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#41
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I bought the CTA tool for $120, but the Bavauto rear bushing tool on ECS also looked good. I bet there are even cheaper options on Ebay |
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#42
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I agree on the being scared part. But my family has to drive 450 miles tomorrow for seeing family for Thanksgiving. I was out of time. And there is no way I could fit three kids, my wife and myself along with a weeks with of crap in my E36 M3/4/5. I would have been pissed if I broke it but would have just rented something for the week. But I told my wife I would try what I could in the time given. It worked out for me. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
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Vancouver, WA 2005 4.4i (LV12368) on Style 87's in summer and Studded Style 130's in winter. 1997 M3/4/5 (EE05340) W/ Vaders, Hella Xenon's, Chromline, DSII's in Summer, Contours on studless snows in winter. |
#43
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Digital Competition Systems The older I get... The faster I was... No Fear |
#44
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Using the ball joint tool make the job safe and easy. Approx 10 mins a side. I have now done three sets of these ball joint. The tool is simple to use, keeps the new joint square when you pull the new ball joint in, and will not remove any material in the swing arm. Note: Make sure you apply lots of of your favorite WD-40/PB Blaster rust penetration spray on these areas 24 hrs before you start, as many of these ball joints hang in salt spray all winter long year after year including the CA "beach surfer" crowd users.
Using copper anti-seize will makes disassembly easy for any future tasks. Especially true on wheels, rotor to hub, etc where you are into them on a 2-4 times annual bases. Pulling the wheels off and doing a proper cleaning (wash, scrub tires, clay wheel, wax, protection on the inside and out side of the tires will keep your X happy and all shiny...
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2005 X5 4.8IS The Blue ones are always FASTER.... Current Garage: 2005 X5 4.8is 2002 M5 TiSilver 2003 525iT 1998 528i Former Garage Stable Highlights 2004 325XiT Sport 1973 De Tomaso Pantera, L Model 1970 Dodge Challenger T/A 4 sp Alpine White 1970 Dodge Challenger T/A 4 sp GoManGo Green 1971 Dart Sport, “Dart Light” package 1969 Road Runner 383 1968 Ply Barracuda 340S FB Sea-foam Green Last edited by StephenVA; 11-25-2019 at 02:46 PM. |
#45
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Thanks everyone. It looks like it comes down to the BavAuto tool on ECS Tuning for $102 or the CTA tool for $130 because of the needed flat edge for our E53. Any further advise on my choice?
https://www.ecstuning.com/b-bav-auto.../b8800028~bav/ https://www.amazon.com/CTA-Tools-869...all+joint+tool
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Digital Competition Systems The older I get... The faster I was... No Fear |
#46
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THE CTA tool has a bearing built into the center where you crank on the hardened nut to press the bushing in or out. I am not sure the Bavauto tool has it. At the moment, I have 4 cars with these rear ball joints (2 x5's & 2 E39's). I bought the CTA tool thinking it would more smoothly remove/install and might last longer. It worked great the one time I have used it so far. If you go the CTA route, make sure you get a 26mm deep-ish socket or box end wrench to turn the nut. |
#47
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I have the CTA tool and it works perfectly every time.
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2005 X5 4.8IS The Blue ones are always FASTER.... Current Garage: 2005 X5 4.8is 2002 M5 TiSilver 2003 525iT 1998 528i Former Garage Stable Highlights 2004 325XiT Sport 1973 De Tomaso Pantera, L Model 1970 Dodge Challenger T/A 4 sp Alpine White 1970 Dodge Challenger T/A 4 sp GoManGo Green 1971 Dart Sport, “Dart Light” package 1969 Road Runner 383 1968 Ply Barracuda 340S FB Sea-foam Green |
#48
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On an X5 rear ball joint, you only need to remove: 1. The long bolt that goes thru the rear ball joint 2. The bolt that holds the integral link at the top 3. the lower strut bolt to give some extra wiggle room. https://xoutpost.com/bmw-sav-forums/...ng-set-up.html and check out the other link in that thread for more info. |
#49
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Digital Competition Systems The older I get... The faster I was... No Fear Last edited by Overboost; 11-25-2019 at 11:20 AM. |
#50
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You do not have to remove the swing arm. If you release spring pressure and unbolt the three bolts I mention above the swing arm will actually slip ABOVE the wheel carrier with the ball joint. You can then remove/reinstall the ball joint from below the swing arm. Levering the swing arm down and back into place took me quite a while. I used a long wooden stake (1-2 inches thick) to lever the swing arm down. I put the lower strut bolt thru the lower strut hole (without strut attached) and used that as a lever point to push the swing arm down.
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