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Looking at another E53
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Vancouver, WA 2005 4.4i (LV12368) on Style 87's in summer and Studded Style 130's in winter. 1997 M3/4/5 (EE05340) W/ Vaders, Hella Xenon's, Chromline, DSII's in Summer, Contours on studless snows in winter. |
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#2
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Quote:
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Digital Competition Systems The older I get... The faster I was... No Fear |
#3
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Way to much!! Lot's of them out there in that vintage for less. Definitely buyers market.
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Dave S. Northeast 2003 4.6is 2005 E53 4.4 2003 E39 Msport(a REAL ONE!) 1959 Fiat 600 |
#4
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I am not looking for pricing info. I am looking for what may be a common denominator for what would be causing all these electrical problems. I only posted how much they are asking for reference. If anyone has had and solved electrical issues like these can you share what your solution was!
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
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Vancouver, WA 2005 4.4i (LV12368) on Style 87's in summer and Studded Style 130's in winter. 1997 M3/4/5 (EE05340) W/ Vaders, Hella Xenon's, Chromline, DSII's in Summer, Contours on studless snows in winter. |
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Sorry, misunderstood your post. My mind said $6.2k for a 3.0L with electrical problems? Pfffttt. GLWS.
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Digital Competition Systems The older I get... The faster I was... No Fear |
#6
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Way too much info and obviously too much time on my hands
Diy notes
FIRST STEP Test battery with a full charge, (150 amp charger for 15 mins, if you do not have access to a commercial charger then the 15 amp diy one over a 12 hr period) follow up with a 150/ 200 amp load test, as anything below 12 v is 80% drained. This full load test should be 1/2 cold cranking rating of the battery at zero degrees, approx 150-200 amps. As batteries fail, they cause all types of issues.see the multiple posting on diagnostic charging system testing and battery testing. I have posted it approx 15 times now Note two As batteries fail they will absorb all the energy a charging system can provide, but they never hold the charge. When loaded with a carbon pile tester, the voltage just drops to 9.xx volts. You can NOT TEST a charging system with a bad battery in the loop. End of shop class 101 Helpful?
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2005 X5 4.8IS The Blue ones are always FASTER.... Current Garage: 2005 X5 4.8is 2002 M5 TiSilver 2003 525iT 1998 528i Former Garage Stable Highlights 2004 325XiT Sport 1973 De Tomaso Pantera, L Model 1970 Dodge Challenger T/A 4 sp Alpine White 1970 Dodge Challenger T/A 4 sp GoManGo Green 1971 Dart Sport, “Dart Light” package 1969 Road Runner 383 1968 Ply Barracuda 340S FB Sea-foam Green Last edited by StephenVA; 12-04-2019 at 06:15 PM. Reason: fat fingers and added Battery chart |
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After the above tests are completed, take a look in the trunk to make sure it does not have the grave yard water floating around the battery. With all the electronics in there it can be the end of your review.
There multiple possibly causes, maybe a few at the same time. Many owners ignore 1-2-3 issues until the 4th one comes along and now it is time to make the big decision, bite the bullet and have the multiple repairs completed or bail pushing the problems to the next and final owner. The vehicle you are looking at has lower than normal mileage but was un cared for. Why? Lack of driving reasons or something else? On the list of potential causes Ignition switch Bad grounds Wiring harness issues Car was wrecked and never reassembled correctly And on and on Now the last point, offer $5k, AFTER a PPI. That step will save your bacon, if I can still use that term in today's snowflake world. Any competent bmw tech working in a well stocked Indy shop can do this for you
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2005 X5 4.8IS The Blue ones are always FASTER.... Current Garage: 2005 X5 4.8is 2002 M5 TiSilver 2003 525iT 1998 528i Former Garage Stable Highlights 2004 325XiT Sport 1973 De Tomaso Pantera, L Model 1970 Dodge Challenger T/A 4 sp Alpine White 1970 Dodge Challenger T/A 4 sp GoManGo Green 1971 Dart Sport, “Dart Light” package 1969 Road Runner 383 1968 Ply Barracuda 340S FB Sea-foam Green Last edited by StephenVA; 12-04-2019 at 05:09 PM. |
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