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  #41  
Old 11-24-2019, 11:31 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bhennrich View Post
I used a BFH (Big Fu***ng Hammer) for removal as pressing without the BMW specific tool proved to be futile. Absolutely douched everything in PB Blaster then used a torch to heat around the ball joint. Just swing for the fences and they popped out. I used the autozone 23 piece press kit to put the new one in.
I am glad it worked for you, but this scares the hell out of me. pounding out a steel bushing pressed into an alum housing. I bought the tool. Any BMW-style rear ball joint tool with at least one flat side should work.

I bought the CTA tool for $120, but the Bavauto rear bushing tool on ECS also looked good. I bet there are even cheaper options on Ebay
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  #42  
Old 11-24-2019, 11:42 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Effduration View Post
I am glad it worked for you, but this scares the hell out of me. pounding out a steel bushing pressed into an alum housing. I bought the tool. Any BMW-style rear ball joint tool with at least one flat side should work.



I bought the CTA tool for $120, but the Bavauto rear bushing tool on ECS also looked good. I bet there are even cheaper options on Ebay


I agree on the being scared part. But my family has to drive 450 miles tomorrow for seeing family for Thanksgiving. I was out of time. And there is no way I could fit three kids, my wife and myself along with a weeks with of crap in my E36 M3/4/5. I would have been pissed if I broke it but would have just rented something for the week. But I told my wife I would try what I could in the time given. It worked out for me.


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  #43  
Old 11-25-2019, 08:46 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Effduration View Post
I am glad it worked for you, but this scares the hell out of me. pounding out a steel bushing pressed into an alum housing. I bought the tool. Any BMW-style rear ball joint tool with at least one flat side should work.

I bought the CTA tool for $120, but the Bavauto rear bushing tool on ECS also looked good. I bet there are even cheaper options on Ebay
I agree the pounding on the lower side of the ball joint could possibly break the ring of the carrier, not much material there. It scares me too so I think I will go with the tool as well since I will be on the ground in the garage. Eff, can you link the CTA tool you bought? I saw the BavAuto tool on ECS.
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  #44  
Old 11-25-2019, 10:08 AM
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Using the ball joint tool make the job safe and easy. Approx 10 mins a side. I have now done three sets of these ball joint. The tool is simple to use, keeps the new joint square when you pull the new ball joint in, and will not remove any material in the swing arm. Note: Make sure you apply lots of of your favorite WD-40/PB Blaster rust penetration spray on these areas 24 hrs before you start, as many of these ball joints hang in salt spray all winter long year after year including the CA "beach surfer" crowd users.

Using copper anti-seize will makes disassembly easy for any future tasks. Especially true on wheels, rotor to hub, etc where you are into them on a 2-4 times annual bases. Pulling the wheels off and doing a proper cleaning (wash, scrub tires, clay wheel, wax, protection on the inside and out side of the tires will keep your X happy and all shiny...
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Last edited by StephenVA; 11-25-2019 at 02:46 PM.
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  #45  
Old 11-25-2019, 10:34 AM
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Thanks everyone. It looks like it comes down to the BavAuto tool on ECS Tuning for $102 or the CTA tool for $130 because of the needed flat edge for our E53. Any further advise on my choice?

https://www.ecstuning.com/b-bav-auto.../b8800028~bav/

https://www.amazon.com/CTA-Tools-869...all+joint+tool
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  #46  
Old 11-25-2019, 10:48 AM
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Originally Posted by Overboost View Post
Thanks everyone. It looks like it comes down to the BavAuto tool on ECS Tuning for $102 or the CTA tool for $130 because of the needed flat edge for our E53. Any further advise on my choice?
Either will do the job.

THE CTA tool has a bearing built into the center where you crank on the hardened nut to press the bushing in or out. I am not sure the Bavauto tool has it.

At the moment, I have 4 cars with these rear ball joints (2 x5's & 2 E39's). I bought the CTA tool thinking it would more smoothly remove/install and might last longer. It worked great the one time I have used it so far. If you go the CTA route, make sure you get a 26mm deep-ish socket or box end wrench to turn the nut.
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  #47  
Old 11-25-2019, 10:56 AM
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I have the CTA tool and it works perfectly every time.
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2005 X5 4.8IS
The Blue ones are always FASTER....

Current Garage:
2005 X5 4.8is
2002 M5 TiSilver
2003 525iT
1998 528i
Former Garage Stable Highlights
2004 325XiT Sport
1973 De Tomaso Pantera, L Model
1970 Dodge Challenger T/A 4 sp Alpine White
1970 Dodge Challenger T/A 4 sp GoManGo Green
1971 Dart Sport, “Dart Light” package
1969 Road Runner 383
1968 Ply Barracuda 340S FB Sea-foam Green
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  #48  
Old 11-25-2019, 11:00 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by StephenVA View Post

The trick is to unbolt the swing arm which give you lots of room to work. Video: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=tKgNV8Ve7Dg
Not a bad video, but the E39 is a little different. on the X5 the key trick to this job is relieving spring pressure on the wheel carrier. On a car with air suspension you unhook an air hose leading to suspension. On a car with coils, you need to compress the spring with a small spring compressor or a modified bottle jack.

On an X5 rear ball joint, you only need to remove:
1. The long bolt that goes thru the rear ball joint
2. The bolt that holds the integral link at the top
3. the lower strut bolt to give some extra wiggle room.

https://xoutpost.com/bmw-sav-forums/...ng-set-up.html

and check out the other link in that thread for more info.
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  #49  
Old 11-25-2019, 11:10 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Effduration View Post
Either will do the job.

THE CTA tool has a bearing built into the center where you crank on the hardened nut to press the bushing in or out. I am not sure the Bavauto tool has it.

At the moment, I have 4 cars with these rear ball joints (2 x5's & 2 E39's). I bought the CTA tool thinking it would more smoothly remove/install and might last longer. It worked great the one time I have used it so far. If you go the CTA route, make sure you get a 26mm deep-ish socket or box end wrench to turn the nut.
Exactly the information about the bearing in the tool I appreciate. Is it necessary to remove the swing arm or can it be done by lowering the arm enough to get the tool in place? I would assume removing the lower shock bolt as it becomes a droop limiter? I have the ZSP sport suspension with coils not bags.

Last edited by Overboost; 11-25-2019 at 11:20 AM.
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  #50  
Old 11-25-2019, 11:23 AM
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Originally Posted by Overboost View Post
Exactly the information about the bearing in the tool I appreciate. Is it necessary to remove the swing arm or can it be done by lowering the arm enough to get the tool in place?
You do not have to remove the swing arm. If you release spring pressure and unbolt the three bolts I mention above the swing arm will actually slip ABOVE the wheel carrier with the ball joint. You can then remove/reinstall the ball joint from below the swing arm. Levering the swing arm down and back into place took me quite a while. I used a long wooden stake (1-2 inches thick) to lever the swing arm down. I put the lower strut bolt thru the lower strut hole (without strut attached) and used that as a lever point to push the swing arm down.
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