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Old 10-30-2019, 02:49 PM
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Vapor Barrier- Repair or Replace?

Has anyone successfully repaired a torn vapor barrier? My quick review of other threads haven't made mention of a repair to the foam panel.



When I replaced the DHC in my LR door, the barrier was fine, I simply used a heat gun to revive the adhesive. I find that a previous surgery on the RR door was less than delicate, and the barrier has been ripped in 2 places. I'd rather fix what I have if practical.


Thanks!!
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Old 10-30-2019, 02:57 PM
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Gorilla tape does a fine job of hemming a torn vapor barrier. Aluminum duct taped would as well.

As mentioned above heat in the form of a torch or heat gun will reactivate the original sealant to glue the VB back on. I saw through the glue with a break away razor knife extended a few inches. It leaves some adhesive both sides then I hit both sides with a micro torch to make gooey before re attachment


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Old 10-30-2019, 03:27 PM
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Thanks! I'll give the Gorilla tape a try.



Annoying to find that the high end shop that were the only prior ones to work on the door ripped it up like they did. It's not that hard to separate it from the adhesive.
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Old 10-31-2019, 09:02 AM
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The barrier sealant/sound deadners are expensive but if yours are way too torn up, just replace them. It will be easier in the long run. If you are dealing with a few tears, add a little sealant to that area.
https://images-na.ssl-images-amazon....1vLz3YrEZL.jpg
Some panels get this weird greasy film on the sealant contact areas that will not clean off. The only way to make the 3m sealant roll adhere is to replace the whole panel.
Some posters even make clear plastic sheet panels as replacements but now they have to deal with the noise that comes from removing the barrier. Might as well as use a coat hanger to resolve the door handle carrier at the same time....
Cheap but way too ghetto
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Last edited by StephenVA; 10-31-2019 at 09:12 AM.
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Old 10-31-2019, 07:49 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ChiefRider View Post
Thanks! I'll give the Gorilla tape a try.



Annoying to find that the high end shop that were the only prior ones to work on the door ripped it up like they did. It's not that hard to separate it from the adhesive.

They tried to peel it away like the manual suggests but that probably only works for the first 5-8 years after which the adhesive is stronger than the foam so It must be cut.

I tore the first one I worked on trying to peel carefully until I realized how easy to saw through with a razor knife extended a few inches
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Old 10-31-2019, 10:37 PM
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If you are concerned about cost, then I guess you can use the clear plastic vapor barrier Home depot hardware sells for people to put down in the basement before pouring concrete.

This plastic lining is thick. Just cut to the same size and make your own holes etc.
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Old 10-31-2019, 10:40 PM
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Somebody posted some very similar foam vapor barrier foam sheet. Also: you can layer. Put a simple plastic sheet over the foam to keep the sound deadening of the foam and vapor barrier of the plastic.


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Old 10-31-2019, 10:56 PM
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Some cars come from factory with plastic sheet.
Here is the 1987-1993 Mustang Vapor Barrier:


https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-IO06H4wm-k
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Old 11-01-2019, 10:26 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cn90 View Post
Some cars come from factory with plastic sheet.
Here is the 1987-1993 Mustang Vapor Barrier:


https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-IO06H4wm-k
Can confirm early 2000's SN95b chassis Mustangs also came with plastic sheets as vapor barriers.
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