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  #51  
Old 12-05-2019, 03:44 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by haigha View Post
… I also did a scan with my DME and got the following fault codes:

28D7
Not present
DME: Communication with Alternator


27DA
Present
DME: Alternator fault
...
Kinda removes all doubt - there is no connection to the alternator - has to be either the plug on the back or the brushes did not seat properly when the "clicked" down. :-(
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  #52  
Old 12-05-2019, 04:04 PM
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If the plug isn't solidly connected could be the problem. If that connector is solid you have to take out the alternator and confirm the brushes seated then I would for sure bench test before reinstalling. The bench tester knows how to jump start the VR to self sustain.
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  #53  
Old 12-05-2019, 04:07 PM
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To be clear the small control connector is the one of concern.

12v will not hurt you through your skin on your hand you don't need to use a wooden stick to test connections.

I would pull off and re plug the control plug in case it didn't seat. Very good chance that's the only problem.
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  #54  
Old 12-05-2019, 05:59 PM
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The main reason the yard stick occurred to me was it was long enough to reach the plug, about 2.5 feet in, and has a flat edge that fits nicely on the groove on the back of the plug.

I don't think I have a tool that could pull off the plug from the top of the engine. My extended needle-noses are only about 18 inches. Plus I'd worry about doing further damage to the plug.

I'm guessing it's the brushes. I'm kicking myself for not stopping after extracting the alternator and replacing the VR. Then having it tested today, before reinstalling it.

I'm going to slowly tackle taking the alternator out on my own. As you guys have likely surmised, I'm new to a lot a of this.

I ordered some electrical contact cleaner that's arriving Monday.

My mechanic friend is great, but he's suffering from a dental issue that is causing pain. Hopefully, he'll get that resolved next week. He was generous coming over and helping me yesterday, but I don't want to lean to hard on him right now.

I appreciate all the help!
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  #55  
Old 12-05-2019, 06:09 PM
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Trans Prog Failsafe when cool outside. Battery? VR? Alternator?

I missed the memo of which motor.

On the m54 I just removed the alternator yesterday and I had no problem unplugging the connector from the alternator.

I did remove the air box and the fan/shroud and then finally disconnected the aux cooling pump which was exactly in the way of removing the alternator
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Last edited by andrewwynn; 12-05-2019 at 08:34 PM.
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  #56  
Old 12-06-2019, 10:50 PM
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No worries, Andrew. I probably should have put N62 in the title.

A busy day today, so I didn't work on removing the alternator.

Some good news: I got the four piece GearWrench flex head set I mentioned on the Black Friday thread and Amazon sent me the 120-tooth version instead of the 84. That will come in handy for this job! I also got some low profile 3/8 impact sockets.

I didn't mention that when I took of the lower front shield, along with the broken retaining clip from the B+ plug, I found a lost clip from the air filter housing. At least five hundred miles since it dropped down! It's the back right one and is a pain to get off. After losing two, I tied the current one with an extension string-pull that came with one of my LED shop lights. I hooked the string to a post by the washer fluid reservoir. The clips were around $6 each on FCP Euro!
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  #57  
Old 12-08-2019, 12:35 PM
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I disassembled to the point where I need to pull out the alternator yesterday. Easier the second time. The 120-tooth ratchets helped. I spent about half an hour trying to wrestle out the alternator without success. My friend, who is fifteen years older and has shorter arms, eventually managed to do it the previous time.

Any tips on getting it out?

It seems that the second (back) post that the long, bottom bolt goes through is hitting against the part of the alternator that sits behind it, and the bolt screws into. This prevents the alternator from sliding out.

In one video I watched, it said to move the alternator up and to the right (while facing the car), but there doesn't seem to be enough room to get it far enough to the right.

Edit: In this image the back part on the bottom right is where the long bolt screws into (rotate it about 90 degrees to get its installation position). My understanding is, immediately in front of that, there is a bracket on the engine that the bolt goes through.



An innovation I came up with, for lots of bright light, is hanging a four-foot shoplight from the hood. I split one of the chains it came with, 9 segments each side, and put the s-hooks on them:
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Last edited by haigha; 12-08-2019 at 01:49 PM.
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  #58  
Old 12-08-2019, 01:44 PM
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Air cooled or water cooled Alternaror? On the M62s I've worked on they were water cooled and very easy to remove.

I always remove the fan and shroud makes it 10x easier to access the front.

When I took wife's alternator out last week I had to remove the bracket that holds the aux water pump and also disconnected the aux water pump to pull it though the space it occupied.

She has the 3.0 so it's quite different but think along the same lines.

Is the power steering hose in the way or the coolant reservoir? Unbolt and move aside etc. Lots of parts are on flexible hoses and can be moved out of the way.
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  #59  
Old 12-08-2019, 04:19 PM
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It's air cooled. I've removed the fan and shroud. I removed belt and the lower pulley that's bolted on to the alternator (T50) (to the third bolt hole on the alternator, in the middle right in the picture in my previous post, near the green dot).

The power steering hose is in the way once it's slid forward, but the main challenge last time was getting it to that point.
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  #60  
Old 12-08-2019, 11:50 PM
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On the 3.0, the alternator comes straight up. Have to move a few things out of the way. I didn't work on V8 with air cooled alternator so I can't think of specific help.
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