
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  #8  
Old 10-26-2019, 10:31 AM
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One trick I used in the past is to throw either an interference fit bearing or bushing or seal in the freezer, leave it overnight and try installing the next day. Sometime the cold will be just enough to contract everything.
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